Solange Berchemin offers her personal guide to Arts in Arles, southern France’s magnet for artists for centuries.
Arles is a historic town with deep connections with famous creatives such as Vincent Van Gogh, Christian Lacroix, Frank Gehry to mention but a few. Arles, capital of the culture camarguaise, is often overshadowed by the flamboyance of its better-known neighbours. But,‘Un vent de nouveauté souffle sur Arles’ and it’s time for Arles to shine.
Arles Festivals
Arles’ Arts festivals calendar is a busy one. Best known for its summer photography festival, Les Rencontres d’Arles. The town also hosts a long line of celebrations, the newest of which happens around Easter, it’s Le Festival du Dessin. Les Suds, often in July, showcases the best world music with performances in the historic venues such as the Roman Theatre.
Although Arles’ infrastructure accommodates a large number of tourists, these busy times can often be slightly chaotic. It is much quieter to visit outside these periods, when the weather is still warm, but the crowd is away, autumn and early spring, for example, although I found that restaurants and even some shops tend to close early in winter.
To appreciate and understand Provençal culture, the festival ‘not to miss’ is La Fête du Costume in July. It was initiated by local Novel Prize winner and Occitan poet Frédéric Mistral in the 19th century. Mistral (no connection with his windy namesake) was concerned about the demise of traditions. His specific worry was that the traditional, complex, and beautiful Arlesian costume was fading in favour of Parisian styles. The first fête was an unexpected success. It gave Arlesiennes the opportunity to rival Parisian/French fashion and to parade in their beautiful traditional finery. To this day, women in Arles take to the festival whole heartily.
A Must: Fragonard Fashion And Costume Museum Image of costume museum videorama/medallions
On July 25, three hundred years after Mistral’s campaign, Arles opened the Fragonard museum, introducing it in its catalogue as:‘Situated in one of the typical small streets, bathed in light, like a peaceful apparition in the heart of Arles. Now transformed into a museum of Fashion and Costume, the Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy has not only stood the test of time: it embodies it.’ It’s not small, but it’s a beautifully restored space with a magnificent grand staircase and hosts permanent and temporary exhibitions
The visit starts with a dimly lit corridor revealing a window where a mannequin dressed in a sumptuous satin costume turns very slowly. La Grande Gallerie, unveils the history of Arlesian fashion in a chronological order: jewellery, ribbons, lace, textiles and clothing emerge like an intriguing catwalk. A slideshow of black and white medallions showcases each gesture needed to dress in a traditional costume. Image of dresses in the costume museum
A stone’s throw away La Maison Fragonard perfumery adds to a sense of wonder through olfactory sensations.
To complete the fashion tour, make sure to take a look inside the Hotel Jules Caesar, a former Carmélite convent redecorated by Christian Lacroix, a native of the area, whose style is renowned for its bold, bright colours and theatrical influence. I was told that non-residents are welcomed.
Luma: Architecture, Art And Science image of Luma Tower
In a town where history and traditions weigh heavily, a 57 metres tall tower cladded with 11,000 stainless steel panels was bound to attract its detractors. LUMA is an extra-ordinary piece of architecture. Each tile is individual, each is arranged to reflect the light, a nod to Vincent Van Gogh. Inside some wall tiles made out of salt from the nearby Camargue, a double-slide installation lets you reach the ground floor, don’t worry, there are lifts and staircases too..
The LUMA’s function is to host exhibitions of major artists. The vast former railway wasteland is also a multidisciplinary arts and sciences campus. Le Parc des Ateliers is where scientists and artists in residence work on new materials and where the likes of you and me come to picnic by the small lake or near the skate park. The ensemble was designed by the late Frank Gehry, architect of the iconic Guggenheim museum in Bilbao and much more.
Other Highlights
The history of Arles dates back to Julius Caesar, who nicknamed the settlement ‘the Little Rome of the Gauls’. Here are some of the top sites to visit:
The arena: this incredibly well-preserved ancient monument is unique for can accommodate up to 20,000 spectators. The ancient theatre: built in the 1st century BC, both monuments are still used today, their functions true to the Roman times, sports in the arena, arts in the ancient theatre.
Don’t miss St Trophime cloister, a particularly remarkable example of Romanesque Provençal architecture.
Vincent Van Gogh Legacy
In 1888/1889, Vincent Van Gogh, attracted by the quality of the natural light, stayed 14 months in Arles. It was his most prolific period; he produced 300 paintings and 100 drawings. Although he didn’t succeed in fulfilling his dream of establishing an artistic community, he did however, put Arles on the Arts map. Ironically, nowadays, it is what Arles is celebrated for. Van Gogh’s presence is still very strong throughout the city. Here are two examples: The Van Gogh Foundation and the Espace Van Gogh dedicated to the artist memory. You might also spot a sculpture representing his bust in the summer garden.
My personal favourite is the Tourism Office free app self-itinerary which takes you the spots where the artist set his easel and gives a background for each of his picture. Individual posters with a representation of the paintings mark the spot.
Food Is Art Too
My personal highlights:
La Maison Genin, 11 rue des Porcelet, they make their ‘saucisson d’Arles’ from the same secret recipe since 1877, it is exceptional, they also offer cooked specialities, handy for Airb&b visitors. Image of maison genin
Arles market spreads over two kilometres on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It is a typical Provençal market and one of the most beautiful. You’ll need to make space in your luggage for herbs, seasoned salts and souvenirs.
And if that was not enough, wandering in the cobbled side lanes is a delight. Rue de la République, don’t miss Aux Bonbons, where hundreds of sweets will take you back to your childhood or take a seat and relax with a light lunch at Mon Chou, Place Voltaire.
Tell Me More About Arts in Arles
Getting there:
By Rail: On the French network change at Nimes central to Arles, trains are not always on time so factor in a potential delay.
By Air : Ryan Air operates from Marseille Provence airport. Check other airports such as Nimes and Montpellier.
Recommended Stay:
For our base, we stayed at the Mercure Arles Centre Arenes 1 Rue Emile Fassin. The location is perfect for sightseeing. It offers a car park for residents and a swimming pool with views of the town. Recently refurbished in a peaceful Provençal palette of soft colours finished with wicker-works ceiling lights. Rooms are spacious and service attentive. Breakfast cost €15 and is extremely copious.
My warm thanks to Arles Tourist Office staff who helped me to prepare for this trip. Their office is on Boulevard des Lices, they offer maps, leaflets, tickets and all the information you’ll need to enjoy your stay. The Pass Advantage ticket is Valid for 6 months; it gives you access to 6 UNESCO listed monuments and 4 museums. Other tickets are available
