West Thirty Six

It looks like a club, it feels like a club, but West Thirty Six is that rare thing, a public restaurant with all the intimate ambience of a private club.
The fact it’s in Golborne Road is both a blessing and a curse. For those in the know, this is a charming and happening west London thoroughfare which has undergone massive gentrification in the past decade.

That doesn’t, unfortunately, make it any easier to reach from central London, but at least those who lunch there will find special shops open to make the journey worthwhile.
Lunchers are also more likely to find “fine dining” space on the first floor, avoiding the overcrowded bistro tables at ground-floor level serving more casual food. We sat in armchairs by a big window feeling cossetted in a first floor room styled like a retro lounge which was comfy rather than chic. There is a slightly smarter and cosier snug off this (so long as you understand that frayed carpets are a deliberately ironic contribution to the decor).

De luxe options from ex-Soho House chef Jon Pollard not widely available in a relaxed setting in the arse-end of west London include a highly-rated roast rare breed chicken and a burger made from aged rib-eye beef. Great as the lobster was – and the charred lemon half really gave it added visual appeal while the accompanying garlic and hazelnut butter tickled the tastebuds – it was almost eclipsed by a sensational vegetarian side dish of chard with fennel, lentils, pine nuts and yogurt.
We relived a recent trip to Tuscany with a decent vernaccia from San Gimignano, one of a few less-travelled wines available by the glass, and finished with crushed banoffee, narrowly agreed on over the chance to build our own sundaes. Service was amiable, if not exactly rapid.
Given that Golborne Road is a fine alternative shopping destination, late Saturday morning could be the best time to visit. You may not find the lobster, but the chicken and burger are both on the brunch menu, along with properly brunchy things like berry pancakes, steak and eggs and a wicked-sounding version of French toast with vanilla ice-cream and caramel sauce.