In his Guide to the Boyne Valley, Rupert Parker explores a Landscape Populated By Incredible Prehistoric Monuments And Dazzling Fairy Tale Castles.
Ireland is not generally known for its Sauna culture, yet here I am gently perspiring before plunging into the cooling waters of the River Boyne. This is the Boyne Valley, a waterway steeped in myth and legend in a landscape that’s been settled for over 5,000 years.
It’s located in the North East of Ireland just 20 minutes north of Dublin International airport or 90 minutes south of Belfast International airport. Covering all of County Meath and the southern region of County Louth prehistoric tombs are dotted across the landscape, often close to the rivers Boyne and Blackwater. There’s good food here too, bread making classes, beautiful gardens and fairy tale castles
Trim
Trim is a town that wears its medieval past with pride. The centrepiece is Trim Castle, the largest Norman castle in Ireland. Built in the 12th century, it famously doubled as York in Mel Gibson’s Braveheart. The guided tours are excellent, offering access to the keep and insight into Norman military architecture.
Trim is also home to lovely river walks along the Boyne, and the remains of several religious buildings, including St. Mary’s Abbey and Newtown Abbey, add a contemplative touch to the town’s vibrant history. The charming Georgian buildings and bars, restaurants and cafés make it a great spot to rest and refuel.
Hot Box Sauna
Less than 10 km from Trim, on the serene banks of the River Boyne, The Hot Box Sauna at Bective Mill offers a rejuvenating escape that seamlessly blends ancient wellness traditions with the natural beauty of Ireland’s countryside.
With three handcrafted Finnish saunas, visitors can indulge in the soothing warmth before taking a refreshing plunge into the River Boyne. The facility has recently been enlarged, including the addition of a larger hot tub, two cold plunge pools, and expanded changing areas to ensure a comfortable experience for all guests.
Brú na Bóinne
In a bend of the River Boyne in County Meath, lies one of the most remarkable prehistoric landscapes in Europe: Brú na Bóinne, or the “Palace of the Boyne.” This UNESCO World Heritage dates back over 5,000 years and was a centre of ceremony, burial, and ritual during the Neolithic period.
The impressive Visitor Centre is the starting point for all visits to Newgrange and Knowth. Its exhibition delves into the Neolithic people, the megalithic era, and significant events like the solstices. From here shuttle buses ferry visitors to the monuments.
Newgrange
Newgrange is astonishing in its construction. A large, circular mound measuring over 80 meters in diameter and 13 meters high, it is ringed by 97 massive kerbstones, many of which are etched with intricate megalithic art—spirals, lozenges, and chevrons that still defy interpretation.
But the true magic of Newgrange occurs during the winter solstice. For a few days around December 21st, the rising sun pierces the long passage and illuminates the inner chamber in a stunning display of ancient engineering and astronomical alignment.
Entry to the solstice event is determined by lottery, but daily guided tours allow visitors to explore the passage and experience a simulation of the solstice light. Walking into the ancient chamber, surrounded by the cool stone and lingering mysteries of prehistoric time, is an unforgettable experience.
Knowth
Just a short drive from Newgrange, Knowth offers a complementary but distinct insight into Neolithic life. It’s actually a complex of one large mound and 17 smaller satellite tombs. The main mound is similar in size to Newgrange but boasts something truly exceptional: the largest collection of megalithic art in Western Europe.
Over 300 decorated stones have been uncovered at Knowth, bearing an array of abstract motifs and symbolic carvings. Scholars debate the meanings—cosmic maps, calendars, spiritual symbols? Whatever their purpose, the carvings showcase a sophisticated and symbol-rich culture.
Unlike Newgrange, Knowth has two passages, aligned roughly east-west, although neither is as perfectly aligned with solar events. Excavations here have also revealed evidence of Iron Age and early Christian settlement, suggesting that Knowth was revered and reused for millennia. There’s no access inside but you can climb to the top of the mound.
The Loughcrew Cairns
Further west in County Meath, about 40km from Brú na Bóinne, lies another stunning Neolithic site: the Loughcrew Cairns, or Slieve na Calliagh—“Mountain of the Witch.” Here, on a cluster of low hills, dozens of passage tombs are scattered, dating to around 4000 BC, slightly earlier than Newgrange.
No tourist buses here and access is only on a steep path, a walk of around 30 minutes. The setting high in the hills offers panoramic views that deepen the spiritual feeling of the place. Cairn T is the most prominent and on the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rising sun illuminates the inner chamber in a phenomenon remarkably similar to Newgrange.
The Poppy Garden
Close to the Loughcrew Hills in Oldcastle, the Poppy Garden offers visitors a delightful escape into a world of horticultural charm and creativity. Winding paths lead guests through vibrant flower beds, a productive vegetable plot, and a flourishing orchard.
The garden evolves with the seasons, reaching a crescendo of colour and texture in the autumn months. The changing foliage and late-blooming flowers create a dynamic landscape that offers new experiences with each visit. Relax on the patio with a cup of tea or coffee and a slice of homemade cake, taking in the stunning views of the Loughcrew Hills.
Killua Castle
20 km south east, in the heart of County Westmeath, Killua Castle has links to Sir Walter Raleigh and Lawrence of Arabia. The castle, constructed in the 1780s by Sir Benjamin Chapman, lay in ruins for 60 years. In the early 2000s, the Krause family undertook the ambitious project of restoring it. They also filled the grounds with rare breeds of moiled cows, Jacob sheep, Irish Goats and parkland deer.
The rooms house a collection of artwork and artefacts from the Medieval and Early Renaissance periods. Today, the castle seamlessly blends historical architecture with modern sustainability practices, including geothermal heating and regenerative farming. It welcomes visitors every Saturday with guided tours conducted by the owners themselves. You can also stay here and their Twelve Points Restaurant features many ingredients sourced from their farm.
Bread with Benefits
Heading east, on my way back to Dublin Bread with Benefits is a rising-star baker where bread is more than food – it’s a movement, a philosophy, and a gateway to wellness. But what truly sets this place apart is its educational twist. Visitors can join sourdough workshops, gut-health talks, or “dough therapy” sessions that blend baking with mindfulness exercises.
Step into the bakery, and you’re greeted by the warm scent of fermentation and freshly baked crusts. On the counter, wildflower-seeded boules, rye-infused batards, and quirky additions like turmeric-honey spelt loaves sit proudly. Every loaf is made with natural, slow fermentation methods, often using ancient grains and local Irish ingredients – oats, seaweed, wild garlic, and heritage barley, to name a few.
After the workshop, I get to taste the bread and pair it with local cheese, plus a drizzle of raw honey from nearby meadows. It’s as good as it looks and even better, they give me a loaf home to take home. It’s a fitting reminder that I must come back to the Boyne Valley – if only to experience the rays of the rising sun illuminating the inside of Newgrange at winter solstice.
Tell Me More About This Insider Guide To The Boyne Valley
For more information on this Guide to the Boyne Valley, Discover Boyne Valley has more information about the region, including the Boyne Valley Drive.
Ryaair flies from London Stansted to Dublin
The Stansted Express is the fastest way to the airport from central London.
It’s essential to make a reservation at the Hotbox Sauna.
Bread with Benefits runs sourdough classes by appointment.
The Poppy Garden is open May to September, Thursday to Sunday.
Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre is open year round for tours.
Trim Castle Hotel offers 68 elegant bedrooms and good food.
Dunboyne Castle Hotel & Spa is in spacious grounds, with extensive spa facilities.
Killua Castle has a handful of rooms.
Stonewall Coffee in Trim does a great brunch.
The Navy Bettystown is a new café in the seaside village of Bettystown.
Twelve Points Restaurant in Killua Castle serves sustainable farm to table dishes.
