CORD. Experience A Sensational Le Cordon Bleu Dining Masterclass In London.

Andy Mossack dines at CORD on London’s historic Fleet Street and gets a taste of fine French dining.

As far as pedigrees go this one is about as impressive as it gets. Le Cordon Bleu has been the gold standard across the world as an institute of French culinary quality for over 130 years with 35 schools in 20 countries. So when you get an invitation to come and sample what many consider to be the last word in classic French fine dining, you certainly sit up and take notice.

CORD is on London’s Fleet Street; a place itself steeped in a storied history. This was once the beating heart of Britain’s national press, where the great newspaper barons printed broadsheets and tabloids to UK citizens 364 days a year, their presses falling silent only on Christmas Day.

Dramas, deals and scoops played out within its restaurants and watering holes.

Those were the days.

Fast forward and Fleet Street’s newspapers may have moved on, but the famous Royal Courts of Justice still remain, where perhaps dramas of a different kind might still play out over a fine meal and a glass or two.

A suitably noble stage for CORD to showcase its culinary skills in an impressive Grade II listed building housing not only a fine dining AA 3 rosette restaurant but also a Parisien style Cafe.

CORD is the very first restaurant to be owned and run by Le Cordon Bleu and as you might expect, as its flagship, its managed and run by a formidable professional kitchen brigade and front of house team. The students studying at the school, have no involvement in CORD except occasional visits to the kitchen for practical course work.

Speaking of a formidable team, I was greeted at CORD by assistant manager Florent Martin (‘call me Flo’), a hospitality veteran who revealed in a relaxed but impeccable way he just happened to be married to head chef Justine Bordet!

To me, this was the poker equivalent of going all in right from the off, giving him nowhere else to go except down. It was a chancy strategy to pitch to a food critic but one clearly done with the confidence they could pull it off.

Once I got into the spacious main room it was clear this was a restaurant where the food and wine did the talking. One whole side was an open plan kitchen, the brigade primed and ready for service with Justine at the centre of the action, leading the charge. Ultimate overlord of the food however is executive chef Karl O’Dell another culinary wizard whose CV includes stints at Michelin star-studded Texture and Petrus.

No wonder Flo was so bullish.

That evening’s gastronomic feast was the summer five-course tasting menu which also included a flute of NV Tattinger Brut Reserve, and our table for two was set right in front of the kitchen. Front row seats to culinary theatre. The curtain was raised.

First up were the canapés. A trio of absolute mini belters arrayed on a delightful multilayered white tray akin to a carved iceberg. Two delicate beef tartare tartelettes were perched at the summit peering down at sister tartelettes with egg, leek and sumac, and finally, an edible canoe of fluffy haddock and cream cheese.

An enchanting start bursting with flavours, quickly followed by a couple of fresh oysters in a cucumber sorbet as a chef’s surprise.

By now the kitchen was in full flow, but from our vantage point, strangely calm and collected. No Ramsay – like shouting and swearing, just a well drilled team each taking care of their own section in an effective professional way.

Speaking of which the raw section beckoning a ready sign to Justine, heralded our next course; a circle of otoro blue fin tuna belly in a beef consommé, with tamarind and a sprinkling of royal oscietra caviar.

Sommelier Jiachen appeared clutching a bottle of Manzanilla Posada sherry from Cádiz. “a little of this very dry sherry will counterbalance the fatty notes of this belly cut of tuna perfectly.” I have to confess it was the first time I have ever had tuna paired with dry sherry, and full marks to Jiachen, she was spot on.

Next up, another fish dish; a quite memorable and colourful barbecued charred monkfish with avocado, basil and molasses. As an extra treat, we discovered a monkfish mousse cake adorning the side of the dish, while the tequila jus gave it all a justified kick. It was, dare I say it, a piece of edible art.

Now the stage was set for the headline act as our main course arrived carried triumphantly to the table by head chef Justine. The Salt Marsh Lamb Rack. An exquisitely cooked pair of lamb chops sitting on a black rock surrounded by a floral display of wildflowers. This was lamb cooked so perfectly it was melt in your mouth delicious. It was first cooked in water sous vide before grilling to make the meat interior so incredibly tender. With some added courgettes, almonds, apricots and sweetbread, this dish was a total triumph and well deserving it’s headline status.

We paused now for a small Aperol spritz palate cleanser over a blood orange and grapefruit prosecco gel before our final course.

The lamb was a hard act to follow, but this mango and passionfruit dessert was a CORD signature dish and naturally had to be respected. And it didn’t disappoint in the slightest. It turned out to be a passionfruit mousse cake with a honeycomb base and topped with a spiral of mango with a mango sorbet side. Delightful and utterly delicious. A fitting finale to an epic tasting menu.

CORD’s five course tasting menu is the perfect answer to anyone who might ask the question ‘where did the phrase Cordon Bleu originate?’ CORD may be found in the London street made famous for printing newspapers, but on this showing, it’s making its own headlines. The only difference is you can devour these.