Valamar Lacroma Hotel, Dubrovnik. Enjoy A Luxury Hotel Away From The Crowds.

Nick Harman visits a newly refurbed Valamar Lacroma Hotel, a luxury property in increasingly popular Croatia.

It’s hard to believe that not that long ago Croatia was more a destination for war reporters than for tourists, but today that is very much all in the past as holiday makers flock to the region for its scenery, beaches and its still unspoilt towns and villages and superb sunshine that lasts well into October,

Valamar Lacroma Hotel is just fifteen minutes by regular bus service from the remarkable city of Dubrovnik, but as it’s out on the scenic Babin Kuk Peninsula it’s well away from the hustle and bustle of the town, as well the hordes of tourists from cruise ships that flood in each morning. It takes us overall about thirty minutes to get to the hotel from the airport by Uber

Designed to offer everyone a great balcony view, the large hotel languidly steps down to the blue waters of the Adriatic. Each roof is greened with turf and plants, helping the hotel quietly disappear into the landscape. From our fourth (top) floor balcony we can see the white pebble beach below, as well as the semi-hidden pools for all ages surrounded by lush pomegranate gardens. Each evening the sunset views over the water are a spectacular free show, best enjoyed with a drink from the terrace bar.

The hotel was given a serious makeover in early 2024 and it’s part of the Valamar group that has a foothold in all the best Croatian locations. The result is an upmarket hotel that is cool, modern and light filled and now boasts the Balance Mediterranean Spa, which has a massive indoor pool and seamlessly links to the gardens of soft grass.

Watersports of all types are available down on the pebbly Copacabana beach, or if you’re like us and not too sporty, you can weave your way down the paths to the Coral Beach Club where there are bars and restaurants, as well as a separate beach suitable for small children.

That said, the design of the hotel means there are quite a few stairs outside and while clever use of the internal lifts can detour you around many of them, anyone with mobility problems, or pushing a buggy, might not be able to enjoy the hotel and grounds fully. I’m averagely fit for an old geezer, but I still found myself puffing and pausing a bit on the climb up from the beach. Totally worth it, though.

Younger guests with small children will certainly appreciate Maro Holiday which takes care of kids and offers a fun pool experience well away from their undoubtedly grateful parents. We were aware of the kids’ pool’s presence, but the noise never reached our sunbeds to ripple our G&Ts. Couples equally unencumbered can enjoy the adult pools, bars and relaxation areas. Wi Fi is strong everywhere both outside and in.

Families, or close couples, can choose a suite like ours with a comfy lounge plus twin bedrooms, twin bathrooms and three giant TVs. These rooms come with double balconies offering the best views out over the terraces toward the sea. Most of the modern, coolly decorated and furnished rooms also have balconies. Robes and slippers are provided, as well as a beach/pool bag with towels. Capsule coffee machines and a kettle are standard.

The hotel has two restaurants, the main one being the Mediterraneo (despite the hotel actually being on the Adriatico). This is in the all-inclusive buffet style that’s taking over everywhere, and it’s done very well. The choice is enough to make your head spin and it took us a day or two to not panic and stop piling our plates with everything in sight as if it was all going to disappear like a mirage.

Meat and fresh fish are cooked to order on the hot plates and there’s also fresh cooked pizza. There’s plenty for vegetarians, too. There are bakery counters, cheese counters, and even an olive (and olive oil) counter featuring the excellent Croatian olive oil. Local dishes such as ‘black risotto’ made with squid ink, and Pašticada, a stew of marinated beef and prunes are usually available.

The space is large, you’ll always get a table to yourselves, and the end opens up to a large terrace dining area with views out to sea.

For a more traditional experience, The V Level restaurant Momenti costs extra but here we enjoyed elevated a la carte dining and table service with another outside dining area to watch the sunset. Starters are from a buffet, but the rest is all waiter service.

In the mornings the breakfasts are lavish, from the many healthy options to the very British eggs freshly cooked in various ways with bacon. For once the sausages offered actually resemble a real sausage, and not some curious frankfurter thing. Snacks are available around the pool at Mezzino and the Vero bar is a pleasant oasis every evening, usually with live music. With a Dine Around Card you can also eat at the partner hotel restaurants nearby, like the Valamar President down the hill.

We had to see Dubrovnik Old Town, one of the world’s most perfectly preserved mediaeval cities and of course famous from Game of Thrones. Totally traffic-free, the narrow stone lanes and squares filled with bars, restaurants and smart shops we found rather reminiscent of Venice, if Venice had bullet marked walls. Best to go in the afternoon, after the cruise ships have departed and you can get around easier.

The hotel organises trips out to vineyards for wine and oyster tastings, as well as yacht trips to the many pretty islands visible not far off shore

With Croatia very much on the holiday map now with its verdant landscapes, beautiful blue sea and its classic Mediterranean feel. Valamar Lacroma Hotel is a good mid-upmarket choice.