In his Insider Guide to Old Delhi, Andy Mossack uncovers the very best parts of India’s ancient Moghul capital.
“There are eighty languages spoken in India, but the car horn is the eighty first and everyone understands that one”. Wise words from my guide as we navigated Old Delhi, officially known as Shahjahanabad, in a pedal-powered rickshaw. “So, I need a good horn, a good brake and good luck!” I replied.
It was early evening and the start of Diwali, twin factors in making these packed streets even more chaotic and colourful than you would usually find. And that’s saying something.
Delhi is many tourists’ first impression of India, and it never disappoints. It manages their expectations perfectly. A spectacle of colour, sound and noise, it’s the chaos of India in a nutshell.
But believe it or not, Old Delhi has a real charm about it amongst all the mayhem. There is a beating heart at its core which, when found, transforms all the madness into a thing of real beauty.
You simply need to know where to look and then be prepared to go all in, hook line and sinker.
During my recent trip around India, I’ve travelled through Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat and Kerala, through cities, towns and countryside, and witnessed utterly mesmerising moments. But my Old Delhi moments keep coming back to me like a well-worn blanket, and now I’m sharing them with you.
Enjoy.
Chandni Chowk
Old Delhi’s main artery is Chandni Chowk. The name translates as Moonlight Square, and originally it was a halfmoon square in front of the old town hall where a pool used to reflect its façade in the moonlight. Today the building has sadly seen better days, yet it remains protected and there are high hopes of future renovation perhaps as a heritage hotel.
That said, Chandri Chowk has become the catch-all name for the area all around the long avenue that runs from the Lahori Gate of the Red Fort which was at one time at the east side of the old walled city, across to the Fatehpuri Mosque over on the west side. It is all essentially one of the oldest and biggest markets in Old Delhi, full of teeming bazars on both sides, each supplying specific products. A street of wedding dress shops? Sure. How about shoes. Of course. The same goes for electrical items, dental equipment, spices, glasses, gold, jewellery, linens and more.
Go there in the early evening and you’ll get your snapshot of the chaos of Old Delhi. It’s a wide avenue with cars, rickshaws and tuk-tuks fighting for spaces on both sides so crossing it is an adventure in itself. Navigation tip: jump up onto the narrow, raised platform along the centre divider for some temporary respite! The centre divide has its own little piece of history, as it was once a remarkable Mughal-era canal which brought fresh water to the city from the Yamuna River about 75 away. The British eventually paved it over in the 1800s to make it the main street it is today.
Street Food Heaven
At 1795 Dariba Corner on Chandri Chowk you’ll find the legendary Jalebi Wala street food outlet, probably the best freshly fried samosas (crunchy veggie parcels) and jalebi (doughnuts) in Delhi. At R25 (20p) per item, you really can’t go wrong.
Also, just by here is a narrow alley famous for its fresh stuffed paratha outlets. These are delicious Indian flatbreads stuffed with a choice of fillings (including plenty of vegetarian options) and served on a tray of curry. Don’t be put off by the run-down look of these outlets, this is a piece of vintage Delhi and these family-owned cafes have been passed down through generations. This is no tourist ploy, these tiny, cramped places have served the likes of famous world leaders to Hollywood and Bollywood celebrities and even Ghandi. The food here is freshly cooked, cheap and utterly delicious.
One more foodie stop worth mentioning is Giani’s di Hatti on Church Mission Road. This is where you’ll get to taste delicious chole bhature, an Indian staple for breakfast lunch and dinner. Chole is a slow cooked chick pea curry served with a bhature which is an Indian flat bread but deep fried in ghee which blows it up like a bread bubble. They add a side of rajma chawal too (rice and kidney beans). All good healthy fibre!
Gadodia Market Perhaps the World’s Biggest Spice Market
No trip to Old Delhi would be complete without visiting Gadodia market building, certianly Asia’s biggest wholesale spice market and arguably the World’s. This chaotic narrow indoor labrynth of spice merchants is an assault on the senses as well as your nose, so if you’re sensitive to dust in the form of raw spices beware! You ‘ll be dodging and weaving past porters with giant hessian sacks of spices on their heads who will not stop for anybody or anything to get their delivery done. It’s a riot of colour and men haggling with deals done and goods exchanged seemingly without a paper receipt in sight.
Inbetween bouts of haggling the merchants stretch out on the sacks and rest. Frankly, it’s impossible to know just how these people manage to do this day in and day out without wearing a mask. That said, this is an unmissable experience, but just don’t stay too long!
A Dream Haveli.
One of the delights of India is its traditional heritage properties that have been repurposed into hotels. One excellent example is a haveli, which is not a palace, but a former family mansion of a wealthy merchant or nobleman from the Mughal era. You’ll find Haveli Dharampura hidden away in Gali Guliyan, a narrow back lane in Old Delhi. Not only is it now a fabulous boutique hotel, but it is also the recipient of a UNESCO award for cultural heritage conservation.
Haveli Dharampura was once a prestigious mansion built in 1887 as a family home, but over generations it became neglected and laid abandoned for years. Fortunately, Vijay Goel, a New Delhi politician, recognising its potential, began a six-year labour of love to restore it using traditional materials and techniques into a glorious luxury property with just 14 impeccable rooms.
My spacious Diwan-E-Khas room seeped old world charm with antique furniture and even a giant padlock to secure the room.
Downstairs the elegant open courtyard lounge doubles as part of the Lakhori restaurant, a dining experience that has achieved legendary status in Delhi. Particularly the tasting menu. Last but not least is the roof top terrace, the perfect place for a sundowner with a handsome view and sounds of old Delhi.
Haveli Dharampura also engages you with some traditional activities like kite flying (I had one with my name on it) pigeon flying, and traditional dance shows each evening.
Best of all, you can walk to Chandri Chowk and the Red Fort. Just make sure you remember where to get back to, as the haveli has a very discreet entrance in an even more discreet back lane!
Which is exactly what I did back in my pedal powered rickshaw. Hiral, my pedal driver, was hopelessly stuck in a Diwali traffic snarl up of epic proportions. “You’d be better off walking Mr. Andy, it’s just a few minutes’ walk away”. A mission I accepted with both hands. And indeed, it was shortish. A few diversions to escape thrown firecrackers exploding to the left and right, and the tiny entrance signalled I was safely back in the welcoming arms of Haveli Dharampura.
Images (C) Andy Mossack and Haveli Dharampura.
Tell me more about this Insider Guide to Old Delhi.
Experience Travel Group
This Insider Guide to Old Delhi forms part of Andy’s epic 4-part Indian Odyssey series around Gujarat, Rajasthan, Delhi and Uttar Pradesh, which was curated in collaboration with Experience Travel Group, experts in creating bespoke travel across Asia and beyond. If you want to follow in any of Andy’s adventurous footsteps in India or curate a different Asian experience for yourself call them on 0203 993 2054 or visit Experience Travel Group
To find out more about this Insider Guide to Old Delhi and other destinations in India please go to Discover Incredible India the official India tourist portal.
Haveli Dharampura Gianni’s Di Hatti Jalebi Walla
Getting to India
Throughout his Indian Odyssey series Andy flew with Air India. A direct flight from London Heathrow to Delhi, from Delhi to Ahmedabad, Rajkot to Kochi and Kochi to London Heathrow via Mumbai.
Air India is the largest carrier between India and the UK, operating nearly 1.7 million seats annually on routes between the two countries. As part of its Northern Winter 2025 schedule, the airline announced a fourth daily flight between Delhi and London Heathrow with all flights now operated by its new Airbus A350-900 and Boeing 787-9 aircraft.
The airline also introduced its new global menu in November, curated by Chef Sandeep Kalra, who was tasked with combining the flavours of India with influences from global cuisines. It includes signature Indian dishes such as Murgh Massalam and Gen-Z delights like Chicken Bibimbap and has already been introduced on most international ex-India routes, including flights from Delhi to London Heathrow.
