Quinta Da Bela Vista. Discover 5* Old World Elegance In Madeira.

Anna Smith basks in old world grandeur at Quinta da Bela Vista in Funchal, Madeira

A sure sign of a great hotel is guests who come back year after year – and so it is with the five-star Quinta da Bela Vista, a charming mansion set in botanical gardens, attracting a loyal customer base from Europe and beyond. The property dates back to 1844 and spent time as an aristocratic residence and sugarcane farm before being snapped up by a surgeon and antiques enthusiast in the 1970s.

The family converted it to a hotel in 1989, adding new buildings filled with his treasured antiques, which adorn the corridors and bedrooms to this day.

We pass magnificent antique cabinets and a library on our way to 452, a Deluxe Room with a spacious balcony, a comfortable open plan bedroom/living area and a wardrobe-lined corridor leading to a large bathroom. The wardrobes are big enough for several weeks’ worth of packing, should you be fortunate enough to be staying longer than the two nights we have here.

We wake to blissful silence, occasionally peppered with bird song, and enjoy a view of the sun dappled lawn before heading for a hearty breakfast at the airy restaurant Avista Navios, which also offers an attractive set menu in the evenings. A stroll through the gardens reveals palm trees, banana trees, hydrangeas, bougainvillea, orchids and much more – a few guests have brought out their sketchbooks.

When we visit in November, the clientele is genteel and mature: some who have been coming here for years, and some younger couples looking for peace and quiet, rather than partying: I spot two gents contently crocheting in unison by the pool. The pool has a gym and a jacuzzi – bookable in advance – as well as a bar with the “bela vista” promised: a striking view over the bay of Funchal, Madeira’s capital.

The pool also has another long-term resident: Blackie the cat, who’s been charming guests for the past 15 years. She is quick to turn her attention to generous lunchers, and equally quick to jump onto a towel on a nice warm sun lounger.

As we wander to our dinner at the Manor House restaurant, this feels less like a hotel and more like a house stay: there’s a refreshing lack of signage and the Manor House has family photographs in the living room. The dining room is intimate yet grand, with white tablecloths and attentive servers who have clearly been with the hotel a long time. They take pride in serving our food, and the results don’t disappoint: my partner declares the scallops to be fantastic, while I appreciate the goats cheese starter with pear. My lamb with herbs, and his fish mains, also deliver, along with an excellent full-bodied house red.

The dessert menu is tempting, but we opt for our welcome gift: the traditional Bolo de Mel (honey cake) washed down with Madeira wine.

The hotel is a short cab ride from the centre of Funchal, though it’s also accessible by foot in around half an hour. We wander slowly down winding streets, past the football stadium and to the bar at Reid’s Palace, a well known spot for a classy drink with a view. From there, it’s a short walk to the cable car that takes you up to the hills on the other side of town, to Monte, and the spectacular Monte Palace Tropical Garden.

You can easily spend half a day exploring this magical site that takes you on paths through stunning vegetation (around 100,000 plant species) and different buildings, sculptures and collections from different eras. There are also museums displaying modern art, a restaurant that offers wine tasting, water features and bird life including swans and flamingos. At points, you feel like you could be in a fairytale landscape, with each corner you turn taking your breath away.

We decide to travel back to town in a rather eccentric fashion, taking advantage of the local tradition of the Carreiros do Monte, aka the Madeiran toboggan ride. This involves two strapping chaps in costume pulling your sled down a steep winding hill at an impressive speed, navigating other traffic. It’s a bit like an old fashioned fairground ride, and they’ve been doing this for years, so we feel in good hands. It’s a fun way to travel back to the centre where we grab a cab back to Quinta da Bela Vista.

I spend the morning of our departure overlooking Funchal in the sunshine, stroking Blackie and thinking: this is the life. She’s got it right.

Images (C) Quintsa da Bela Vista and Ben Robards.