Indian Summer House. The Art Of Serene Hospitality Accomplished In Kerala.

Andy Mossack stays at Indian Summer House in Kerala a 5-villa retreat that sets the bar on serene boutique luxury.

If I’m honest the moment I realised owners Don and Mini had cracked it was just after dinner on our second night. I had casually mentioned to my wife “You know what, I quite fancy a chole bhatura for breakfast tomorrow…” (This is a north Indian breakfast staple of slow cooked chickpea curry and a fried puffed flat bread and one of my favourite Indian dishes). I thought nothing more of it until we said goodnight to Don on our way back to our villa and he replied “Night Andy, and by the way, chef is already preparing your chole for tomorrow”.

Normally I would be astounded, but this was the kind of thing we had come to expect at Indian Summer House. A place where literally everything a guest could possibly need has been thought through and delivered. Then again, when you learn this was once Mini’s ancestral home and she was literally born in what is now the gym, it’s clear there’s a sense of achievement borne out of love and affection for a family home.

That said, Indian Summer House is a labour of love, meticulously built from scratch on the family plot using the late Made Wijaya, a genius legendary architect, locally sourced materials and incredibly skilled artisans from Muvattapuzha the nearby town..

There is a wistful colonial feel about the place; palatial covered verandas with giant ceiling fans surround a landscaped tropical garden, five spacious and beautifully appointed guest villas with expansive terraces, and good old-fashioned service where every guest is royalty. It looks like an exquisite heritage property that’s been lovingly restored, but as Don says, nothing can be further from the truth. “Everything you see here is brand new even though it looks old, from the intricate woodwork to the green algae-encrusted stone art. And, by the way, those sculptures were bloody heavy to lug around.”

The conception of Indian Summer House is quite a story and seeing it now in all its magnificence disguises all the the pain and anguish that went into building it, including the global financial crisis and then the pandemic. Quite a punt for a Melbourne guy looking to uproot from Australia with his newly wedded wife to settle in her Keralan hometown, let alone create a new luxury hotel from scratch.

But thankfully all that is ancient history now as my wife and I threw ourselves into the welcoming embrace of the hotel team as we arrived just in time for lunch.

Villa Host Sharesh “Do you want lunch first, or shall we show you your villa?”

“Villa first I think Sharesh, time for a little freshen up?”

Our villa was named Hunuman, and what a villa it was. Perhaps they’d done their research on me as Hunuman translates as someone with the superpower of invincibility. I’m quite fond of that particular power. A large queen bed dominated the cavernous but very stylish main room, with air conditioning and ceiling fans leading to a spacious beautifully equipped bathroom with a walk-in rain shower and, through a glass door in a glass wall, down a flagstone path guarded by mini-stone sculptures, an open-air rainforest shower. Perfect for tropical Kerala.

Outside, a huge wrap around terrace was furnished with a rattan-style settee with two armchairs at one end and a dining table at the other and three large ceiling fans to keep us cool. And then a little surprise, we also had our own fully equipped kitchen with kettle, tea and Nespresso machine.

Back at the main villa for lunch chef Antony conjured up some delicious local specialities for us. No menu, we were at the mercy of the king of the kitchen. Here’s the thing with Indian Summer House, all meals are included in the room rate, so hand over your eating preferences and just lie back and relax.

And relaxing was absolutely on the agenda post lunch, two sun beds by the gorgeous pool thank you very much. Surrounded by birdsong and tropical fauna and flora, the large pool is an oasis of tranquillity. An elegant pergola at one end provides shade, while comfy sunbeds offer poolside relaxation.

Sharesh was back with a late afternoon suggestion. “Fancy a little stroll with me to a local teahouse?” There’s nothing we like better than meeting some local characters, so we jumped at the chance.

Pretty soon it turned into a little more than a stroll. Sharesh turned down a narrow path and suddenly we’re by a river next to a gentleman with a canoe and paddle. It seems this man was the local river Uber and thankfully deposited us on the opposite bank still dry.

Another short stroll across some farmland brought us to Kadathi village and Mohanan’s tea house, a village staple that has been serving masala chai in the same tiny rustic shop for over 100 years. Mohanan together with his wife Valsala are 3rd generation owners and still going strong. Mohanan is a larger-than-life character who revelled in dispensing his chai by pouring it wallah-style from a great height. Pure theatre. Their banana fritters and spicy lentil cakes were pretty tasty too.

No canoe adventure for the return journey, just a thrilling tuk tuk ride back to Indian Summer House.

Dusk was fast approaching now, and we spent an hour sitting on our terrace watching a glorious sunset unfold and having a moment.

Evening at Indian Summer House heralded a change of enchantment. Stylish lighting, buzzing crickets, soft jazz and a myriad of scents. Dinner out on the restaurant terrace was a relaxing affair, informal and delicious. It really was like having your own private chef.

Speaking of which, on our last night we were royally spoiled. A memorable romantic table for two out by the pool pergola. Twinkling tea lights surrounded the pool, rose petals were scattered across the table, a candlelit lantern and at the table centre, the trimmed trunk of a banana plant embedded with fresh roses. There was even a heart shaped dessert.

Don and the team really knew how to throw a romantic dinner, and trust me, it really doesn’t get much better than that.

Dinner is also a time to reflect on your day’s experiences and perhaps discuss an activity plan with the team for the next day. Maybe an ayurveda massage or reflexology session in the hotel spa, a shopping trip to a recommended local retailer, a temple visit, or alternatively just do nothing, that’s always an option.

The Indian Summer House is an exceptional example of exactly how to offer the perfect luxury boutique experience. A serene retreat light years away from the touristy hustle and bustle of Kochi. An absolute must stay for anyone visiting Kerala.

Photos (C) Indian Summer House and Andy Mossack