Andy Mossack returns to Quilon and finds it still an exceptional Indian culinary adventure.
Quilon, as I am led to understand, is a famous seaport city in Kerala, one of the oldest on the Arabian sea. But I feel sure that if visited, its restaurants may struggle to offer the same type of classy Michelin starred fare you would get from its namesake in Westminster. This Quilon is part of the very swanky Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Suites and Residences, and it’s been there since it opened its doors in 1999 still led by head chef Sriram Aylur who has retained its one Michelin star every year since 2008. And the longevity seems to be contagious with many of the Quilon team proud to have had decades of service behind them.
I last dined at Quilon over ten years ago and to this day still remember that meal with great fondness, so having an opportunity to return was too good to miss. Fortunately, I was staying at the St James’ Court hotel, part of the sumptuous Taj complex at Buckingham Gate, just a very short stroll across to Quilon. Just as well really as I was looking forward to tasting a Quilon crafted cocktail for old times’ sake.
As we walked in, I could tell the place had been given a refresh since my last visit. The atmosphere, including the cocktail bar, was clean and contemporary but still dimmed and sultry. As was the Red Sour I had in front of me, a rye whiskey sour topped with a red wine float that, together with a bowl of crunchy banana crisps, proved to be an ideal aperitif (£17).
The main restaurant was doing good business considering it was a drizzly Wednesday evening. We were shown to a discreet table for two, tucked away but perfect for people watching.
Quilon offers three six-course tasting menus from £125, but we were going for the full a la carte southwest coastal Indian experience, putting ourselves firmly in the hands of restaurant manager Ashish.
After the introduction of Quilon’s mandatory mini-papadums and chutneys (still unforgettable), a couple of very tasty soups to kick off proceedings; a banana stem soup (£17 served with a crunchy slice of crisped banana) and a mildly curried Cochin lobster broth within which we discovered some salmon caviar residing at the bottom of the bowl (£19). An unexpected but very welcome surprise.
These soups were the forerunners of a bounty of sharing starters brought on platters ceremoniously befitting a royal Keralan couple. A mini masala dosa pyramid with tempered potatoes, spinach paneer and chicken tikka served with a bowl of sambhar – lentil curry (£18). Another platter included a beautifully grilled tender Goan lamb chop marinated in Goan vinegar, a vermicelli encrusted crab cake and two chunks of roasted Kondapur chicken (£24). A white chick pea marsala (£19) completed our ensemble of memorable starters.
All of these brought back heady memories of our recent trip to Kerala and there was no denying the authenticity of the flavours transported across to London.
After all that, a pause to catch our breath with an unexpected palate cleanser: two wine glasses of hot lentil and tomato soup, seasoned with cumin, coriander and black pepper. Perhaps an ancient south west Indian digestive recipe to settle our stomachs for the upcoming shared main event.
It was also an opportunity to take a look around the guests from our discreet perch. A heady mix of corporates, hotel guests, visiting tourists and perhaps one or two local regulars who seemed to know their way around the menu.
An astounding baked black cod dish was our first main course, encrusted with tamarind, jaggery and dry fenugreek (£42). Beautifully cooked, soft, flaky and divine. The Quilon fish curry of halibut simmered in coconut, chilli with raw mango (£34) was a triumph as was the gorgeously crunchy asparagus, mange tout and tenderstem purple broccoli dish with mustard seeds, curry leaves, green chilli and grated coconut. (£19).
Rounded Malabar paratha (£7) and a bowl of fluffy steamed rice (£6) put the finishing touches to a mains section fit for a maharaja.
By now the service rush was easing off and I spotted Chef Aylur popping out for a well-earned breather. Which prompted Ashish to return with his suggestion for a final flourish. A strawberry kesari which is a traditional southern Indian dessert dish of whole wheat fudge and semolina (£15). A small bowl of fresh mango was also a welcome addition.
It is clear to me that Quilon’s 27 years of success is no fluke. It has been crafted through a dedication to high quality food and outstanding service, a combination that will never fail in my opinion. That, and the longevity of the service team, elevates a well-oiled operation into legendary status and fully deserving of its Michelin star.
I’ve heard that the city of Quilon has now changed its name to Kollam. Perhaps it was fed up with people expecting to find another Michelin outpost over there. However, I suspect there’s no chance this Quilon will follow suit.
It was a memorable reunion for me, and hopefully we’ll meet again. Can’t wait.
Image credits Quilon and Andy Mossack
Tell me more about Quilon in Buckingham Gate.
Quilon, 41 Buckingham Gate, London SW1E 6AF.
T: 020 7821 1899 E: dine@quilon.co.uk
Lunch
Wed – Fri | 12pm – 2:30pm
Sat – Sun | 12pm – 3:30pm
Dinner
Tues, Wed, Thurs, Sun | 5:30pm – 10pm
