Lynne Coates goes on safari in the exclusive Lepogo Lodges in the UNESCO Waterberg Biosphere.
Hendrie, our safari guide, points to what looks like a wide tyre track – ‘that’s been made very recently by a huge python’ he tells us nonchalantly – not what I need to hear on our first safari. Much to my relief we are not confronted by any pythons, but we do experience the most eye-watering wildlife encounters while on safari in the Limpopo Province of South Africa.
A three-hour drive from Johannesburg airport brings us to the exclusive Lepogo Lodges in the heart of the Lapalala Wilderness. The reserve encompasses some 50,000 hectares within the Waterberg region. The size of the reserve and its rich biodiversity make it the first region in the northern part of South Africa to be declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO.
Hendrie meets us at the entrance to the reserve, where we exchange our rental car for the sturdy Land Cruiser that is to become our viewing platform for an astonishing safari adventure. On arrival at Noka Camp, Serena and Ntombi welcome us with trays of cool hand wipes and refreshing cocktails, a daily ritual we quickly get used to!
We follow Serena along a raised wooden walkway, arriving at our villa to unparalleled luxury and panoramic jaw-dropping vistas. While half-listening to Serena explaining how to operate the iPad that controls all the systems, I focus on the infinity plunge pool, viewing deck and free-standing bath. Our villa, entirely solar-powered, has been meticulously crafted with luxurious furnishings, contemporary design seamlessly blending with African artifacts.
An inviting open shower aligns with a double sink, and a “loo with a remarkable view” is neatly hidden behind frosted doors. Out by the pool is an irresistible alfresco shower, and beautifully packaged amenities are provided in all areas. The inviting lounge area has an open log fire for cold winter nights, a well-stocked bar, fridge, and Nespresso machine.
A selection of glossy wildlife books are posed on a coffee table, overlooked by a magnificent painting of a lion – I already feel Africa permeating my soul. I imagine lying on the sumptuous bed with its staggering views, but we are expected for lunch, so we head back to the main lodge where Ntombi and Ephraim, are awaiting us.
Tables are arranged discreetly on an alfresco terrace for lunch with an indoor dining area for evenings. Both are designed for intimacy so guests are undisturbed by others. I notice a few honeymoon couples enjoying their own company out on the terrace. Located atop a 100 ft cliff overlooking the Palala River and Lapalala reserve, the setting of Lopogo Lodges could not be more romantic. The food, created by local chefs, is a delicious fusion of Asian, African and international influences, beautifully presented and served by the engaging duo, Ntombi and Ephraim – professional, friendly and just a little bit sassy – a rare combination. We loved them.
Safaris take place early morning and late afternoon for the best sightings of wildlife. After a lingering lunch, Hendrie arrives for our afternoon safari. In a vast reserve there are no guarantees what you may see or when. While a guide may have some idea where the animals might be found, it is the unexpected sightings that make safaris so exciting.
The reserve boasts the magnificent eight – lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros, cape buffalo, cheetah, African wild dog and pangolin. I’m hoping for sightings of my favourites, giraffes and zebras. I don’t have to wait long before a family of giraffes, including a beautiful long-lashed baby, amble along beside us. I am ecstatic. Conservation is a priority on the reserve, and its cheetah breeding programme has proved very successful, (the name ‘Lepogo’ means cheetah in the local Sotho language).
Hendrie invites us to take a bush walk to get up close to a group of male cheetahs who have been spotted resting nearby. He assures me they will take little notice of us, but I’m happy he has a precautionary gun. Magic moments are hard to define, but being so close to these exquisite animals is definitely one.
We sleep well under that infinitely star-kissed sky until dawn and a 6.30 am wake-up for the morning safari. Hendrie meets us with hot water bottles and blankets – it registers 2 degrees on the Land Cruiser’s dash, and I’m glad I packed my fleece. Sightings of lions are unpredictable as they are constantly on the move, but one of the trackers has alerted Hendrie to a sighting and he is on a mission to find them.
Hanging on to the Land Cruiser’s rollover bars as he drives through a gorge, I’m convinced the lions are teasing us, appearing and disappearing, then eventually revealing themselves through a clearing. They give us our moment – a frantic blast of shutter releases and they are off. Afterwards Hendrie parks up by a serene lake for our morning coffee with a dash of delicious Amarula (a south African liqueur), where we glory in our morning’s adventure.
We enjoy four land safaris during our three days stay, and one memorable water safari, where a baby hippo unexpectedly jumps out of the water in front of us – there aren’t words for precious moments like that.
Lepogo is entirely not-for-profit. The owner is committed to ploughing all profits into local communities to ensure future generations of both wildlife and people will be able to enjoy and thrive in a protected environment. The ethos of protecting and conserving this incredible land is what makes Lepogo Lodges and the Lapalala Wilderness unique.
It is difficult to leave our luxurious villa, and even harder to say goodbye to the wonderful team that manage the lodges. If I could conjure up my vision of paradise, Lepogo Lodges and the Lapalala Wilderness would be it.
All photos (C) Lynne Coates.
Tell me more about Lepogo Lodges in the Lapalala Wilderness
Lynne’s trip was booked with Safari and Beach Specialists in Africa travel and safaris.
E:Josh.coates@safariandbeach.com T: 07903 648380
For a 4 night stay £2,400 pp, includes all meals, drinks and safari activities.
