Rob Rees reviews new fine dining restaurant Wildling at Minster Mill, situated in an old mill on the edge of the Cotswolds and enjoys some funky sharing plates and fresh local seasonal fayre
The Cotswolds’ fine dining scene continues to evolve, and at the forefront is Wildling at Minster Mill—a sophisticated yet relaxed restaurant that brings the capital’s small plate trend to the heart of rural Oxfordshire. Set within a beautifully restored old mill in the village of Minster Lovell, Wildling combines bold culinary innovation with the best of local, seasonal British produce.
Wildling at Minster Mill forms part of the luxury Minster Mill Hotel, a Brownsword Hotels property surrounded by 65 acres of gardens, wildflower meadows, and ancient woodland on the banks of the River Windrush. Located just 15 miles from Oxford, near Burford and Witney, it’s an easy getaway from London—ideal for a gourmet weekend escape in the Cotswolds.
While Minster Mill is barely a hundred years old, it is built on the foundations of a thousand-year-old mill that was documented in the Domesday Book of 1086. There has always been a mill in the village. In 2014, Minster Mill along with sister hotel, the Old Swan, became the first hotels in the country to install a hydropower turbine to harness the power of the river and supply much of the hotel’s electricity. There are 38 Skandi-style luxury bedrooms.
The Mill is just a stone’s throw from picture postcard spots like Burford and Bibury. The hotel sits at the centre of a region rich in artisan producers, farm-to-table eateries, and countryside charm. If you are that way inclined and want to pay homage to the “Cult of Jeremy Clarkson” his new Farmer’s Dog pub is only a mile away.
Wildling’s dining room oozes rustic character—formerly a barn and hotel reception, it’s now a refined yet welcoming eating space with high vaulted ceilings, original oak beams, and a calm contemporary finish. It’s a fitting stage for a menu that delivers on both creativity and flavour.
Chef Andrew Campbell, formerly of Harris House and Ellenborough Park, draws on global experience— including a formative year cooking in New Zealand — to craft a seasonal menu that champions regional ingredients. Each plate is thoughtfully designed, whether it’s a delicate small plate or a satisfyingly bold main.
Start with the rich and silky artichoke parfait (£11) served with pickled garlic, shiitake mushrooms, and toasted sourdough—an outstanding vegetarian option. Equally memorable is the cured monkfish (£15) with pickled chilli, lime, and coriander, and the smoked duck breast (£13) paired ingeniously with rhubarb, crispy gingerbread, and sorrel.
Mains are made for sharing. A standout was the sirloin steak (£30) cooked medium-rare, finished with a zingy peppercorn and Madeira sauce, pickled onions, and rocket. Truffle fries (£8) with grated pecorino and a side of tenderstem broccoli (£8) ossed with capers and almonds elevated the experience further. The stone bass (£30) —perfectly cooked—was another showstopper.
Desserts at Wildling at Minster Mill are far from ordinary. A dark chocolate tofu mousse (£14) with griottine cherries, cocoa nib crumb, and cherry sorbet proved both indulgent and inventive. The brown butter waffle with melted Tunworth cheese (£15) and a drizzle of truffle honey pushed boundaries and paid off deliciously.
Open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea, Wilding offers indoor and al fresco dining. On warmer days, dine riverside; in cooler weather, retreat to the beamed great hall with its roaring open fire. The adjacent Gallery Bar is ideal for pre-dinner drinks or a leisurely nightcap—expertly mixed cocktails like the raspberry Bellini or a crisp vodka mule seal the deal. The comprehensive cocktails list (£11-14 per cocktail) is impressive and the wine list both exciting and innovative.
In summary, for food lovers seeking Cotswolds restaurants with character, Wildling at Minster Mill delivers a refined yet relaxed fine dining experience, perfect for sharing and savouring. With locally sourced, seasonal ingredients at its core and a skilled chef pushing boundaries, Wildling is set to become a worthy destination for serious foodies in Oxfordshire and beyond.
Tell me more about Wildling at Minster Mill
Wildling at Minster Mill Minster Lovell, Oxfordshire Cotswolds OX29 0RN
T: 01993 774 441 E: info@minstermill.co.uk