Andy Mossack eats at the new Dim Sum Library. A far cry from dusty bookshelves, it’s a modern take on classic dim sum.
Considering the Dim Sum Library had only opened its doors three days prior it was going great guns for a Thursday night. The cocktails were flowing and the dim sum was being dished out relentlessly. And there was no sign of any opening week chaos. Notable first impressions.
Then again, I shouldn’t have been surprised, This was the latest outpost from David Yeo’s Aqua Group, who have a storied portfolio of over twenty restaurants and bars across Hong Kong, New York and London. Hutong at The Shard, and Shiro in Broadgate Circle (both of which we reviewed here in TripReporter) are both London stand outs.
So, no stranger to opening nerves then.
Literally a hop and a skip from Covent Garden or Leicester Square underground stations on Long Acre, Dim Sum Library is the first international sibling of the original restaurant in Hong Kong. It may not have the sweeping views of Hong Kong harbour of its older sister but make no mistake the main restaurant is an extraordinarily cavernous space with a huge open counter stretching the entire length of the restaurant.
A veritable army of chefs are busy here creating various dim sum specialities by hand while further down there’s a bar section devoted to cocktails and tea infusions; the contents of which are inspired by the chinoiserie style craze in the 18th century when copying intricate Far Eastern design was a thing. Expect exotic tea creations such as the Chinese Whisper – Fenjiu baijiu, Kalhua, shitake bitters and a blend of five different Chinese spices.
It was not without a high degree of anticipation that we took our seats in the main restaurant, eager to sample the kind of Cantonese sharing plates that have caused such culinary waves in Hong Kong. And by the looks of the table, it was set up with all the tools we needed; two bowls, one large and one small, a plate and a pair of chopsticks. The lack of knifes and forks were clues this could be an authentic experience.
The menu was clearly marked, with a page of chef’s recommended, followed by separate listings of appetisers, dim sum, cheung fun (steamed rice noodle rolls), mains, rice and noodles, vegetables and desserts. I kept the old adage in mind at this point – remember you can always add more if needed – so a cautious start was called for.
We kicked off with smashed cucumber (£7), a cold dish with a pile of batonnet cuts of cucumber in a spicy Sichuan mala sauce, and a colourful plate of wild mushroom & beetroot dumplings (£10). The cucumbers were simple but delightfully spicy, and the trio of red dumplings from the dim sum menu were crowned with little flecks of gold as if these tasty morsels each had royal trappings.
We noticed our neighbours devouring a shared plate of crispy balls of cod fillets (£36) which we had to copy and they didn’t disappoint. Piled up and doused in a tangy sauce, the chunks of cod coated in a delightful light batter and deep fried. Delicious.
A couple of delights from the chef’s recommended list were up next. Dan dan xiaolong bao (£10) three steamed bao dumplings which were unexpectedly filled with chicken and hot gravy. Very moreish. Wagyu beef pufs (£14) which I can only describe as mini Cornish pasties with a generous sprinkling of black pepper. And very tasty they were too.
Another from the dim sum menu next, crispy fried purple cabbage roll (£10). This was a real showstopper for me. Essentially two large spring rolls but sliced diagonally in two and fried in such a delicate light batter they were utterly delicious.
We were getting pretty full by now, but there were still a few dishes on the must try list. Dai-ching Sichuan chicken (£18) a plate of really spicy chicken chunks surrounded by red chillies. Perhaps not one for the timid eater but I loved it.
Some cheung fun now: roasted pork, coriander and spring onion (£12) which came wrapped in three almost transparent rice noodle rolls. We had to cut them in half using the chopsticks as they were so delicate, but well worth the effort.
Our final flourish was a trio of pistachio lava chocolate mochi (£8). Three stretchy chewy rice cake balls almost akin to marshmallows, filled with dark chocolate. They’re often treats served around New Year to bring good fortune and for us, they rounded off our feast very well.
Dim Sum Library is not the kind of place to linger over a long lunch or dinner as would be the case at Hutong or Shiro. I think it’s more relevant either as a quick pre or post theatre meal perhaps, or for a few tasty snacks while you’re out and about in Covent Garden. The all-day service is fast and efficient and there’s certainly more than enough tasty choices to suit all palates.
It’s also something of a genius move by Yeo to place it close but far enough away from London’s hectic Chinatown district to make it stand out from the crowd.
All food images (C) Andy Mossack
Tell me more about the Dim Sum Library.
Dim Sum Library, 136 Long Acre, London WC2E 9AD
T: 020 3953 6820 Reservations
Restaurant Hours
Monday – Thursday 12:00pm – 10:30pm
Friday 12:00pm – 10:00pm Saturday 12:00am – 10:30pm
Sunday 12:00am – 9:00pm
