Rupert Parker goes slow and explores the city of Jaffna and its peninsula in his guide to cycling Sri Lanka.
I’m travelling to Jaffna, in the far north of Sri Lanka on the Intercity Express from Colombo. During the long years of the civil war the line was out of fought over between the Tamil Tigers and the Sri Lankan military. Completely rebuilt, with new stations and track, it’s now much the most comfortable way to travel.
I reach Elephant Pass, the narrow causeway that connects the Jaffna Peninsula with the rest of the island. It’s named after the crossing place for elephants, though it’s best known for some of civil war’s fiercest battles. An improvised armoured bulldozer, used by the Tamil Tigers, is preserved as a memorial.
Jaffa is still not on most traveller’s itineraries, perhaps because the region is still relatively underdeveloped. The surrounding islands offer an entirely different world, each with its own rhythm, community, and character. My plan is to base myself in the city and explore the area by bicycle
Jaffna
When I get off the train, I’m surprised by how different the place feels to the rest of island. The feel is more India than Sri Lanka, not surprising as it’s very close, just around 60km across the Palk Strait. The majority are Tamil rather than Singhalese, something very much reflected in the spicy food and proliferation of ornate Hindu temples.
Overlooking the Jaffna lagoon, guarding the town the Jaffna Fort, built by the Portuguese in 1618 and later expanded by the Dutch, is a resilient survivor of the war. You can almost walk the complete ramparts, with stunning views of the lagoon and the centre of town.
A short walk from the fort leads to the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, one of the most significant Hindu temples in Sri Lanka. This vibrant, gold-embellished sanctuary pulses with devotional energy, especially during the annual Nallur Festival, when the streets around the temple come alive with music, dance, and elaborate rituals.
For something fun, start the day early at the 3km long Passaiyoor Fishery Harbour where hundreds of colourful fishing boats moor offshore while blue fishing nets drape the surroundings. If you’re early enough watch the fishmongers frantically calling buyers to auction the day’s catch, at the fish market.
Kayts
I borrow and old iron bike with no gears and the ride to Kayts Island is an experience in itself. As I pass across the narrow causeway with shrimp fishermen wading in the shallow waters amid flocks of water birds, the scenery changes. Goodbye to the city bustle and hello to serene lagoons, mangroves, and salt pans shimmering under the sun.
Under colonial rule, the island was an important naval and trading post. Churches, remnants of old forts, and tiny villages dot the landscape. Local children, pleasantly surprised to see a white man on a bicycle, greet me as I trundle by. It’s hot and humid work and I’m glad to arrive at the dock with it cooling sea breezes.
Karaitivu Island
A short ferry ride takes me to Karaitivu Island. Fort Hammenhiel, sitting on an offshore rock, was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century and later fortified by the Dutch. It was strategically placed to control access to Jaffna but more recently it housed political prisoners. Now it’s been converted into a boutique hotel managed by the Sri Lankan Navy.
The island’s main settlement, Karainagar, serves as a gateway to its cultural and natural attractions. Among these is the Kovilan Point Lighthouse, a 30m tall masonry tower built in 1916, which stands as a sentinel on the island’s coast, guiding seafarers and offering panoramic views of the surrounding seascape.
Nearby Casuarina Beach is celebrated as one of the most pristine beaches in the Jaffna Peninsula. The beach’s shallow, calm waters make it an ideal spot for swimming, especially for families with children. In the sea I encounter overseas Tamils who left as children during the war. They’re now returning for the first time with their families. A long causeway takes me back to the main peninsula and home to Jaffna
Delft
Next day, I’m up early as I have to catch the ferry to Delft, the most westerly island. Two long causeways lead first to Kayts and then to Pungudutivu where I arrive to find a huge queue for the ferry at Kurikadduwan jetty. It takes just over an hour to reach Delft, first occupied by the Portuguese and then by the Dutch who gave it its name.
No cars are allowed and a standard circuit takes me to the ruined Dutch fort, made from bits of broken coral and a Portuguese dovecote. There are ruins of stables built by Irishman, Lieutenant Edward Nolan who once ran this as his own kingdom. Wild ponies, brought here in colonial times, run free through the arid and windswept landscape.
Kadurugoda
On my final day I set off, to explore the countryside north of Jaffna, as far as Point Pedro, the tip of the island. My first stop is the curious archaeological site of Kadurugoda – an unusual huddle of around twenty miniature grey stupas, ranging in height from one to three metres. Around forty remain unexcavated and the site dates back at least two thousand years. A popular theory is that stupas contain the remains of Buddhist monks.
Keerimalai Naguleswaram Temple
Five kilometres north of Jaffna, in the village of Keerimalai, is the Keerimalai Naguleswaram Temple. This ancient Hindu shrine is s a significant pilgrimage site for devotees worldwide. Next to it are the Keerimalai Springs, renowned for their natural, freshwater pools that emerge miraculously right by the sea.
These pools are more than just a natural wonder – they are considered sacred and pilgrims are segregated into male and female sections. It’s believed that the waters are good for various skin diseases, cleanse the spirit, and bring good fortune. There’s a good crowd here today creating something of a holiday atmosphere.
Point Pedro
I follow the coast eastwards towards Point Pedro, diverting around military installations. The town is just a few kilometres from the Sri Lanka’s northernmost point, Sakkotai Cape, marked by a humble concrete marker. There’s not much here, just a dilapidated lighthouse, built during the British colonial period.
India is just over 60km away, across the open sea, within sight on a clear day. The ferry between the two countries has recently recommenced but for me, this is journey’s end. Exploring the region on two wheels is much the best way to travel although a heavy old iron bike is not the easiest way to do it. Now if they had e-bikes, that would really be a game changer.
Tell me more about this Guide to Cycling Sri Lanka
Sri Lankan Airlines flies direct to Colombo from London Heathrow. The Express Train takes around seven hours from Colombo to Jaffna
The Jetwing Jaffna makes a comfortable base in the centre of the town and also supplies bicycles.
The Thinnai is in quieter part of town and has large suites.
Sri Lanka Travel has information about this Guide to Cycling Sri Lanka’s North and Islands and the rest of Sri Lanka.
