Andy Mossack reviews Bottega 35, the newbie in town as a long time Kensington favourite is re-imagined.
After eight long years Zuaya, one of Kensington’s favourite neighbourhood restaurants and highly recommended by my good self, has seen its Latin American flavours eschewed for Tuscan ones as Bottega 35 makes its debut.
The starting place for Spanish twins Alberto and Arian Zandi, who now have their signature Mayfair Spanish restaurant El Norte, Italian-inspired Como Garden and Mediterranean-themed Riviera in their portfolio. The pair are also working on three new concepts at Daniel House (the former Daily Telegraph building) in partnership with Regis Group, owners of Claridges and The Connaught hotels.
Busy times for the brothers, who despite its long run, clearly felt Zuaya needed a reboot and frankly, while Tuscan tastes are always going to be a popular choice, winning over Zuaya’s regulars might well be a challenge.
So I was gratified when I turned up at Bottega 35 during its September soft opening, to be greeted by a full house. Although this crowd of regulars were perhaps tempted in by the promise of a 30% discount, it was nevertheless a good sign that forgiveness might not be too far away.
As Alberto points out “Zuaya was our first home and the start of everything for us. Eight years on, we’re excited to bring something new to the neighbourhood with Bottega 35: Tuscan food cooked with heart, poured with great wine, and delivered with that same warm hospitality Kensington knows us for”.
The interior has been freshened up with a distinct Tuscan feel – tanned brushed pebble dash style walls and exposed brickwork. The smaller upstairs section has had the bar removed to allow for additional seating, while the larger downstairs room remains the restaurant’s beating heart.
The menu, however, was altogether different. We kicked off with some shared antipasti: fried zucchini strips (£7), although not necessarily a Tuscan staple they were freshly fried and deliciously hot and moreish particularly alongside 3 slices of house focaccia bread (£5) baked with an onion and mozzarella topping. I had a slight pang of regret as I noticed the tableware they were using was still Zuaya’s. Perfectly good tableware as it happens so why not?
Next up a very tasty green salad (£14) spinach, green beans, asparagus, avocado, and an excellent mustard vinaigrette. Hastily followed by a traditional melanzane parmigiana (£17) oven-baked aubergine and parmesan cheese in a tomato sauce.
Considering the packed crowd the kitchen service was holding up well for a soft opening and the waiting staff remarkably calm.
The diners on our neighbouring table were looking on perhaps slightly envious of our choices although their shared platters seemed impressive enough to me.
All was going exceedingly well from my perspective, helped in part by an excellent glass of ruby Primitivo di Salento Doppio Passo (£14).
Our main arrived carried triumphantly above the crowd and delivered with reverence. A huge breaded chicken Milanese (£23) accompanied by a chunk of fresh lemon and parmesan butter and sides of oven roasted potatoes and Uccelletto white beans (£7), a particular favourite of mine.
The chicken was deliciously moist and tender and coated with crunchy breadcrumbs.
An imperial thumbs up from our table.
Into the home stretch now and a glorious finish ensued. A show stopping pistachio cheesecake with two spoons (£13) indulgently delicious and heaven on a plate.
Soft openings are designed to ease out any potential creases in service and road test dishes before the doors open officially. Zuaya’s loyal regulars seemed to be suitably impressed with Bottega 35. Based on this showing, I have no doubt Kensington’s newbie on the block will be a roaring success and proudly continue Zuaya’s legacy.
As for Zuaya, all is not lost as the concept is due to reopen internationally in Luxembourg in the near future. The legend lives on!
Photo credits: Andy Mossack and Bottega 35
Tell me more about Bottega 35 Tuscan restaurant
Bottega 35, 35 Kensington High Street, London W8
Reservations: Open Table T: +44 20 7938 3533
Opening hours: 12:00–00:00
