Lynne Coates enjoys Andalusian culture, gastronomy and flamenco in a best weekend in Granada
Checking into the Vincci Albayzin Hotel, my husband has difficulty believing I was unaware that El Corte Inglés, the famous Spanish department store, is practically next door, or that we are in the heart of Granada’s shopping district. However, the location of this delightful boutique hotel, on the Carrera de la Virgen, has greater significance.
This beautiful, tree-lined boulevard happens to be one of the most important, historic streets in Granada, connecting the areas of the Alhambra and Albaicin. On either side of the boulevard are historic buildings and squares, including the Basilica of Our Lady of the Anguish, one of the most emblematic neoclassical style buildings. We only have to step outside the hotel and we are within walking distance of many of the main attractions. With map in hand, we set off to explore this great city.
With our visit to Granada’s most famous attraction, the Alhambra, booked for the next day, we decide to spend the afternoon exploring the areas near the hotel. The nearby streets prove fascinating. After navigating through a maze of alleyways, we find ourselves in the Realejo (old Jewish quarter), a steep labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets, where thought-provoking street art decorates crumbling walls of dilapidated buildings.
We come across a small, yellow-painted building that is the Sephardic Jewish Museum and are disappointed that entry is by prior appointment only. As we continue upwards the views become ever more dramatic and I am glad I am wearing sensible footwear as Granada is built on a series of hillsides.
A few hours of exploring leave us in need of refreshment, and we head down to Calle Reyes Católicos, the main shopping area, where we find a choice of cafés. I want to try a ‘Pionono’, a typical sweet cake from Granada, which I find in one of the more traditional-looking cafés. This cylindrical-shaped, soft sponge, wrapped around a sweet cream and apple filling, is delicious, and perfect with my café con leche.
The Alhambra and its magnificent palaces and gardens, attract tourists from around the world, and pre-booking is essential to guarantee entrance. We visit in out-of-season January, but there are still queues. You can pre-book tours, but, with the help of a guidebook, we decide to plan our own route. The views from the Alcazaba are staggering, the vast city landscape merging into the mountainous horizon.
Don’t miss the Archaeological Museum, (it’s fascinating), or the Museum of Fine Arts, both housed in the Palace of Charles V. Meander through the Palace of the Generalife and the spectacular gardens. As we are visiting in winter, they lack the vibrant shrubbery that emerges in Spring. Be sure to allow plenty of time to cover all the sites – these magnificent monuments should not be hurried. A regular bus service runs between the city centre and the Alhambra. At €1.60 it’s a bargain as the steep walk up to the Alhambra takes time and can be challenging in summer heat.
After our visit, and craving a tapas lunch, we head back down into the city centre to Calle Navas Los Diamantes (known as Tapas Street). This atmospheric, narrow street is crammed, with tapas bars, serving mainly seafood, although some of the upmarket (expensive) ones offer a more varied menu. There is a custom in Granada of serving one free tapa when you order a drink, so bar-hopping, not surprisingly, is a popular tradition. The street does get very busy, especially at the weekend, so it’s best to avoid peak times to be sure of a table.
Another tradition in Granada is Flamenco. I love Flamenco – the music, the passion and, of course, those incredible dresses! There is a good choice of flamenco shows but some can be rather ‘touristy’. We decide on a venue in the Albaicin area, one of the oldest parts of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
It is also the Arab quarter with a crowded souk in its atmospheric maze-like streets. Stallholders noisily ply their wares while tempting smells of exotic spices and freshly-cooked falafel permeate the air. We book into a small theatre known as a ‘Tablao’ (a wooden stage, designed especially to amplify the sound of the dancers’ footwork). Casa Ana flamenco show does not disappoint. With dynamic ‘zapateado’, the group of just four, (two dancers, one singer and one guitar playing musician), give a mesmerising performance.
A truly authentic interpretation of classical flamenco story-telling, with soulful singing, frenzied and passionate dancing – I leave wanting more.
We return to the Albaicin the following day to walk along the ‘Paseo de los Tristes’, known as the ‘saddest’ street. Running along the lower part of the neighbourhood alongside the Darro River, it earned the nickname in the 19th century as the main route for funeral processions travelling to the city’s cemetery. Despite that, it’s one of the most popular, romantic and picturesque walks, lined with specialist boutiques, craft shops and restaurants.
I am enticed into the Patio de los Perfumes, housed in a former Renaissance Palace, this emporium of delicious scents is well worth a visit. We are here on a Sunday morning and it is teaming with visitors and locals. In the Plaza San Gregorio, local couples are animatedly dancing the tango to the delight of a gathering crowd.
I am reluctant to leave Granada, an intriguing, romantic Andalusian city that gets under your skin and into your soul. I will be back.
Tell me more about this best weekend in Granada.
For more about these suggestions and other sights in Grenada and booking tickets for the Alhambra, Please visit Turgranada Tourist information
Recommended Hotel
Vincci Albayzin: offers double rooms (low season) from around £120. Prices will vary. Additional charge for basement car park
