Anthea Gerrie Travels By the Pacific Surfliner From La’s Iconic Union Station To San Luis Obispo, Gateway To California’s Most Scenic Stretch Of Coast.
It isn’t always easy to let the train take the strain in the USA, where joined-up national networks have been a long time coming. However, in California, which has worked hard to improve its public transport offerings, a really useful train hugs the coast, keeping commuters and visitors off crowded freeways while treating them to thrilling seaside vistas.
The Pacific Surfliner, born with the new millennium, is a surprisingly well-used Amtrak service that runs along 351 miles of southern coast from San Diego to San Luis Obispo via Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and many other stops of major visitor interest in between. With 26 trains a day and a ridership of three million, it traverses what has become the second busiest intercity rail corridor in the US, and is particularly useful if heading for the gorgeous coastal stretch of California Route 1 officially designated a National Scenic Byway.
This starts at San Luis Obispo, where cars can be rented by drivers who will have saved themselves navigating 4-6 hours of tedious and often congested freeway from southern California’s international gateways.
Often overlooked by visitors for lack of time and awareness are the worthwhile stops between Los Angeles and San Diego, starting with the historic offerings of the latter’s Old Town, which has its own station. North lies Solana Beach with its craft breweries and galleries, a favourite with racegoers who can connect to a free shuttle for the nearby track at Del Mar, one of America’s most picturesque. Oceanside, by contrast, is one of many small California beach towns which remain a local secret, a hub of surfing culture with a proper wooden pier.
Better known is historic San Juan Capistrano, its exquisite mission considered the jewel in the long string of 18th century religious settlements established by Spanish priests stretching up the coast. When it comes to modern history, Anaheim station makes light work of bringing kids to Disneyland, thanks to the free transfer buses which connect the train with America’s most iconic theme park.
I boarded in Los Angeles for the sheer pleasure of exploring Union Station, one of the city’s most beautiful art deco buildings as well as the last great American railroad palace in the west. No wonder it offers guided tours, but even as a passenger rushing through you can appreciate nods to the golden era of rail travel in old-fashioned departure boards and leather-armchaired waiting areas.
In a city so devoted to automobiles, it’s amazing that more than 100,000 passengers a day still follow in the footsteps of the Hollywood stars who once boarded the Super Chief here to travel from the fifth-busiest station in the whole national Amtrak system.
While our own Pacific Surfliner rather disappointingly mimicked British Rail with dusty rather than gleamingly transparent picture windows, its seats were comfortable in Business Class where we sat and were offered complimentary drinks and snacks. And it would be more than 90 minutes in any case before we got a chance to enjoy the thrilling coastal views we came in search of, as the train trundled inland through a swathe of LA dormitory suburbs before we finally caught sight of the sea in Ventura.
Worth mentioning, though, is that Burbank station is right next to Hollywood-Burbank Airport, a useful alternative to LAX for domestic flights, while Camarillo is a favourite shopping destination for Angelenos with more than 100 big-brand outlet stores.
The half-hour between Ventura and Carpinteria is a thrilling ride, the track bringing the ocean close enough to dip into, practically, and the latter is well worth a stop to visit seals at play on the beach with little shops and restaurants within walking distance of the station. Even closer to the action is the station in much bigger, posher and also more obviously beautiful Santa Barbara, awash in colonial architecture, art museums and a vibrant wharfside dining scene.
A complete contrast to Lompoc-Surf further north, where shark sightings are possible from the train, which thunders along within feet of the waves pounding Surf Beach.
Keep going to Guadalupe for coastal dunes, and save appetite for clam chowder at Pismo, only 2 1/2 miles from the penultimate station at Grover Beach. Also within an Uber ride of Grover Beach station is the Monarch Butterfly Grove offering wondrous sightings of the winged beauties between October and February.
Do linger awhile in SLO, as locals call San Luis Obispo, to enjoy the lively and unpretentious college town atmosphere before taking the coast road north. The city is the jumping-off point for the wineries of the Edna Valley, a short drive away, and inland Paso Robles accessible via a 40-minute bus ride from San Luis Obispo and home to great restaurants as well as yet more award-winning wineries. One more reason to let the train and the buses which serve it take the strain out of reaching the culinary as well as scenic glories of California’s central coast.
Tell Me More About Travelling On The Pacific Surfliner
Travelling On The Pacific Surfliner. Fares to San Luis Obispo from Los Angeles start at $54, but those heading all the way can bag a 20% discount by registering with SLOCarFree.org in advance of travel. All passengers travelling to or from Los Angeles during the World Cup can get a 20% discount on any fare, and there are reductions for children and the over-62s.
More information at Pacficsurfliner, Visit California and Visit The USA
