Rupert Parker goes biking and walking the Leicestershire National Forest
Over the last 30 years 200 square miles of Leicestershire, Derbyshire and Staffordshire have been transformed dramatically. A landscape that was once scarred by coal mining and clay extraction has become the National Forest. Over 9.5 million trees have been planted and it’s worth exploring both on foot and by E-bike.
At its heart lie the towns and attractions of North West Leicestershire – places like Coalville, historic estates, hidden monasteries, and lively heritage railways. This is not a single destination but a patchwork of experiences, where every stop reveals a different side of the region’s story.
Day 1 Walk: Normanton le Heath to Hastings Retreat 6 miles
I start just outside Coalville by Jubilee Woods, a large area of new woodland on an old mining site. Established in 2012 to mark 60 years of the Queen’s reign, and over 300,000 new trees have been planted.
The path leads downhill past a large lake and climbs again to reach the village of Normanton le Heath. Here I join the National Forest Way, which winds 75 miles through the entire National Forest, and follow purple markers across fields to Packington, Leaving through the churchyard, and crossing the busy A42, I’m soon on Willesby Park Golf Course.
More new National Forest follows, this time on the site of Thortit Colliery, and I end my walk at my base for the next two nights, Hastings Retreat. I’m staying in one of their luxury barn conversions and there are stunning views of the countryside and the lake below. It’s also home to Naughty Hare, a micro gin distillery, so I enjoy a guided tasting with co-owner Gabriela Silion
Day 2 Cycle: Hastings Retreat to The Milking Parlour 14 miles
The first part of today’s cycle ride takes me to Hicks Lodge, This is the National Forest Cycling Centre, also a former mining area, now a mix of cycle trails and forest walks. I carry on passing the Moira Canal Basin and the restored blast furnace building, and join the towpath and then an old railway line.
Gorse Lane takes me uphill and near the top I meet Dave McDowell, a famous local beekeeper. He’s developed a sustainable beekeeping business within the National Forest. Dave the Bee manages hives across the region and produces award-winning honey, while also delivering educational experiences.
My journey continues along quiet lanes, through small villages, including Smisby where’s there’s a village lockup built into the wall by the church. It’s said that Sir Walter Scott decided to write the novel Ivanhoe when he went to the top of the tower and saw the tournament field in the valley below.
A long woodland track through walnut fields leads to the Ferrers Centre for Arts and Crafts at Staunton Harold Hall. It houses a wide range of artisan craft workshops, as well as the popular Stables cafe and deli. Very close is The Milking Parlour, home to the Tollgate craft brewery. A pint of their excellent beer and homemade pizza is lunch.
Afternoon Walk: Milking Parlour to Hastings Retreat 8 miles
My walk back to Hastings Retreat again follows the National Forest Way. Although this is mostly through new forest, I start in old woodland with lots of hazel trees, now managed by the National Trust.
I follow the distinctive purple markers, thinking I can’t get lost, but indeed do lose my way in the middle of woodland. Of course, it’s my own fault but the consolation is masses of bluebells in the scattered sunlight. I retrace my steps and eventually reach the charming town of Ashby de la Zouch.
I’d planned to visit the ruins of the castle, once a Royalist stronghold during the English Civil War, but am too tired. A shame as it’s featured in the novel Ivanhoe and offers great views over the area. From here I pass the Hicks Lodge Cycle Centre, before climbing back up to Hastings Retreat.
Day 3 Cycle Hastings Retreat to Quorn Station 25 miles
My first stop today is the 1620’s House and Garden, tucked away in the village of Donington le Heath. One of the oldest buildings in Leicestershire, the house has been completely restored to provide an insight into life in the 1620s. Back then it was owned by the Digby family who were involved in the Gunpowder Plot.
From here, the route follows a Sustrans trail through the heart of Snibston Colliery Park. Situated in the centre of Coalville, it’s one of the best preserved former colliery sites in the country, started back in 1832 by George and Robert Stephenson. It closed in 1983 and the highlight is an underground tour to the pit face.
The landscape starts to change as I climb up into the craggy hills of Charnwood Forest Geopark. One of the highest points is Mount St Bernard Abbey, founded in 1835 and the first permanent catholic monastery in England after the Reformation. It’s also the UK’s only producer of Trappist beer, Tynt Meadow, and you can buy it in the shop.
Shortly afterwards I reach Beacon Hill Country Park once the location of a burning beacon to warn folks of danger. The Park is the Eastern end of the National Forest Way, as well as the start point for the Coal and Canopy Way, a new long distance cycle route through the National Forest.
My final destination is Quorn and Woodhouse station, one of only four on the Great Central Railway, which runs eight miles from Loughborough to Leicester North. It’s the UK’s only heritage railway with double tracks and both steam and diesel engines ply the route.
The station was used for D- Day preparations and has retained its 1940’s theme, complete with NAAFI style Refreshment Room . Today there’s a Diesel Festival and I’m reminded of train journeys in my childhood as I board the train back to Leicester North, the end of the line. It’s also the end of my journey in the National Forest.
Tell Me More About Biking And Walking The Leicestershire National Forest
East Midlands Trains link London’s St Pancras with Leicester in around an hour. National Forest E-Bike Holidays specialises in self-guided electric bike and luxury walking holidays in the National Forest.
Hastings Retreat makes a perfect base and is 100% carbon neutral with wind turbine power. Naughty Hare offers gin tastings onsite.
Visit Leicester has information about Leicester and Leicestershire.
Stables cafe at Staunton Harold has excellent coffee and cake.
The Milking Parlour brews its own beer and has great pizza.
Zamanis Restaurant in Ashby de la Zouch offers tasty Italian food at good prices with locally sourced ingredients.
Such a lovely way to explore an area and really getting close to nature and away from the hum drum of the busy everyday life. Looks like the weather was good too.