Old Luxters Farmhouse. A Luxurious Stay, Vineyard Tour And Tastings At Henley-on-Thames.

Michael Edwards stays at Old Luxters Farmhouse, sipping wine poolside, possibly England’s most luxurious “shed.”

Whit Sunday 1152. The day it all went wrong for English vineyards.

Henry ll married Eleanor of Acquitaine pushing English wine into second place, as a flow of Bordeaux crossed the channel. Nor did the chill of the subsequent “Little Ice Age” help English wine production.

Now English wine is back.

Head seven miles north of Henley-on-Thames to sample the Renaissance of English wine. A visit to Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery, with a stay at Old Luxters Farmhouse, presents a vision of a flourishing industry.

Back in 1980, maritime lawyer David Ealand escaped from the city to purchase a pig farm. Soil analysis suggested that the terroir would be better suited to growing rhubarb … or grapes. Goodbye pigs.

For Old Luxters’ five acres were sat on a swirl of clay, limestone, marl and oyster fossils running from Chablis, through the Champagne region, to the south of England. Since the Ealand family’s first harvest back in 1982, not only has the winery grown, it has also diversified into brewing ales and distilling spirits too. Nor, should we forget Lucie Ealand’s homemade jams and chutneys available in a Cellar Shop crammed with temptation.

Clearly this is not a place for a fleeting visit. After the tour and tastings, visitors linger in the courtyard taking an ale flight or wine flight to catch up on drinks not covered in their tastings.

Old Luxters Farmhouse of brick, flint, timbers, nooks and crannies – all quintessentially characterful Chilterns – features four cosy country-style rooms with views over the vineyard, courtyard or gardens. En-suite bathrooms are unusually spacious. On the ground floor guests share a lounge and take their cooked-to-order breakfasts in a room overlooking the courtyard.

And the name Luxters? Origins are lost in time’s annals, but the Ealand family think it derives from a place name probably associated with a local family name.

Then there is the Pool House Shed with exclusive access to a secluded 12 metres pool, heated from May to September to 28 centigrade: the hot-tub and sauna are available all year-round. Pool side furniture is in place for an ale or wine overlooking the pool. Beneath the SMART TV, and close to the Nespresso coffeemaker, sits a fridge for keeping milk fresh and wines, purchased from the shop, chilled.

Surprisingly, a light ruby Pinot Noir, created by South-African born winemaker Jared could be, when briefly chilled, one of the wines of the summer. Few visitors resist Luxters Barn Ale, rumoured to be one of the late Prince Phillip’s favourites, and recipient of a royal warrant proudly displayed in the brewery.

Guests who take the morning vineyard tour usually stay for lunch from the cornflower blue food truck in the cobbled courtyard. Whilst afternoon tour guests arrive early, perhaps for a sharing board, a charcuterie pizza or fish tacos. It’s a social spot with cyclists and walkers from the Chiltern Cycleway dripping into recharge.

There are vineyard tours, then there is the Chiltern Valley Winery and Brewery tour and tasting. Guides Helen and James, take us to a 2.5-acre parcel of vines, a mini-Chablis, on a south-facing slope sheltered by tall beech trees and nightly patrolled by bats who devour insects.

Some 70 awards on since the first harvest in 1982, David Ealand has progressed from novice to consultant, giving advice to new English vineyards. Although it only takes a day to pick the annual crop, with help from family and locals. Chiltern Valley Winery’s now presses grapes and bottles wines for many other vineyards.

The tasting takes in four wines, four ales and four spirits. Helen gives us advice on how to taste: assessing colour, swirling to aerate and pointing us towards citrus fruit flavours and long finishes. “The more you taste, the better you get,” she encourages. It’s an education that tempts some guests to consider a wine-tasting course. After wine, we move onto some ales crafted by Pawel the Polish brewer. Then finally, our selection of liqueurs includes wild peach vodka, damson jam vodka and a creamy, rich Irish liqueur.

As tastings can be generous – if you choose – many guests prefer not to drive afterwards. They opt for Luxters arranging a taxi to and from The Stag and Huntsman for dinner in the quaint Chilterns’ village of Hambledon.

North of Henley-on-Thames and west of nearby Marlow, The Old Luxters Farmhouse, in picturesque Midsomer Murders territory, is perfectly placed for a few days exploring the Thames Valley. As we depart, one couple arrive for their fourth visit: a compelling endorsement.