Rob Rees eats at The Plough At Hanney and enjoys great value country cooking and unrivalled hospitality from Britain’s friendliest landlord
If you’re looking for a proper Sunday roast in a proper village pub, The Plough at Hanney is hard to beat. Community-owned and proudly run by landlord Owain Jones, this South Oxfordshire thatched beauty blends history, heart and outstanding food. It isn’t trying to be clever, overly curated or reinvent the wheel – it simply gets everything right.
First impressions matter and The Plough at Hanney near Wantage doesn’t disappoint. As you round the corner of Church Street, the centuries-old thatch, bright hanging baskets and welcoming façade already signal you’re somewhere quintessentially English.
Inside, the atmosphere is unmistakably pubby: low beams, worn bar stools, brewery ephemera and a fire that always seems to be crackling when it should. The dining room feels honest, not designed to look some artsy London media outpost; there’s a sun-trap garden for summer pints and a covered area with heaters ready for Six Nations afternoons.
The 17th-century Plough is a free house and was bought by 170 villagers and local farmers in 2015 from pub landlord Punch. The locals refurbished it as a community pub and is now owned by the self styled ‘Hanney Community Pub Company’. Since May 2021, The Plough is rented and run by Owain and Head Chef Luke Mayor, offering decent homemade British cuisine and a Sunday feast to top ALL Sunday lunches!
Owain himself is half the experience. A proud Welshman with a booming laugh, he’s the kind of landlord Britain thought it had lost – part host, part raconteur, part community glue. He’s a publican in the truest sense. He greets everyone, knows names, and makes you feel that a pint at The Plough is the most enjoyable thing you’ll do that day. No bland chain-pub manager here: Owain lives and breathes the place. He also has an unrivalled pedigree as ‘front of house’ at several of Oxfordshire’s finest eateries.
Then there’s the food. Chef Luke – who trained at the Malmaison in Oxford and at the AA-rosetted White Hart in Fyfield – delivers generous, confident cooking rooted in tradition but never predictable. The Sunday Roast (£35 for two courses, £40 for three) is the standout: perfectly pink roast beef or succulent pork, crisp Yorkshires you could build a house in, rich cauliflower cheese, cabbage, carrots, golden roast potatoes, and gravy so good you’ll want an extra jug.
For those wanting something lighter, pan-fried sea bream with summer vegetables is a hit, while starters range from comforting roasted tomato soup with sourdough to unexpected delights like cod cheeks in curry butter with cooling raita and fennel-apple slaw. Desserts keep the comfort dialled up: sticky toffee pudding with Oxford Cow vanilla ice cream, “bottomless” pear and apple crumble served hot from the sort of enamel trays your granny had, or a decadent chocolate mousse with honeycomb crunch.
Part of The Plough’s magic lies in its sourcing. Luke and Owain insist on quality with local ties – meat from Hedges in Newbury, veg from trusted growers, beer from nearby breweries, even Welsh lamb from Owain’s family farm near Swansea. It’s food with integrity, where every ingredient has an artisan’s story and a connection to the land. Prices are fair, portions hearty and the sense of value undeniable.
Service, led by Mia, is upbeat and human. The young staff are enthusiastic and clearly proud of their pub. And The Plough isn’t just about eating: it’s a hub of Hanney life with quiz nights, all the top sporting occasions on the big screen, an Oktoberfest, live music, and even its own PloughFest summer music festival.
Walk in hungry, walk out full of food, warmth and connection. Village pubs rarely get it this right. Hats off to Owain, Luke and the team – The Plough sets the bar for how community-owned pubs can not only survive but thrive.
Forget the over-marketed, overpriced likes of Soho’s Devonshire Arms or The Bull at Charlbury – both rather insulting Londoner concepts of what a country pub looks like. The real deal is right here at The Plough, amidst the untrumpeted Vale of The White Horse, at prices mere mortals can afford. It’s good, honest country cooking – ‘la cucina di nonna’ as the Italians say. And to top it all off, Owain keeps a mighty fine pint of Guinness!
Tell Me More About The Plough At Hanney
The Plough at Hanney, Church Street, West Hanney, Oxfordshire OX12 0LN
T: 01235 868987 E:enquiries@theploughathanney.co.uk
Sunday lunches run from 1200 to 1800. With an average of 125 lunches served every Sunday, it’s better to book ahead.
