Andy Mossack eats at Sartoria Launceston Place, the latest restaurant from Terance Conran’s Evolv Collection.
London’s Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea has always had a special place in my heart. The leafy residential side streets, the cobbled lanes, the charming coach house mews, and the quaint period homes and basement flats with their cute flower boxes. All quietly removed from the hustle and bustle of Kensington’s main arteries.
You’ll find Sartoria discreetly tucked away at 1a Launceston Place, one of those exact leafy side streets, on a corner plot next to a couple of art galleries (well it is Kensington after all). But perhaps this was more notably where the Michelin-starred restaurant Launceston Place used to be – once described as Princess Diana’s favourite restaurant.
Today it is the latest outpost of an impressive portfolio of restaurants from Conran’s Evolv Collection, which includes many recognisable brands such as Angler, Bluebird, Quaglino’s and the German Gymnasium.
Sartoria Launceston Place is the fledgling sister to Sartoria Savile Row, now something of a Mayfair institution, and both dedicated to showcasing Milanese-inspired all day fine dining.
Sartoria is the Italian word for tailor, which explains the interior theme celebrating Milan’s status within the world of fashion and design. And also perhaps a nod in the direction of its older sibling in Savile Row, a street not unfamiliar with posh tailoring. Large, framed photos of a seamster’s workshop decorate the walls, while an occasional arty tailor’s dummy can be found perched on a pedestal.
The restaurant is open all day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and while I can’t normally resist the draw of a freshly baked pain au chocolat, it was the dinner service we were here to enjoy.
It was a damp Thursday evening and Sartoria was pleasantly busy considering it had only opened its doors a month ago. Whether these were all locals or not was unclear, but one thing was for sure, they all seemed to be straight out of central casting for the well-heeled Kensington set. Even down to a couple with their pet poodle in a carry cot. Not to be unexpected in one of London’s most fashionable post codes.
We were greeted warmly and seated side by side in a bijou corner table for two, the perfect perch for people watching. That said, being on a corner plot, the dining room wrapped itself around the bar area in such a way that discreet dining for all was almost guaranteed.
We kicked of with a tasty signature aperitivo – a Campari spritzer (£15), Campari, prosecco and soda water to accompany a delightful tuna tartare amuse-bouche while we studied the small but tidy menu. A first course of tartare di manzo (£17.50) for me, and calamari fritti (£11) for my companion. A generous dish of beef tartare came with an olive oil infused slice of toasted sourdough and did not disappoint with wonderfully fresh sundried tomatoes, parmesan and thyme. The calamari were equally fresh and lightly fried with a side of chili jam and a lemon chunk in a sock for easy squeezing.
One of the highlights of the secondi choices, the veal Milanese shared for two (£38pp), just had to be tried. A whole veal cutlet served ready sliced, with the bone added for carnivores to gnaw should they choose to do so. It was so vast even the Austrians who probably consider schnitzel their copyright might even have raised an eyebrow or two. The platter of fried breaded veal was a sensation, beautifully crispy and came with a side of tomato and lettuce salad.
We went all in and added sides of spinaci ripassati (£7) very moreish sautéed spinach, with garlic and parmesan, and some proper patate al forno |(£6.5) which we would call roasted potatoes. And these really were fat crispy beauties.
There is more than a touch of the old school about Sartoria that you wouldn’t find in your typical neighbourhood restaurant. In between courses the waiters will come and scrape the crumbs off your starched tablecloth and will be super diligent when replenishing the water in your glass. But this is South Kensington after all.
By now the poodle and its owners had made a graceful exit, as had a few of our dining neighbours, but we weren’t finished just yet.
Dolci was up next, and with just four choices it was not too difficult to pick a dish. We chose the persimmon panna cotta (£9) over a sponge and pastry layered cake entitled torta diplomatica (£10), classic tiramisu (£12) or gelato e sorbetti (£6.5).
The panna cotta was unlike any other I’ve tasted. Whipped to within an inch of its life, it was light and fluffy and surrounded by a reef of fresh granola. I can’t deny it was delicious, but it was an unexpected yet welcome surprise. Another surprise was in store as a mini morsel of the overlooked tiramisu arrived to our table as a delightful taster (as it did for all the other diners). Perhaps this was a subtle hint as to what we’d missed by not choosing it. I have to say it tasted utterly epic.
Sartoria fully justified its offering as a Kensington all day neighbourhood restaurant. I think the Launceston Place residents might agree too, despite perhaps missing the royal nod that the storied Launceston Place once had.
Maybe I should come back one morning for breakfast and try out a couple of those freshly baked pains au chocolat.
Tell me more about Sartoria Launceston Place
Sartoria Launceston Place, 1a Launceston Place, London, W8 5RL
T: 020 7937 6912
Nearest stations
South Kensington: Circle, District, and Piccadilly lines – 4-minute walk
High Street Kensington: Circle and District lines – 7-minute walk
Gloucester Road: Circle, District, and Piccadilly lines – 10-minute walk
