Rob Rees visits The Golden Ball, where husband-and-wife team Ben and Priya Watson have transformed an Oxfordshire inn into a classy gastropub with bold flavours, refined cooking and genuine warmth.
There’s a new name to know in the Chilterns dining scene, and it comes with serious credentials. The Golden Ball in Lower Assendon, just two miles outside Henley-on-Thames, is building a strong reputation under the watchful eye of chef Ben Watson—formerly Sous Chef at three Michelin star Core by Clare Smyth—and his wife Priya, who brings front-of-house charm honed at London’s finest dining rooms. Together, they’ve turned this handsome 17th-century inn into one of South Oxfordshire’s most exciting new tables.
It’s a heartwarming story. Henley-born Ben grew up on tales of his grandmother’s pub, The White Hart in Binfield Heath (now Orwell’s). Hospitality is in his blood: early local stints at The Five Horseshoes and The Crown paved the way aged 18 for London, where he trained under Jason Atherton, Gordon Ramsay and, finally, Clare Smyth—whose precision left a lasting mark.
Priya, meanwhile, mastered the art of service at Gymkhana, The Square and Brigadiers.
In 2022, daughter Lily’s arrival inspired a move back home. “I wanted her to have what I had – a sense of freedom and community,” Ben says. So, the Watsons brought their skills – and a sizeable dash of London polish – to the Chilterns to start their first solo venture.
The Golden Ball oozes character: oak beams, cosy rooms and the original wooden bar. Outside, a generous garden looks up the Assendon Valley towards Stonor Park, deer grazing beneath beech woods. For centuries, this old drovers’ road was a quieter alternative to the London–Oxford turnpike. Today, the pub feels utterly rooted yet refreshingly unpretentious: calm hues, simple art, and a focus on the plate.
Even the pub sign is a classic: a golden orb swinging from a wrought iron bracket, gleaming like a celestial way-marker. Its origins—religious or regal—are lost to time, but its roadside impact is timeless.
As for the food? A tight, seasonal menu with modern European foundations and Punjabi accents, reflecting Priya’s heritage. Ben lets the ingredients lead—think Nettlebed Creamery cheeses, game from nearby estates, vegetables at their seasonal peak. He creates precise, flavour-driven plates that balance refinement with soul. Underpinned by Ben’s classical technique, it’s been turning heads. “Accessible but exceptional,” is how Ben puts it, and it’s an ethos that holds true from first bite to last.
Ben & Priya’s hard work is getting recognised. The Golden Ball already ranks 61st in the Top 100 Gastropubs and features in the Michelin Guide—one of only seven Oxfordshire entries—plus strong nods from The Good Food Guide and Harden’s.
Our summer evening meal begins with freshly baked bread, served with twin butters – one summer herbs, one plain – each whipped into silk. From there, dishes evolve with effortless confidence: vibrant starters, deep-flavoured mains, and desserts that feel like a cheeky embrace rather than a pompous indulgence.
The Crab (£21) pairs sweet Cornish meat with herb emulsion, nashi pear and green strawberry. A brown crab brioche adds a rich, saline counterpoint.
The Squid (£15.50) is a riot of contrasts: crisp golden curls tangled in tandoori heat, soothed by yoghurt, flickers of coriander, and the sweet-charred thrum of onion. The last smear of dressing demands to be mopped up by the last of the bread.
Among mains, the Cod (£29) is pure theatre — pan-roasted, its flesh barely holding together, draped across a boldly spiced Punjabi Choley. Smoked aubergine and samphire pakora bring crunch and earthiness, while mint chutney cuts through perfectly.
Then the Lamb (£32): roasted loin and melting confit belly, rich with lamb sauce and balanced by subtle black cardamom yoghurt. ‘Keema-style’ peas and broad beans give a cheeky nod to curry-house comfort combined with country-house finesse.
Desserts charm rather than overwhelm. Hedgerow Tart (£11) sings with gooseberries, wild mint and lemon curd beneath a whisper of woodruff ice cream. But the showstopper is pure fun: “The Golden Ball” (£12), a chocolate sphere collapsing under hot caramel to reveal shortbread and Twix ice cream. Joy in a bowl.
Unsurprisingly the Golden Ball uses the very best suppliers: fish from Flying Fish, meat from Vicars Game, venison from Oakland Park and veg from the legend that is Oxford’s Peter Durham & Le Marché.
This isn’t an overdone temple to fine dining but a proper country pub with ambition, where heritage meets modern gastronomy without pretension. Menus evolve with the seasons; the view towards Stonor and the Chiltern Hills barely changes. For Ben and Priya, it feels like the start of a golden era for The Golden Ball.
Tell Me More About The Golden Ball
The Golden Ball, Lower Assendon, Henley-On-Thames RG9 6AH
email: book@goldenballhenley.co.uk Tel: 01491 574157
Wed–Sat: Lunch 12–2.30pm; Dinner 6–9.30pm Sun: Lunch only 12–4pm | Closed Mon & Tues
