Solange Berchemin dives into a traditional mezze at the Hondros Tavern In Paphos
Step in Hondros Tavern, share a mezze, and you will be transported back to the 1950’s when the establishment first opened. Sure, Paphos has changed beyond recognition. The sleepy fishing port is now a touristic centre on epic scale. But some traditions are deeply steeped in familial heritage, take, the mezze, for example, a familial and sociable dining experience, a concept that has been part of the Cypriot culture for centuries.
After a visit to the exquisite mosaic floors for which the archaeological Park is famous, we headed for Hondros, a stone’s throw away from the Roman villas. We arrived promptly at 13.00 and walk into a large outer courtyard with wooden tables neatly dressed in blue gingham tablecloths. Strangely enough the place was almost empty, although there was a sense of anticipation in the air, with a cohort of waiters zooming around. We were shown to a table for two placed by a tree that grows through the restaurant canopy.
The size of our table and the number of seating should have alerted me to what was to come. Ours was a very large space for two and the out courtyard has many tables. The jovial Mr Lakis greeted us with a lively: ‘Welcome and bon appetit’. Before Ieaving for Paphos, I had been told: ‘You’re reviewing Hondros, leave space for dessert’. Bizarre! I always have room for another dish, little did I know.
A mezze is by definition many small dishes that make a large feast.
Hummus, Haydari (yogurt with herbs), pittas, julienned carrots and cabbage, tomato salad and gorgeous olives arrived first. As our table started to fill up so was the restaurant. Families and friends greeted one another, children happily mixing in, everyone ready to make new memories around delicious food.
Then, came my favourite, Skordalia (potato and garlic dip), Melitzanosalata (aubergine dip) appeared along with grilled mushrooms. It was a ballet of mouthwatering dishes; By now all hands were on deck, Mr Lakis and his staff taking time to listen to the punters stories, look at mobile phone pictures and share a joke. When the loukanika sausages which taste of orange and fennel, potato salad, courgettes beignets, grilled Halloumi and Muhammara (roasted red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate molasses) and
vine leaves softly landed we took a breather. By now the cicadas were competing with the general chatter to be heard.
This was turning into a celebration of local flavours, each dish was succulent and well prepared. Barbecued chicken and pork were so good that I wish I had tummy space for more of the same. Eventually, our waitress announced: ‘Only two more’ by then I had lost count and, in came the star dishes, kleftiko and delicious stewed Stifado. This is Hondros culinary secret, consistently very good food. The Stifado was just as delicious as the Skordalia. Hondros is the oldest tavern in Paphos, by the look of its popularity, it looks like it might continue for a long time.
As I drained the last of my local beer, packed my camera, I heard a gentle: ‘you can’t leave us without eating dessert’. Goodness, I had forgotten, ‘room for dessert’, I might struggle out of my seat but for nothing on earth, would I pass on more deliciousness.
Tell me more about the Hondros Tavern in Paphos
Hondros Tavern Apostolou Pavlou Ave, Paphos 8040
T: +357 2693-425-6
Sample Prices: Meze (fish/meat/or vegetarian) €28-35 per person, Selection of dips €14
Mon-Sun: 12.00 am – 11.00 pm – reservation highly recommended.
Copyright Disclaimer: Photo of mosaics, dolmades and full mezze-definition have been kindly provided by the Cyprus Deputy Ministry of Tourism
