Sarah Kingdom travels to Hermanus on South Africa’s Whale Coast, and discovers a destination where breaching whales, vineyard lunches, coastal trails and boutique comfort come together in one seaside escape.
Set along the rugged cliffs of Walker Bay, around two hours from Cape Town, the coastal town of Hermanus began its life not as a luxury seaside escape, but as a modest fishing village. Named in 1855 after Dutch teacher Hermanus Pieters, who, long before the town existed, regularly spent school holidays in the area, fishing and grazing his sheep.
The town later evolved into a fishing hub, and then interest in whale watching arrived, changing everything. In modern times, Hermanus has become one of the world’s foremost land-based whale-watching destinations, marrying seaside charm with wonderful wilderness spectacle.
Land-Based Whale Watching
Hermanus is world-famous for its excellent whale watching; it even hosts an annual whale festival every September. Between early June and late November, the shallow waters of Walker Bay become a nursery for Southern right whales giving you a front-row seat to the spectacle, without even needing to get on board a boat.
A 12-kilometre Cliff Path winds along the town’s rugged coastline, offering numerous dramatic vantage points where you can watch whales breach just metres from the rocks. The path goes past several beaches and a beautiful rock pool, with just the briefest of detours onto a main road, and there are several look-out points labelled “Whale-Watching Spot”. Along with the Southern right whales, it’s not uncommon to spot Humpback and Bryde’s whales on your walk as well.
The Cliff Path is well-maintained. There are some undulations, but no major climbs, and several sections are wheelchair accessible. And of course, you don’t have to do the entire 12 kilometres! You can start and stop wherever you like.
(If you want to get out on the water for some whale watching, head to Marine Dynamics at Kleinbaai/Gansbaai, a 40-minute drive from Hermanus, for a Marine Big 5 tour or some shark cage diving)
Gearing’s Point
Gearing’s Point, once a lookout for fishermen returning to Old Harbour, now offers some of the best whale-watching views in Hermanus. Historically, it provided onlookers with a perfect vantage point to see the boats and their catch. As the focus shifted to whale watching, a coin-operated telescope was installed, enhancing the viewing experience.
Voëlklip and Grotto Beach
On the outskirts of Hermanus, Voëlklip is a beloved holiday destination tucked between the majestic mountains and the sparkling sea. Its main attraction, Grotto Beach, stretches for kilometres, and is wonderful for long, long, long beach walks.
Hiking in Fernkloof Nature Reserve
In the hills above Hermanus lies the Fernkloof Nature Reserve, rising from sea level to 842 m, spanning 1,800 hectares, and protecting more than 1,300 plant species, including fynbos, the unique flora of the Cape region. More than 60 km of trails thread through the reserve, down gorges, over ridges and through wild-flower meadow, with lookout decks offering sweeping views of the ocean and valley below. Whether you opt for a gentle walk or a full-day hike, the reserves is one of South Africa’s most compact yet biodiverse natural settings.
Wine Tasting in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley
Hemel-en-Aarde quite literally translates as “Heaven and Earth,” and after exploring some of the wineries here yourself, I’m sure you’ll agree the name is pretty apt. Just a short drive from Hermanus, the valley is absolutely gorgeous, and the wineries here are doing some rather exciting and innovative things with their grapes! As an added bonus, it’s much quieter than Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, where most tourists seem to head for their winery experiences.
The Bosman Hermanus winery sits high up in the valley, and with its cool-climate terroir, is known for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The minimalist style Frame House is a wonderful tasting venue, with sweeping views of vines, mountains and fynbos. Their wine tasting, paired with small plates, is highly recommended.
Golf at Arabella Country Estate
Just outside town, the award-winning Arabella Country Estate features a championship-level golf course designed for players who want both challenge and landscape. With sweeping views of the Kogelberg Mountains, twin lakes and Walker Bay glinting in the distance, the course is a definite draw for golf-travellers.
Recommended Stay in Hermanus
For your base in Hermanus, the Hermanus Boutique Guest House is a quietly stylish launch pad for all Hermanus activities. With sea-view rooms, friendly service and a full breakfast to set you up before an early cliff-walk or vineyard tour, it hits the sweet spot for comfort and location. Located metres from the Cliff Path and the popular Fick’s Pool (a natural rock pool with crystal clear blues waters perfect for a refreshing swim), the guesthouse is walking distance from numerous great restaurants, and a short drive from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley and the Arabella golf course. It’s the perfect location.
There are 19 beautifully appointed suites and rooms, with rates starting from £135 / US$180. If possible, opt for one of the sea-facing suites, which offer the fabulous opportunity to watch whales without even needing to get out of bed!
Tell me more about visiting Hermanus on the Whale Coast.
Whether pausing for a whale sighting, hiking in the fynbos, sipping a crisp Hemel-en-Aarde Chardonnay or strolling the Cliff Path binoculars in hand, in Hermanus you’ll discover a place that offers a lot.
Bosman Hermanus Winery
