Anna Smith stays at Hotel Quinta da Serra and is thoroughly seduced by this pink mystery mansion.
A pink hotel, you say? In the mountains of Madeira? Sign me up. And the five-star Hotel Quinta da Serra, located in the parish of Jardim da Serra, has a lot more to offer than its candy-coloured exterior. It’s set in a beautiful botanical garden that supplies this “Bio hotel” with fresh produce, as well as providing guests with explorations including a mini-maze, a tennis court and a scenic walk down to a babbling brook.
The view from the hotel, and also from our balcony, is breathtaking, taking in the mountainous landscape looming over the Atlantic Ocean.
While most guests come here for peace and quiet, the mansion has a colourful history. The founder, Sir Henry Veitch, is said to have belonged to a secret society that met at his mystical mansion on the last Friday of every month. Influential attendees included Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife Josephine, who was particularly fond of the gardens, reminding her of her beloved France.
When building his mansion, Veitch preserved the oldest native trees and introduced new species brought from all over the world. This heritage includes rare species of trees typical of the Laurissilva forest, and the tallest eucalyptus registered in Madeira (Eucalyptus globulus), which is 64 metres tall and has a diameter of around 10 metres.
All the rooms in Quinta da Serra are sizeable and well appointed – our bed is frankly enormous. The mini bar is available to order, but we opt for drinks and sandwiches in a cosy bar with quiet booths. Called Henry’s Bar, it’s presumably named after the noble founder. Like many Madeira quintas, this one merges an historic mansion with modern extensions, meaning more guests can be accommodated.
But even though Quinta da Serra is fully booked during our stay, it never feels crowded. There is always space to sit, wander, soak up the sun or – when sun is lacking – marvel at the mountain mist. Many guests come to unwind in the health club, with a heated indoor pool, spa, sauna, massage cabin and gym. Should you need refreshments, the cafe-bar staff can be summoned from the main house via a phone.
Quinta da Serra’s main restaurant is the aptly-named Green Valley, which shares the spectacular mountain view and offers omelets to order and a varied buffet breakfast. The evening menu blends traditional local dishes with contemporary international fare and is decoratively presented: my goat’s cheese starter comes adorned with garden flowers, while the banana fritter dessert is well washed down with a glass of the local Madeira.
When they’re not rejuvenating themselves in the health club, typical Quinta da Serra guests go for a hike. Reception staff are helpful in advising us about local treks and take the initiative to print out information about those we’ve enquired about. Popular walks are along ‘levadas’, a network of irrigation channels that have become hiking paths.
As I love a long, scenic walk but don’t enjoy steep hills, we opt for PR18, aka Levada do Rei. It’s an hour’s drive from the hotel but totally worth it, with jaw-dropping views. The walk takes about three and a half hours in beautiful scenery, though you need sturdy footwear and a steady walk – there’s a vertigo-inducing drop below the bracken on the relatively narrow path. If you’re up for a hike closer to the hotel, try the Levada da Serra d’Agua or the 25 Fontes (PR6). Make sure you book a space first as walks are limited to prevent overcrowding.
For a more chilled day trip, don’t miss Câmara de Lobos, a picturesque fishing village once visited by Winston Churchill. Churchill painted the landscape he saw, and a statue now commemorates that moment. We enjoy sitting outside charming little restaurants on winding streets, taking in the view and the slower pace of life.
On our last morning, Quinta da Serra moves from serene mist to blazing sunshine. It’s a typically varied day in Madeira, but this setting lends itself to all seasons. Whether you’re lying by the indoor pool or exploring the gardens, it’s great to be in the pink.
Tell Me More About Hotel Quinta Da Serra
Hotel Quinta da Serra, Estrada do Chote, 4 9325-140 Câmara de Lobos , Madeira Portugal
T: +351 291 640 120 :Info@hotelquintadaserra.com
Rooms from £108 a night.
For more information on Levadas, check out Visit Madeira
Photos (C) Ben Robards.
