Lynne Coates enjoys an island escape to two of Jersey’s finest coastal and countryside hotels.
For us it’s just a hop from Leeds Bradford Airport to Jersey. A one-hour flight and we whisk through Jersey Airport in no time at all. Our rental car is an easy key pick-up, and we are quickly on our way, enjoying the stunning coastal scenery that defines this captivating gem of an island.
Atlantic Hotel
We check into the Atlantic Hotel, one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, located on the west coast of the island. Tucked away down a lane, its breathtaking location reveals itself once we are through the leafy portico. Stretching the length of the property, glass doors open onto glorious, ten-acre gardens, with panoramic views of St Ouen’s Bay, Jersey’s longest beach.
Fans of the island’s famous TV series, Bergerac, will recognise Five Mile Road that runs beside the bay, where the eponymous detective drove his iconic Triumph Roadster. Recently given a reboot, the new series has resurrected both the Triumph and the drama.
Our spacious, contemporary-style room offers far-reaching views over the sky-blue Atlantic Ocean and the adjoining La Moye championship golf course. Nearby, an unspoilt conservation area, Les Mielles, merges nature with the ocean in one magnificent sweep. Our room overlooks the hotel’s pool and dining terrace, tempting us down for a pre-dinner cocktail.
Named Restaurant of the Year in 2023 by the prestigious Pride of Britain Hotels, the Ocean Restaurant holds AA Four Rosette rating, and is renowned for its exceptional cuisine. Soft-blue and cream décor flows throughout the elegant dining room, and tables, discreetly distanced, are arranged to maximise views of the gardens and Jersey’s glorious sunsets.
We choose a wine-pairing menu, with advice from a curated selection by head sommelier, Alexandru. From Sancerre to Sauternes, each wine perfectly compliments the dish it is paired with.
Executive chef, Will Holland, creates seasonal, signature dishes using the island’s finest produce. My fresh, hand-rolled tagliatelle, with asparagus, crème fraiche, chervil, and truffled watercress salad, tastes divine.
Hubby’s roast chicken breast, with Manor Farm vegetables, pea puree, creamy tarragon and wholegrain mustard sauce, is so beautifully presented it looks too good to eat, but he manages to devour the lot! From starters to dessert, the food is superb. A memorable dinner, enhanced by the sensational sunset casting vivid hues over the pool.
Next morning, we enjoy an equally delicious breakfast before departing the Atlantic and heading inland towards the capital, St Helier. En route, we stop for views of the iconic lighthouse at La Corbière, starkly set on a rocky island out at sea. Perched high on the nearby cliffs are bunkers, built by the Germans during the World War ll occupation, now restored by the Channel Islands Occupation Society.
Visitors can see authentic reconstructions of wartime conditions, with interactive exhibits. We stop at St Brelade’s Bay, a popular tourist destination, where we are tempted by a Jersey ice-cream, (impossible to resist!) and take a stroll along the promenade that stretches around the bay’s golden sands. Approaching St Helier, the rugged coastline gives way to an architectural landscape of commercial buildings, signifying Jersey’s offshore International Finance Centre (IFC), its economic hub.
Longueville Manor
We drive through the town to St Saviour, where, in complete contrast to the hubbub of St Helier, we find Longueville Manor immersed in peaceful countryside. This grand, former manor house has been beautifully restored by its present owners, earning it the prestigious Heritage Trophy from Relais & Chateaux.
Bernard, the charming porter, shows us to our room, pointing out all its features with great pride. We arrange to meet him later for a tour of the grounds. The owners, Malcolm and Patricia Lewis, are the third generation of the family to run Longueville, and they have made it their mission to create a hotel that is both intimate and luxurious, blending contemporary comfort with timeless elegance.
The warm ambiance they have created brings loyal returning guests, earning the hotel five AA Red Stars, and a Michelin Key. Hands-on with the day to day running of the hotel, Malcolm is often seen doing a spot of maintenance around the place, and that commitment extends to the staff, who clearly share their love of the property. A proper afternoon tea, with sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, and dainty cakes, served on the terrace by the pool, is a delightful way to begin our stay in this most elegant hotel.
I see some guests with drinks delivered to them as they recline on sunbeds. Others, smartly dressed, are enjoying cocktails. There is an air of refined sophistication, and we enjoy a very pleasant, sunny afternoon.
Later, as promised, we meet up with Bernard who shows us around the grounds. As we pass by the garden spa tucked away in a peaceful corner, I look forward to my massage, booked for the next day. I spot the door to the wine cellar, which, Bernard emphasises, is kept securely locked, although guests can arrange a visit – more on that later. Most impressive is the kitchen garden, one of the largest I have ever seen, with a remarkable variety of vegetables, fruits and herbs.
Head gardener, David, works closely with Longueville’s chefs so they can create seasonal dishes. The hotel’s location, adjacent to the Le Vale Aumé, also known as Swiss Valley, is a beautiful area of woodland with numerous species of trees and thriving wildlife. A path from Longueville allows direct access, perfect for guests to enjoy lovely woodland walks. We take a gentle stroll through the sycamores, English oaks and sweet chestnut trees, before its time to change for dinner.
The dining room in Longueville Manor is distinctively separated, between the 15th-century Oak Room, with historic dark-oak panelling, and the elegant Garden Room. Seated by the window, we have lovely garden views. Dinner, as you would expect from a 3 AA Rosette restaurant, is excellent. Head chef, Andrew Baird, likes to incorporate ‘Classics’ within his menu, so guests have a choice when fine dining. Classics include Royal Bay Oysters and Scallops to start, and for mains, freshly grilled sea bass with Jersey Royals, which we both choose.
With seasonal ingredients available daily from the kitchen garden, chefs can create innovative dishes. My dessert, caramelized garden lemon tart with garden rhubarb and hibiscus sorbet is luscious! Now, about the wine; after dinner, our sommelier, Luca, invites us to visit the wine cellar and we are quick to accept. It is an eye-watering experience as Luca proudly shows us some unique collections.
His knowledge of wines is remarkable, and we see now why the cellar is kept under lock and key! With an incredible 5,500 bottles and 600 wine-list entries, it has probably the best restaurant wine list in the Channel Islands. Longueville is undoubtedly a very special hotel, with that rare combination of professional and friendly service, and the kind of warm ambiance that can only be achieved by the efforts of cherished ownership. It’s no wonder guests return year after year.
Tell me more about two of the Best coast and country hotels in Jersey
Atlantic Hotel: Double occupancy rooms start at £190 per night. Visit the website for ‘Autumn Luxury Break’ special deals.
Longueville Manor: –Rooms start from £200 per room per night in a Standard room in low season, £400 in high season, 20% discount offered when bookings are made and fully pre-paid 14 days prior to arrival (between 1st October and 29th April). Children of all ages are welcome and hotel is pet friendly.
Lynne flew Jet2 from Leeds/Bradford airport
