The Palacete Severo. Uncover Porto’s Luxurious Little Palace.

Michael Edwards discovers Palacete Severo, an exquisite “little palace”, a soul sanctuary, in Porto.

Like the Taj Mahal, the Palacete Severo was built with love, for love.

In 1902, political exile Ricardo Severo, returning from Brazil to Porto, designed a “little palace” for Francisca his Brazilian new wife. In the wooden panel of the library, their carved initials are entwined like lovers’ bodies.

The regal stone palace, a welcoming Mediterranean yellow, was architect Severo’s paean to his beloved homeland; created with azulejo tiles, carved staircases, loggia and stained-glass windows. A majestic, high-ceilinged expression of optimism for a new century for both Porto and Portugal.

Now, in another century, new life has been breathed into the Palacete Severo, an oasis of tranquil stillness in the heart of Porto. It opened as a 5* boutique hotel – and also as an art gallery – in October 2024. For new owner Geraldine Banier the Palacete Severo is an annexe to her Parisien Gallery. Throughout the Palacete Severo the art adorning the walls, and the sculptures in the gardens, are for sale.

There are eleven rooms of quiet understated luxury in the original house. Wicker headboards – and oak floors with a mature patina of more than a century’s footfall – create a sense of history.

A further nine rooms in the new extension tempt guests to check out of everyday life and check in to the Palacete’s exquisite lifestyle.

Chef Tiago Bonito is developing the hotel’s restaurants into a homage to Portuguese food and wine. Gaining a Michelin star at his previous restaurant, Bonito’s creative vision of a culinary journey through Portugal will surely bring Michelin recognition to Eon, the Palacete’s fine dining restaurant.

Already little touches are elevating Eon towards greatness. Each guest is handed an envelope with a postcard of the menu, signed by Bonito. Plus, a cardholder so that they can stand-up the card to keep track of the courses.

Bonito’s tasting menus are made up of “Moments” rather than courses. Some are memories of family life growing up in Coimbra. Others of learning his trade along the Algarve: a ceviche prawn and a hook caught hake.

He also honours the Portuguese explorers who created a far-flung empire; Bonito’s tuna is caught off the Azores, whilst Madeira wine helps bind the two hemispheres of a delicate cheese and chestnut macaron. Alongside the tasting menus of nine or fourteen courses, Eon offers a wine flight. Obviously sourced from Portugal’s finest vineyards.

A covered courtyard of azulejo tiles, stained glass and sculpted water feature hosts the Bistro which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. As with every meal at the Palacete, there are stories behind breakfast. The salted butter is from the Azores. Whilst beans from Arabia, Columbia and Ethiopia are ground and blended onsite to create the morning coffee.

After breakfast guests at the Palacete tend to linger, not quite ready to step back into the raucous 21st century. Perhaps visiting the spa for a soothing treatment, taking in the Himalayan Salt room, the steam room or swimming in the heated outdoor pool. Or perhaps they are just waiting to see what Bonito has created for the menu of the day at lunchtime?

If guests can drag themselves away from the soul sanctuary that is the Palacete Severo, Porto awaits. It is a short walk to the Casa de Musica which is just past the bus-stop for the hop-on, hop-off the City Sightseeing buses.

Presenting an overall perspective, the Red Line passes through Boavista on its way to the huge Atlantic rollers crashing onto the white sands of Foz’s beaches. From there the bus heads up the River Douro to the steep winding medieval cobbles of Ribeira. Switching to the blue line, the bus crosses into Gaia, south of the Douro for a spot of tasting in the port houses. Then back to Ribeira, rejoining the blue line, to explore more churches, museums and the vast urban market.

Walking back through the ancient white barked cameilla trees in the Palacete Severo’s gardens, the bar calls. Mixologist Pedro is always eager to adapt and develop cocktails, foraging in the Palacete’s gardens for botanicals, sometimes using Granny Smith puree to avoid sweet cocktail syrup, favouring ginger ale over soda water for more of a spicy bite. “But it is impossible to improve an Old Fashioned. It is my favourite cocktail. And it is perfect,” Pedro definitively announces.

Palacete Severo takes in travellers and welcomes them as guests. Sharing Porto’s past and present with a privileged handful. It is an architect’s dream house where love took shape in the artistry of stone, tile and glass. Now it has been reborn, given a reverent renaissance.

Palacete images photo credit: Rupert Eden