Cían Byrne finds that there’s a lot to like in Leukerbad in Switzerland’s glorious Valais region.
Ski holidays are unique. I often see couples, families and groups awkwardly shuffling their way through ski resorts, holding on to their ski equipment like they’re some sort of alien objects. This clunky march towards the gondola is much more than it seems, as it represents the victory of one member of the group in convincing everyone to go on a ski holiday.
It’s a victory that signifies the winning of a battle, but if they want to win the war and make skiing an annual event, they must choose their ski resort very carefully. While it’s not on the radar of many international skiers, Leukerbad may just tick everyone’s boxes.
Leukerbad is found high in a winding valley in the Valais region of Switzerland, close to the famous resorts of Crans Montana, Verbier, Saas Fee known for their luxurious approach to ski life. It’s a small village of around 1,500 people sitting at 1,411m that was founded by the Romans when they discovered the 51°C thermal waters flowing through the area. After the Romans left, Leukerbad became a sleepy farming town that was still visited by in the know travellers for its healing waters
In recent decades, skiing has developed with thirteen gondolas and chairlifts, allowing people to access the lookout points on Daubenhorn and the ski runs on Torrenthorn on the opposite side of the valley. On paper, Leukerbad mightn’t seem like much (it’s easily overshadowed by its neighbours on almost every metric) but as the old football saying goes, “you don’t win games on paper” and that logic should be applied to Leukerbad. It’s a place that belies the numbers and is all the better for it.
Leukerbad should be an easy sell to anyone who has begrudgingly accepted to go on a ski trip. It’s got three public thermal spas that are surrounded by a wall of the Swiss Alps that wraps around the town, providing incredible views wherever you go. Being in Switzerland, it also removes a common point of friction: long transfers through winding mountain passes. Leukerbad is easily reached by public transport from Geneva and Zürich.
I skied here from Morzine to Champéry and then hopped on a train and a bus to my destination. The town is south facing and as I’m wandering the cobblestone streets lined with traditional alpine style buildings, I notice the mountains bathing in sunshine.
I’m told they get over 300 days of sun here each year, which the locals make the most of the bright winter days as I spot them cross country skiing in the parklands and setting off on snow covered, family friendly walking trails into the woods. If the views, pampering and sunshine have warmed the heart of the reluctant traveller to the ways of a ski holiday, then they’ll be happy to hear Leukerbad is well set up for those convinced to try skiing for the first time.
Instead of buying a full day pass and scaling the Swiss Alps to access the bunny slopes, you’ll find them in the town itself and as cheap as 20 CHF per day, but this can be completely free if staying in an accommodation that provides guests with a Leukerbad Guest Card.
Having heard about all these beginner-friendly aspects of Leukerbad, you’d be forgiven for thinking that more experienced skiers might get bored. I don’t have the highest expectations as I’m trundling my way up in the gondola to the 55km of ski runs – if you think that doesn’t sound like a lot, then you’re correct, nearby Verbier has 410km – but the runs are made in such a playful way, I find myself happily lapping the same runs and finding new ways to ride them.
Crusiey blue runs sweep around the mountain, steep and wide red runs invite you to charge down them, and a tight black run tests your technical ability on the way back to town through a twisting tunnel. Leukerbad is much quieter on the mountain than other, larger resorts nearby and I easily access the off-piste areas, which are still in good condition with pockets of powder left days after the latest snowfall.
If you’re into ski touring, there’s even more joy to be had. Skinning tracks lead up to a ridge line from the Schwalbennest chairlift and within an hour, you’ve got your choice of open powder or rocky chutes back down into the resort.
Once skiing is finished for the day, common ground is easily found in the comfort of the hotels and food here. The Bristol Hotel sits at the quiet end of this quiet town, and it’s all the better for it. My room opens out to a towering wall of Swiss mountains, as the Daubenhorn catches and holds the warming alpenglow after darkness has settled on the village. It’s a phenomenon I’ve been lucky enough to experience many times now and it’s one that I’ll always be amazed by. With the active phase of my day now well and truly over, I make my way down to the hotel spa.
Pools of varying temperatures and bubbliness span the inside and outside of the spa, but the true treasure is found in the hot waters of onsen style tub, which is only large enough for two close friends. I melt into the tub and drink in mountain views, now illuminated by moonlight. After a long day spent enjoying the best of the Swiss Alps, it’s time for dinner.
Restaurant Waldhaus is a family restaurant that’s recently been passed down to the youngest generation and this mixing of eras is proudly on show with the modern cabin-chic interior matched with a traditional menu of Alpine fare.
I’m not the only one who thinks the combination works well – the restaurant is full and the owners bounce from table to table chatting with their guests. It’s warm, inviting, and after my Pork escalope fried “Cordon bleu”, I’m ready for bed.
I arrived in Leukerbad as a person who often finds themselves convincing others that a ski holiday is a good idea. I always default to selling the vastness of the ski area and the variation of terrain first, then I tack on all the enjoyment that can be had off the mountain. After my visit to Leukerbad, I find myself questioning if my priorities might be shifting. Maybe the best ski towns are built on the best mountain towns after all?
Tell me more about Leukerbad in the Valais.
Leukerbad is easily reached by public transport. From Zürich Airport, it takes three and a half hours and from Geneva Airport, it takes three hours.
Ski passes work on a dynamic pricing system with the cheapest tickets, starting at 65 CHF per day, found online and as far in advance as possible.
For more information on planning your stay, visit My Leukerbad or Switzerland Tourism
Save on multiple activities and experiences with the My Leukerbad Card
Where to Stay in Leukerbad.
A stay at Le Bristol Hotel starts at 200 CHF per night for a double room with breakfast.
If you enjoyed this review, why not check out these similar posts:
Insider Guide To Winter Adventures In Valais. Discover Switzerland’s Alpine playground.
Autumn in Valais. Discover chestnut picking, raclette and delicious Brisolée wine.
Skiing in Verbier. Discover Switzerland’s greatest celebrity ski resort.
Kronplatz. A Unique Ski Resort In The Glorious Dolomites.
