Andy Mossack dines at Copper Chimney Westfield, the first UK outpost of an Indian family-owned culinary empire.
When JK Kapur left Pakistan for Mumbai in 1947 as a refugee following India’s partition, little did he know that 25 years later, after trying various odd jobs including dabbling in film distribution, he would be founding a restaurant empire stretching not just across India (where it is almost an institution), but in Malaysia, the UAE, Kuwait and now the UK.
A keen cook, food was always a passion for JK in the Kapur family home so there should be no surprise that Kapur threw caution to the wind and ended up opening his first Copper Chimney in 1972. He pioneered the show kitchen format in India. A country with questionable hygiene, it was transformative for customers to be able to see the chefs hard at work. He turned the making of bread tossing into pure culinary theatre, and only ever cooked to order.
This format has been religiously carried through in every restaurant over the last 50 years and with both dine-in restaurants and delivery-only kitchens, they are looking to expand to at least 50 outlets around the world.
Armed with this tantalising background I was looking forward to enjoying a Kapur-inspired Undivided North Indian feast in Westfield. Something of an ambitious move you might think, opening your first UK outpost in a shopping centre. But this is Westfield remember, a veritable magnet for both well-heeled west Londoners and tourists alike.
Copper Chimney Westfield on the South Terrace at Westfield mirrors all its other siblings with its copper tones, fresh high-end feel, hanging copper ceiling bells and of course, the glass- fronted open kitchen theatre where, as if on cue, the chefs were duly installed tossing their stretched-dough rotis high in the air.
While I checked out the menu my waiter suggested a cocktail. “I am rather partial to a whisky one?”
“Then I suggest our Achari Whiskey (£11.95) – Jack Daniels, sourmash, ginger and mango”.
It was utterly delicious. That punchy whiskey kick but countered by a lovely tangy mango flavour.
Our lovely waiter was back after spotting we were closing in our food choices. “Everything here is made in-house, including the chutneys, sauces and breads”.
With that in mind we kicked off with some sharing starters,
Kadak Roomali (£6.75) a giant crispy upturned cone of handkerchief-thin bread freshly cooked over a hot tawa filled with tiny morsels of spicy tomatoes and onions and served with a selection of house-made chutneys. Forget your run of the mill papadums, this was on another level. There is something quite satisfying about breaking up a giant conical object and dousing the shards into a trio of tasty chutneys. Green pea and aloo samosas (£7.45) another crispy winner and last but not least aloo tikki chaat (£8.75).
Both of these dishes straight out of Bollywood central casting street food stalls, giving me fond memories of steamy nights in Old Delhi. The chaat a generous mountain of spicy potato and sweet and sour chickpeas. Very moreish. Everything beautifully fresh.
Some epic starters washed down with draught Cobras. This was all going very well I would say.
On to the mains now and time to indulge. Chutney fish (£18.99) a generous fillet of chargrilled sea bass marinated in a very tasty green mint and lemon chutney. The fish was perfectly cooked, flaky and delicious. Butter chicken (£12.95) a favourite in most curry houses, but this was clearly a Kapur elevated version. Boneless tandoori chicken simmered in Copper Chimney signature tomato gravy with added butter and fenugreek. Wickedly indulgent but well worth it.
And two of my favourites – often popular breakfast dishes in Northern India; chowk ke subzi (£8.75) fresh mixed vegetables and mushrooms tossed with onions and served in a mild marsala sauce, and bazaar ke chole £8.95 chickpeas soaked overnight and infused with tea leaves and spices with added pomegranate powder.
We added a side of lasooni spinach (£5.75) as an extra treat, fresh pureed palak (spinach) cooked with lashings of fresh garlic (lasoon).
It was an excellent feast fit for a maharajah. I could taste individual flavours in every dish, which for me, is always the litmus test for excellent curries.
We were just about to throw in the towel when our waiter appeared again imploring us to try the signature home-made dessert gajar pistachio crumble (6.95). A classic carrot pudding reimagined by Copper Chimney chefs with a sort of cardamon, sweetened milk and chopped pistachio ice cream covered with praline crumble.
Honestly? Probably one of the finest Indian desserts I’ve tasted. Not deadly sweet as they tend to be, crunchy, palate cleansing and totally delicious. My, what a finale!
Copper Chimney Westfield was a total delight from start to finish. The ambience was relaxed contemporary, the service outstanding but not intrusive, the food was clearly top drawer yet still very affordable.
It’s clear to me why JK Kapur’s legacy has lasted for over half a century. The family have kept strictly to his founding principles and it’s paid off handsomely. If you’re not in London, it can only be a matter of time before the Copper Chimney expansion comes to a theatre near you.
He would be so proud. Highly recommended.
All food images (C) Andy Mossack
Tell me more about Copper Chimney Westfield.
Copper Chimney Westfield, Southern Terrace, Ariel Way, London, W12 7GA
For reservations click here. E: info@copperchimney.co.uk T: 020 8059 4439
Sun – Thurs: 12:00 – 21:30 Fri & Sat: 12:00 – 22:30
For weekday dining, the Thali lunch, priced at £15, offers a generous serving including a choice of curry, a side, and accompaniments. Guests also have the option to add a dessert and beverage for a minimal additional charge.
