Andy Mossack visits the wide-open spaces of the Paris La Défense district. Traffic free and minutes from the city centre. Basing yourself here is a no brainer.
I’m in twelfth-century Paris watching the Notre Dame being built. A wooden platform is raising me up far above the rooftops and I am so fearful of falling I’m keeping well away from the edge.
It is seriously scary, and even though I know it’s all VR created it is utterly gripping. Welcome to the 45-minute Eternelle Notre-Dame experience at the Cité de l’Histoire in Paris La Défense, a literal walk through 850 years of her history from conception to rebirth following the tragic fire in 2019. The virtual reality tech involved in this is truly cutting edge, allowing 30 people to simultaneously take part in a jaw-dropping immersive experience. Absolute genius.
This is just one of the highlights of my trip to the Paris La Défense district. An urban neighbourhood often dismissed by Parisiens as a ‘concrete white elephant,’ has finally found its mojo.
It began in the late 50s as a project to turn this former industrial area in the suburbs of west Paris into a purpose-built finance and business district. The freedom of no height restrictions (which still limits development in central Paris), unshackled skilled architects to design high-rise structures that have, particularly more recently, added some extraordinary shapes to the Paris La Défense vertical skyline. Make no mistake, this is a remarkable renaissance.
It unquestionably offers a fitting climax to the famed Historical Axis of Paris, the arrow-straight artery of streets, squares and monuments running west from the Arc de Triomphe along the Champs-Élysées and ending at Paris La Défense’s colossal Grande Arche de La Défense, the district’s artistic homage to the famous original. It is so tall the Notre Dame can sit underneath it! Bizarrely, looking back at the Arc from underneath the huge homage, it reminds me of a simple folly in the distance! Sacré bleu I think to myself!
With its wide-open public spaces, easy access transport hub to Paris centre and excellent hotels, restaurants and shopping, here’s why I think next time you visit Paris, you should base yourself at Paris La Défense.
Unashamedly Vertical
They say the only way is up! And over here you will find yourself looking to the heavens a lot in this outdoor museum of over 50 pieces of gigantic art. Some of the world’s greatest architects and artists have been given free license on this giant canvas to fill it with extraordinary works. Besides the monumental Grande Arche, skyscraper architects such as Leoh Ming Pei (creator of the Louvre Pyramid), with the Tour Légende – wider at the top than the bottom; the triple strips of Jean-Paul Viguier’s Tour Majunga; Anthony Bechu and Tom Sheehan’s version of the London Gherkin called simply Tower D2; and Jean Nouvel’s soon-to-be-completed 220-metre prismesque Hekla Tower.
Somewhat shorter but no less mesmerising include César’s Thumb, a giant scuplture of artist César Baldaccini’s thumb, the 15-metre tall Red Spider by Alexander Calder, Moretti the 32-metre high ventilation chimney turned into a giant straw by Raymond Moretti and propbably the most curious piece of all Two Fantastic Characters by Catalan artist Joan Miró.
Green Fingers
Despite being encircled by such lofty perches, Paris La Défense has ambitious plans to be the first post carbon district in Paris. With almost 4,000 planted trees and 37 hectares of gardens, parks and eco spaces, the council’s commitment to urban bio-diversity is up and running. I was taken on a tour of its green spaces by Theo from Jardins de Gally the people tasked with making this plan succeed.
Despite the challenges of immense shadows and shallow earth space, there is plenty of green space flourishing all over the district’s nooks and crannies. But the splendid 1.2 hectare Parc Diderot oasis designed by Alain Provost is the current showsopper. A waterfall gently descends 14 metres down a granite pathway bookended by trees, grass and shrubs. At the top, a canopy of trees and flowers offer plenty of polinating opportunities. It’s a lovely peaceful space for locals to relax in or sit around on a lunch break.
Theo takes me up onto what was once a road bridge system that is now used as a pedestrian walkway. For anyone familiar with New York’s High Line, you’ll recognise the concept here. Flora, fauna and spaces for art and relaxation with great views of the disctrict.
But the new 5 hectare urban Esplanade Park designed by renowned landscape architect Michel Desvigne will probable be the marquee green attraction when its completed in 2027/8. Running like a huge 600-metre artery down the centre of Paris La Défense it will be packed with flower gardens, groves, trees and lawns.
Entertainment and Shopping
Having survived my VR walk through 850 years of the Notre Dame at Cité de l’Histoire, I was keen to discover if there was anything else that could top it. Just a short walk away I found the Zoo Art Show. Run by Tony, a former infamous graffiti artist, this is his second gallery following a succesfull launch in Lyon. It is four floors of some of the most brilliant and awsome urban street art you are ever likely to see in one place.
Over 500 global artists descended here to create stunning works of art in just 9 weeks. The mysteries of urban art are explained here with each piece QR coded. Look out for the hanging sneakers and ask what they mean! Utterly brilliant.
Paris La Défense Arena is a very impressive indoor arena with a 45,000 capacity. It just so happened Robbie Williams was playing his Britpop Tour here and I was priviliged to be a guest of Paris La Défense. What a show. Robbie still rocks!
Westfield le 4 Temps – CNIT. The largest shopping centre in Paris is literally on the doorstep with 250 shops and 70 restaurants. Set across two huge malls either side of the Grande Arche, it is shop till you drop heaven for retail therapists. There’s a cinema and a huge entertainment centre for older kids with another 4D VR experience somewhat more action packed than my Notre Dame adventure. Hilton has a hotel inside Westfield le 4 Temps – CNIT and the transport connections are superb with trains to both Paris airports, Gare de Nord and Garde de Lyon and even Disneyland Paris.
Better than central Paris?
Definitely! Paris La Défense offers an unbeatable incentive to to base yourself here instead of staying in the centre of Paris. The hotels not only offer much bigger rooms, but also lower nightly rates, particularly at weekends. It is only three stops on the Metro to the centre of Paris, just 10 minutes from all the famous sights, then you can return to traffic-free wide open spaces and enjoy the fresh air.
Like I said at the top, it’s a no brainer.
Images (C) Andy Mossack, Augustin Detienne, Sabrina Budon, Alexander Calder, Parvis Calder.
Tell me more about Paris La Défense
Paris La Défense is a traffic-free district in western Paris. For more information on all the places mentioned here please go to Paris La Defense Tourism.
Where to Stay in Paris La Défense
Melia Paris La Défense Exceptional four-star skyscraper hotel right next to the Metro entrance. Stupendous views across Paris from the guestrooms. Even better 360-degree views from the Skyline Bar right at the top. Excellent cocktails too.
Hilton Paris La La Défense. Located right inside Westfield le 4 Temps – CNIT it offers a throwback to the vintage Paris glamour of the 60s. In particular the Muses restaurant is famous for its homage to famous French pastry chef Nina Métayer’s and her dessert trolley.
Mama Shelter If you’re looking for a fun, frisky and on-trend lifestyle hotel, Mama Shelter is the place for you. Great views of the Seine, and another panoramic view of the city from Mama’s Penthouse Bar on the top floor.
