Andy Mossack offers his guide to the hidden Cotswolds, where over-tourism is certainly not an issue.
The Cotswolds region of England’s southwest is one of the most beautiful parts of the country. Stretching nearly 800 square miles across six counties but mainly Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire, the gorgeous golden Cotswold stone-laden villages are pristine examples of the wealth landowners in the Middle Ages earned from trading their lucrative Cotswold Lion sheep wool.
But this popularity comes at a hefty price. Villages like Bourton-on-the-Water and Bibury face coachloads of tourists every day, and while this is no doubt good for local traders, the sheer numbers can make the experience a lot less pleasant for visitors.
So in that case here’s a few suggestions that will likely make your Cotswolds visit a lot more enjoyable.
Bourton House Garden
While Bourton-on-the-Water visitors are fighting for space, just a few miles away on Bourton Hill, the Bourton House Garden offers peaceful solace. This impressive 18th century manor house, still privately owned, is surrounded by 3 acres of sumptuous gardens lovingly curated and cared for by head gardener Jacky Rae. Look out for imaginative topiary, rare and exotic plant life, water features, bountiful terraces, a canvass of colour and some glorious views of Cotswold rolling hills.
A glorious 16th century Grade 1-listed Tithe Barn provides a home for a charming café offering home-made cakes and pastries while a shop offers the opportunity to buy seeds and plants to take home. Just opposite, the previous head gardener created a a 7-acre field to wander around filled with different varieties of trees.
The Rollright Stones
Forget the odd name as these stones have nothing to do with rolling right, they’re just named after the tiny village of Great Rollright. But what they are, are three remarkable megalithic monuments spanning 3,800 to 1,500 BC, known as the King’s Men, Whispering Knights and the King Stone. Despite being built many ages apart, they are connected through the continuation of pagan rituals taking place on sacred burial grounds. The Stones are steeped in local folklore and although the sites have been excavated and analysed by archaeologists, no one can be truly certain of their true origin or purpose.
It all adds to the mystery, but they are well worth a stop. For me there is no doubt there is something a little special here.
Villages off the beaten path
Just because the two marquee villages already mentioned draw the crowds, there are many more that are well worth exploring. Try Blockley, Stanton and Stanway for a start. The tiny hamlet of Ebrington (known locally as Yabbington) is also worth seeing with its lovely, thatched roofs and medieval St Eadburga church. Ebrington Manor has been the seat of the Fortescue family since the 1476. Tthe Ebrington Arms pub does an excellent lunch including the famed Ebrington sausage roll.
While we’re on the subject of pubs, the Killingworth Castle in the tiny hamlet of Wootton is a pub with rooms which has an excellent local reputation for fine food and drink. I can say from personal experience the fare on offer there is tip top, and if you’re passing by on a local walk, the coffee is right up there with the best I’ve tasted in the area. Landlords Jim and Claire Alexander will no doubt welcome you with open arms.
Cotswold Lakes
This used to be called Cotswold Water Park which sounded like a park you go to with slides and flumes, now it’s a much better description of this wetlands heaven with over 180 lakes spread over 42 miles. Plenty of off-road walking and cycling trails and an absolute haven for birders and wildlife enthusiasts.
The Cotswold Lakes heart is just a few miles outside Cirencester where you’ll find the Cotswold Lakes Visitor Centre next to The Old Boathouse in the grounds of the De Vere Hotel. There’s free parking here and everything you’ll need to find your way around the various circular trails and where to see the best wildlife. There’s also a few bars and restaurants for you to get fed and watered after your return.
Cirencester
It may not have the cachet of the Cotswolds show villages, but Cirencester is a market town with some serious history dating back to 150 CE. Although it’s perhaps best known for its Roman lineage rivalling St. Albans as the second biggest to London. There are plenty of examples of Roman antiquity with more being unearthed seemingly every year thanks to the town’s road expansion projects.
The latest being a stunning mosaic mural found in a back garden and currently gracing the lobby of the town museum. The earthwork remains of the massive amphitheatre, just outside the city centre, is free to visit and an impressive sight. It was big enough to hold over 8,000 spectators.
Join one of the daily guided walking tours of the town conducted by local volunteers and learn some fascinating stories about its storied past. The two-hour guided walk hosted by a local volunteer starts outside the church in the market square and is free; however, they welcome a £5 per person donation which goes towards the church restoration fund.
Cirencester was at the heart of wool trading which took place in the historic market square along with the aptly named Sheep Street. By the way, the mobile coffee van next to the church is worth a stop while waiting for the tour, the coffee is delicious.
Cotswolds Falconry
This was a real find for me. It’s one of the leading birds of prey centres in the UK with over 100 birds lovingly cared for. Eagles, owls and vultures lead a cast of over 60 different species with regular public flying displays throughout the day included in the admission price. Set against a stunning landscape in in the grounds of Batsford arboretum (and another place to visit) near Moreton in Marsh, it offers a close and personal insight into the natural behaviour of these magnificent birds.
Open every day from 10.30am mid-February to mid-November.
Daylesford Organic
What began as a passion project to provide beautiful organic food products from a stylish farm shop has become an extraordinary enterprise. Still owned and managed by Baroness Carole Bamford of the JCB dynasty the shop is still there as is the company’s commitment to everything organic. You’ll find restaurants, clothing, home and garden products, a wellness centre and numerous places to stay around the estate. All of it incredibly chic and stylish and simply has to be seen to be believed.
This hidden Cotswolds introduction offers a far richer experience for you to enjoy one of England’s most glorious regions without having to face fighting your way around the hordes of visitors.
All images (C) Andy Mossack except feature image, Bourton Garden and Cirencester wall (C) Cotswolds Tourism
Tell me more about the Hidden Cotswolds
For more information on the hidden Cotswolds and much more, please go to Cotswolds Tourism
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