Steak And Lobster Restaurant. Tranquil Surf And Turf In The Radisson Blu London Excellent Surf And Turf.

Rupert Parker eats at the Steak and Lobster Restaurant and Finds Tranquil Surf And Turf Just Off Oxford Street.

On a balmy spring Saturday evening, Oxford Street is still full of shoppers, overloaded with bags containing their recent purchases. Yet just a minute’s away, all is tranquillity at the Radisson Blu Hotel, discretely occupying a row of restored Victorian town houses. It’s so completely hidden that my companion is fashionably delayed because her iPhone sends her the wrong way

We’re here for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, the Steak and Lobster, a Radisson dining concept with other locations in Warren Street and Heathrow. The menu is refreshingly straightforward. As the name suggests, the focus is unapologetically on surf and turf – think ribeye steak grilled to perfection and freshly caught lobster, chargrilled.

The restaurant is on the ground floor of the hotel, a pleasantly intimate space with a bar occupying one wall. The décor is contemporary chic, with warm ceiling lighting mixing with daylight coming in through the large windows. Tables are well spaced, the welcome is warm and service is brisk and attentive.

We opt for the set menu, three courses for £46 with an £8 supplement if you go for the lobster. Of course, that’s one of the main reasons for being here, as what’s on offer is unapologetically surf and turf. For refreshment, a glass of Gamay and a no-alcohol Tom Collins are a good way to get us going.

Even the starters offer surf and turf – I go for a classic Prawn Cocktail, piled high in a thin stemmed glass. There’s a subtle hint of spice and the Marie Rose sauce is delicate without being gloopy. The shrimp sit on a mixture of thin strips of little gem and sliced cherry tomatoes making a satisfying whole.

My companion opts for Smoked Beef Croquettes. Sausage shaped, coming as a trio, the pulled beef inside makes for hearty bites. A dip of lime and crème fraiche is a suitably refreshing foil for the earthy flavours. Other starters include Burrata with Pickled Beetroot and Hazelnuts and Lobster Chowder with Olive Tapenade and Chervil Oil.

So to the main event. I enquire whether the lobster is fresh or frozen and they tell me that it arrived waving its claws. That’s good enough for me and indeed when it lands on my plate there’s further evidence. The flesh lifts easily away from the shell, a sign that it hasn’t seen the freezer, and it’s juicy, not dry. Even better it’s a good size, subtly dressed with parsley butter, with sides of crispy fries and grilled sweetcorn.

My partner goes for the Ribeye Steak with sides of grilled lettuce, sweetcorn, onion rings and chunky fries. The meat is beautifully seared, juicy and tender – cooked exactly as she likes it, with parsley butter melting on top. And, in fact, we end up sharing each other’s plates, mixing the meat and fish to make a DIY turf and surf combination. A bowl of stem broccoli and spinach, tossed with garlic oil, is a welcome portion of veg.

Desserts are a choice of The Mason Jar, Honeycomb, Chocolate Fudge Brownie, Vanilla Ice Cream and Toffee Caramel Sauce, Keylime Cheesecake and

Orange Truffle Liquid Strawberry Delight with Vanilla Ice Cream. Agreeing to skip the Mason Jar, the cheesecake is a compact cylinder of limey mousse on a crispy base, not too sweet. It’s topped with thin sugary discs delivering an extra boost of citrus.

It’s very good but the star of the show is the strawberry delight. Fresh strawberries sit on top of chocolate sponge with strawberry ripple inside. It spurts red streams of fruit as you dig your spoon into it. And there’s also very good ice cream on the side.

If you’re looking for a no-fuss, high quality steak or lobster meal in central London, this spot hits the mark. Given the location, pricing is fair as the portions are substantial and ingredients are top notch. Even better, it’s an oasis of tranquillity just a stone’s throw from the madness of Oxford Street.