Andy Mossack reviews Rayuela, an Iberian feast of flavour.
Dickens Yard may well be a little-known pedestrian precinct in leafy Ealing, yet Rayuela has had no trouble being discovered by its adoring local fraternity. Its brand of delicious Spanish fare has attained almost legendary status in a neighbourhood rampant with restaurant options.
Perhaps this personal love affair blossomed during Covid. Owners Miguel Morales, wife Anastasiia and food and drinks supplier Pedro Cubino had just decided to go into business together with an organic Spanish restaurant when lockdown hit. So instead, Reineta was born in the community kitchen of the local church producing delicious organic Spanish-inspired take-away dinners.
The concept proved so popular with the locals that once lockdown lifted, they looked for a permanent home, found a place but it had no kitchen. So they opened a restaurant two doors down called Rayuela while Reineta became a bodega and supplier of quality organic Spanish products, including an impressive meat cooler with hanging joints and Iberica hams. Rayuela’s kitchen serves both businesses, and though Reinata offers informal wines and tapas, it’s Rayuela that takes the plaudits with two AA rosettes for its imaginative Spanish cooking with a twist of South America courtesy of head chef Andres Sanabria Quevedo.
We chose a warm night to visit, and channelling our inner Spanish we took an outside table. Perhaps it was serendipity, but I was feeling the continental vibe. Ealing’s hipsters were passing by our table and I swear a couple gave me a knowing look as if to say,’ oh you found our little place eh?’
Apparently, Rayuela translates as hopscotch and it’s immediately evident this points to the menu style which lets you hop from one course to another as you please. Numbers in circles from 2-5 (1 is cocktails) denote course type, so 2 is small plates, 3 is starters, 4 is mains, 5 is sides and 6 is dessert. And it’s a menu entirely at the mercy of seasonal product availability.
So with a couple of very tasty cocktails under our belts, we kicked off with some small plates from number 2. Who doesn’t like croquetas. These traditional Spanish snacks can sometimes turn out to be a little disappointing, but Rayuela’s Croquetas del Dia (£6) were divine. Handmade mushroom and bechamel balls encased in crunchy Japanese panko breadcrumbs.
They were swiftly followed by a full plate of freshly sliced 100% Jamón ibérico (£18) accompanied by some traditional dainty bread sticks. A dash of olive oil was all that was needed to top off an intense flavour bomb. Of course, an unexpected delivery of salted black charcoal sourdough bread and olive oil was also gratefully accepted.
Now we were into a couple of starter dishes from the 3-circle complemented with a deliciously chilled glass of Rias Baixas Albarino white. First up was calamares frito (£14) with a side of homemade aioli and a slice of lime. Fresh, lightly fried and hot. And utterly delicious. Then a very un-Spanish-like bowl of Isle of Wight tomato salad (£16) with a fresh garlic dressing, green chillies, basil and crispy leeks. Nevertheless, this minor departure from the Iberian peninsular was warmly received as the Isle of Wight has become something of a tomato destination and it was justifiably delightful.
By now the evening was turning darker but the balmy warmth remained. This was becoming more continental with each passing minute.
Our mains were both fish and meat. The Pescado del Dia was a fabulously flaky slice of sea bream (£26) topped with watercress and sitting in a light white wine sauce. My pluma (£28) was perfectly cooked slices of excellent barbecued Iberian pork with a tasty guava sauce. It reminded me a little of the Italian tagliata style, if chef Andres will forgive me for mentioning this heresy.
By the time we reached number 5 it was touch and go if we could manage a dessert. But a gentle nudge about the warm Basque cheesecake (£6) with a wild berry compote was all we needed to comply. But a shared dish was all we could manage. It did though top off a memorable evening of excellent Spanish fare which fully deserves the praise Rayuela is getting.
As we left for home, I popped into a crowded Reineta two doors down to have a peek. There was plenty of fresh produce on show including baskets of those aforementioned Isle of Whight tomatoes. Meanwhile well-heeled Ealingers were downing wine and cold cuts aplenty. It seems they’ve come a very long way from dishing out take away dinners from the community church kitchen.
Rayuela might mean hopscotch but take it from me there is nothing jump and hop about this restaurant. It is a neighbourhood class act from start to finish. A Dickens Yard jewel.
All images except staff, interior and croquettes (C) Andy Mossack
Tell me more about Rayuela Restaurant
Rayuela, Unit 9C Dickens Yard, London W5 2TD
T: 020 4568 6659 E: info@rayuela.co.uk
Closed Monday – Tuesday
Wednesday – Saturday 12.00pm – 3.00pm
6.00pm – 10.30pm
Sunday Roasts are served at Reineta
