Frank Mannion reviews the Four Seasons Astir Palace and Grand Resort Lagonissi as ha admits to Instant Infatuation With The Athens Riviera.
One of Europe’s most visited attractions is the Acropolis of course as well as its spectacular and hedonistic islands of Santorini and Mykonos. But the Athens Riviera has been Greece’s best kept secret. Only 20 mins drive from the airport, this is one of Europe’s best summer destinations and one that offers comparatively value for money, gorgeous sunsets and guaranteed sunshine well into the autumn.
Four Seasons Astir Palace
“It takes a lifetime to discover Greece, but it only takes an instant to fall in love with her” according to the novelist Henry Miller. It is the perfect description about how I feel about the stunning Athens Riviera, the coastal area in the southern suburbs of Athens, located about 16 km (9.9 mi) from downtown Athens.
Probably Greece’s historic and storied hotel, the Four Seasons Astir Palace is where Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Onassis frolicked in its1960s heyday. Even Frank Sinatra came here to celebrate his retirement in the 1990s. While some of the original bungalows still stand from that era, the hotel re-opened after an extensive refurbishment in 2019 as part of the Four Seasons group.
Consisting of two new buildings the Arion and Nafsika, it also has 63 gorgeous bungalows, some with their own pool. When Liverpool legend Mohammad Salad holidayed here last year, he chose to stay in an expansive suite in the Nafsika building. I stayed in Bungalow 48 with a delightful west-facing terrace. The super king sized bed and sheets are divine so it is not surprising that the hotel offers them for sale and does a thriving trade.
A spacious marble bathroom with a low bathtub provides the perfect place to watch the spectacular sunset. Lush Diptyque products are contained in large resealable bottles while towels, bathrobes and bedding are all the Four Seasons’ own. A welcome gift of a white chocolate Greek Goddess plinth is a nice touch.
Bungalow residents have their own private beach overseen by a friendly local staff that are quick to offer water bottles in chilled bags. The Aegean has never looked so spectacular. Breakfast is served in the Arion building and the Greek omelette was so delicious that the chef kindly provided a detailed menu for me to try back home in London.
After a languid day on the adults-only Apollo Beach, dinner is at the nearby Taverna 37 where guests can choose their own locally caught fish of the day. I was not disappointed by a choice of Dorade that was expertly de-boned by the enthusiastic and friendly Arsenal-supporting waiter Pavlos. Dessert was a sensational Viennetta-style ice cream that was accompanied by a bronze-coloured Vin Santo. Guests of all nationalities sat under bougainvillea lined tables overlooking the sea as a sensational sunset was a real scene stealer.
A relaxing morning was spent at the delightful infinity pool of the Arion before a gorgeous lunch at Helioswhere Guatemalan chef Manuel Martín del Campo Bräuner reinvents Latin American classics like sea bass tostado and an imaginative and flavoursome banana tequila dessert – an iced yellow banana is infused with a light tequila flavoured coffee ice cream. I should have asked for the recipe for that too!
While it is only a 10-minute walk back to the bungalow, buggys are the desired means of transport especially in 30-degree heat. The friendly staff is local, one charming buggy driver was a film graduate from University College London.
I had dinner at the Michelin starred restaurant Pelagos which offers à la carte
but the lure of the historic 6-course menu proved irresistible. Dishes such as Rabbit and lobster from Santorini and Ceviche from chef Luca Piscazzi’s menu takes diners on a culinary journey around the Greek Islands.
A complete and utter feeling of relaxation is enabled by service that is seamless, flawless and prompt at the Astir Palace. Buggys arrive quickly and turn down service is discreet. Nothing is too much trouble for the delightful English-speaking staff. There is a vast choice with 6 restaurants, it is family friendly while the food offering is superb.
Even though the Vouliagmeni thermal lake is a much-loved local attraction, it was not tempting enough to leave the resort. Even in high season this 74-acre resort is busy, but it never feels crowded and rooms are spacious and allow for privacy. This is one of the best run hotels I have ever stayed in.
Grand Resort Lagonissi
Next stop was 20 minutes down the coast at the Grand Resort Lagonissi, a 5 star resort spread over 72 acres. I stayed at one of their spectacular pool suites which overlooks a private beach and provides an oasis of calm in the Greek summer heat.
The suite with lacquered floor is large with expansive wardrobe space, a seating area and an enormous bathroom that even had its own gym complete with weights, running machine and a boxing gym. The shower doubles as a steam room at the switch of a button and bath products are a local Greek brand.
With a stunning view, a bougainvillea filled garden and a beautiful 15m pool, there is absolutely no reason to leave the villa. Meryl Streep and Pierce Brosnan both called it home when they were filming Mamma Mia, while Leonardo DiCaprio stayed in the Royal Suite. The breakfast area is a short walk away although the hotel offers a buggy or a ‘club car’ as they call it.
The large breakfast offering provides a wide choice of traditional Greek dishes and fresh fruit on a terrace overlooking the coast. The main building has beautiful Murano chandeliers and creatively designed vases and a boutique selling high end luxury local brands such as Themis Z.
This is a family friendly resort that has an idyllic beautiful kidney-shaped pool that looks straight out of a Slim Arons creation. The resort has a great choice of restaurants with Mediterraneo open for lunch on the main beach. Dinner was at Kohylia which offers the most stunning sunset views. The inventive menu by Chrysanthos Manolopoulos is culinary heaven with fresh locally sourced tempura and grouper fish served with Greek Chardonnay in beautiful vibrant red Greek crockery. I felt spoilt after Shrimp Tempura, Lobster and the chef’s take on Black Forest Gateau dessert.
Dinner on the final night is at Ouzeri Aegeon (also overseen by Chrysanthos Manolopoulos) which provides a romantic setting on a terrace with a stunning view of the Blue Moon that is illuminating the Aegean Sea below. I decide on seabass that is carefully cut in front of me with the head being left as a trophy on our table. Service is impeccable and prompt despite large groups of diners arriving simultaneously.
I had intended to visit the Temple of Poseidon in the vicinity but could not drag myself away from the resort. Still, that gives me a great excuse to return to the Athenian Riviera. It’s Greece’s best kept secret, well at least until now….
Tell me more about staying on the Athens Riviera
Four Seasons Astir Palace offers double rooms from £454 per night.
Room rates at Grand Resort Lagonissi start from £261 in low season and from £320 in high season.
