In The Tropical Island Of Hainan, Rupert Parker discovers rainforests, space launches and ethnic diversity.
I’ve been to many regions of China, but the island of Hainan is completely different, more like its South Asian neighbours Vietnam and Thailand. That’s because it’s the southernmost point of China, with around 60% tropical rain forest. It’s been dubbed the Hawaii of China but it’s far more. Think long sandy beaches, rich cultural heritage, ecological treasures, and cutting-edge space technology.
It’s a large island, roughly 300 km long and 180 km wide and its warm climate makes it a year-round destination. Start in Haikou, the provincial capital, then journey to the south to the resort city of Sanya, discovering the island’s natural attractions on the way. There’s an excellent transport network and accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets.
Haikou
My flight arrives in Haukou and I set out to explore the city’s well preserved historic district. It reminds me of old Singapore or Hong Kong and the streets are lined with nicely crumbling colonial style buildings, nestled cheek by jowl among the 21st century Chinese high rises.
It covers quite a large area and, although the main street has typical tourist tea houses, snack bars and artisan shops, the narrow side alleys are very definitely local. I find food markets, grocery shops and pavement vendors, a mirror of the Hainan day to day. At night the area lights up, with music, performances and street food.
Wenchang Space Launch Site
Travelling south down the east coast, I arrive in Wenchang, home to one of China’s premier space centres. The beaches here are pristine and the coastal location of the launch site offers practical advantages for space missions. High tech materials arrive by boat and launching over the sea is an extra safety factor.
Crowds gather at designated viewing areas for the launches but I’m lucky enough to be able to watch it from my hotel balcony. Lift off is scheduled for just after midnight, so I set my alarm and sure enough, bang on time, I see the ignition. There’s a huge flash, a shattering noise and the pin prick trail of the rocket vanishes in the clouds.
Riyue Bay Surf
Further south, I arrive at Riyue Bay, one of Asia’s emerging surf destinations. A strip of bars, cafés and restaurants overlook the long stretch of sand. Surf schools and rental shops make it easy for newcomers to take the plunge and the waves are fairly gentle.
The hotel where I’m staying also has an artificial wave pool but I prefer the freedom of the ocean and am soon out with the locals. The great thing here is that, unlike many surf shots that are seasonal, favourable conditions exist throughout the year. And after dark the bars come alive with skilled DJ’s providing the music and it becomes party central.
Binglanggu Li & Miao Cultural Heritage Park
Hainan is home to several ethnic minority groups, including the Li and Miao peoples, whose traditions go back for generations. Binglanggu Heritage Park is situated along the Areca Valley surrounded by mountainous forest on either side. It’s designed to provide valuable insight into the island’s cultural diversity and indigenous heritage.
Restored traditional villages house artisans who will teach you weaving and basketry. The streets are full of musicians and dancers and there’s a restaurant where you can eat minority delicacies. The highlight is an open air theatre show with a huge cast that celebrates the culture of the Li and Miao.
Yanoda Tropical Rainforest Park
Covering vast areas of the island’s mountainous interior, the park protects some of the country’s best-preserved tropical rainforest ecosystems. It’s home to an extraordinary variety of plant and animal species, including the critically endangered Hainan gibbon, one of the world’s rarest primates. At its centre, cable cars whisk you up and down and a network of electric carts ferries you around.
A huge glass observation platform, stretching out above the trees, is a great place to get an overview of the park. You can even sit in a swing and be pushed out over the forest. Later, it’s worth taking the 3 km hiking trail through the dense forest to get up close with nature. Breathe cool mountain air, surrounded by colossal trees, walking along misty valleys, to emerge back at the entrance to the park.
Sanya
In the far south of the island, Sanya is a modern resort city sitting on the shores of the South China Sea. Here you’ll find shopping malls and scenic viewpoints, perfect for enjoying a sundowner cocktail, as the city lights up. Better, though, to take a 15 minute boat ride to West Island for peace and quiet There are no cars here and, once the day trippers have left, it’s just you and the locals.
Tiny, at around 3 km long and 1.5 km at its widest, it’s easy to get around either on foot, scooter or golf cart. At its heart is a warren of narrow streets with a small fish market at its centre. This is where the locals shop and where you relax into island life. The coral reefs surrounding the island support vibrant marine life, perfect for underwater exploration
Walking along the shoreline at dusk is particularly rewarding, a winning combination of turquoise water, gentle sea breezes, and blood red skies. Street food stalls line the seafront offering freshly prepared seafood while people pose for selfies. I’ve only one night here and it’s the end of my trip to Hainan.
What makes Hainan truly special is the diversity of experiences available within a relatively compact destination. In a single trip, visitors can walk through the historic streets of Haikou, learn about indigenous traditions, dive coral reefs, unwind at a rainforest resort, and even catch a rocket launch. It certainly beats Hawaii.
Tell Me More About The Tropical Island Of Hainan
Hainan Airlines flies to Haikou, Hainan, via Changsha from London Heathrow. It’s a long flight so upgrade to their excellent business class for extra comfort.
China operates a visa-free policy for UK visitors.
For a list of Hainan tour operators see the Chinese National Tourist Office website
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