Anna Smith reviews Funchal’s Castanheiro Boutique Hotel, a stylish retreat in Madeira’s capital.
If I’m staying in a European city hotel, I look for two things first: a central location and a rooftop pool with a view. Castanheiro Boutique Hotel delivers both with ease. Just off the City Hall square in Madeira’s Funchal, it’s walking distance from the cathedral, the sea, the cable car and a couple of tasty vintage clothing shops I discover on my wanders.
And the roof? Fabulous. We arrive early, and enjoy a complimentary glass of Madeira wine by the jacuzzi, overlooking the heated pool with spectacular views of the city. Relaxing in the heart of the action: that’s the way to go.
The hotel houses 81 bedrooms and a spa in five historically classified buildings. The reception features beautiful 18th century architecture. Saunter through to the bar next door and you’ll find yourself in a more modern setting, where the buildings were used for the printing and textile industries. Both are paid tribute to in intriguing glass cases lining the lounge area and the bar: we enjoy looking at vintage packaging for items as diverse as pens, fireworks and Christmas crackers.
The printing legacy continues in the name of Castanheiro’s restaurant, Tipografia, whose menu sits atop a gorgeous old cabinet that was used in the trade. Tipografia has indoor seating as well as attractive courtyard seating and a Mediterranean menu with some bold touches. It’s also the setting for a breakfast buffet that includes local fruit, a cooked breakfast, eggs or omelette and that welcome Madeira staple: bubbly. The hotel also hosts events throughout the year, celebrating Madeiran culture, music and gastronomy.
Our room is on the fourth floor and has a balcony with a lovely view of the city and the mountains. The bathroom has a shower; the bed is the kind you sink into gladly, and my request for feather pillows is met with cheerfully and promptly – and all this via WhatsApp, without need to pick up the phone or head downstairs, although the reception staff are terrific in person, too.
Castanheiro Boutique Hotel has a sister restaurant, Enseada Restaurant, and the hotel are glad to arrange a taxi there for us to check it out. Further down the coast, it’s a stylish beachside eaterie with characterful servers, great food and cocktails. I love my “Gringa y Piscos” with sliced grilled beef, and my husband’s delicious Tartare is prepared and seasoned by our server at the table. We wash it down with a good red wine, finishing with brownies and ice cream served with decorative floral touches.
Madeira is known for its Levada hikes, and Funchal is an easy pick up point for guides: another feather in the cap for Castanherio’s location. It’s also a short walk from the nearest tour bus stop: the Yellow Bus Tour takes us up into the hills and back for a delightful visit to Camara de Lobos and Cabo Girao.
Castanheiro Boutique Hotel is a stylish, relaxing base in Madeira – whether you’re exploring Funchal or chilling by that pool.
Tell Me More About Castanheiro Boutique Hotel
Castanheiro Boutique Hotel, Rua do Castanheiro nº 31, 9000-081 Funchal Madeira.
T:351 291 200 100 (National landline call) E: info@castanheiroboutiquehotel.com
Rooms start at around €190 for a standard room for bed and breakfast.
British Airways and EasyJet fly direct to Funchal from London Gatwick.
Photos: Castanheiro and Ben Robards
