Lynne Coates goes aboard Star Clippers sailing ship Star Flyer to cruise Croatia, Italy, Sicily and Montenegro.
Docked at Venice’s Terminal San Basilio, the four-masted barquentine, Star Flyer, is an evocative sight. After an easy embarkation and with ‘Bon Voyage’ cocktails in hand, we head up to the top deck for unrivalled views of Venice as Star Flyer gracefully sails along the Grand Canal. The haunting sounds of Vangelis’s, ‘Conquest of Paradise’, Star Clipper’s signature sail-away music, perfectly syncs with an eye-watering Venetian sunset, as we set sail to our first destination.
Our itinerary will take us to Croatia, Montenegro, Sicily and Italy – eleven nights and ten days of glorious sailing and stunning destinations. Unpacking in our ‘bijoux’ cabin presented challenges, but storage was ample, even for my clothes (I don’t do minimal!). Don’t expect spacious cabins on sailing ships, but what they lack in space they more than compensate in style and character.
Back in the Tropical Bar, the hub for all on-board social activities, there is the obligatory safety briefing, and we meet our fellow passengers and crew. Axel, our cruise director, impressively fluent in English, German and Spanish, delivers our daily briefings and destination information with a flourish of humour. Passengers who cruise on sailing ships tend to be an interesting bunch, and we easily make friends.
Croatia
Sailing along the Croatian coast, our first stop is Mali Losinj, a small town with pastel – coloured, Mediterranean-style houses fringing the pretty harbour. A popular seaside resort, it has beachy coves, rich marine biodiversity, and lush green forests.
From Mali Losinj we sail to the island of Hvar, known as the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’. Heady scents of Hvar’s trademark lavender linger in the air of Hvar town, and we are captivated by its ancient stone buildings and cobbled winding streets
Brimming with art galleries, jewellery shops and chic boutiques, Hvar has an energetic, slightly bohemian vibe. Reputedly the sunniest island in the Adriatic, with its glorious coves of crystal-clear water, Hvar has become a tourist hotspot. We put it on our ‘revisit’ list. The last of our Croatian destinations, Dubrovnik, is probably the most culturally fascinating.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, walking along its ancient city walls has become a major tourist attraction. Ideally it takes more than a day to truly appreciate all the historic sites in Dubrovnik. With soaring summer temperatures around 30c, and having visited the city before, we settle for a stroll around the centre, and a much-needed gelato. Back on board, we are entertained by a Dalmatian Folklore Group, who give us a fine performance of regional songs, before we depart for Montenegro.
Montengro
We navigate the Verige Strait, the narrowest choke point, of the fjord-shaped bay of Kotor, one of Montenegro’s most emblematic destinations. With its stunning backdrop of mountain ranges and medieval ramparts, cobbled streets combine with historic architecture in a maze of picturesque, winding alleyways.
Kotor is also known as the city of cats, where street cats roam freely, a symbol of good luck from the days when cats were taken on board ships to kill any rats and encouraged because they rid city streets of vermin. These days they have become a tourist attraction, fed and looked after by locals.
Cat lovers will be thrilled with the choice of cat souvenirs! The charismatic old town, echoing with different genres of live music, is a vibrant mix of sidewalk cafés and bars, buzzing with atmosphere. On board its ‘white party night’ and, after dinner, Axel coerces us all into dancing round the pool on top deck, while the crew steer a course to Italy.
Italy
The coastal town of Otranto is in the Puglia region of southern Italy. With its whitewashed buildings, Aragonese Castle and 11th century cathedral, it’s charming and authentic, and one of the less touristy places. Sailing on to Sicily we enjoy a sea day and, with no schedules to meet, we enjoy reclining on sunbeds with a good book, while some take on the challenge of mast climbing. I admit, with no head for heights, it’s not something that appeals, but I’m assured the view from the crow’s nest is staggering.
We arrive at Giardini Naxos on Sicily’s east coast. Star Flyer offers excursions to Mount Etna, but we decide to take a taxi up the steep hill to the popular tourist destination, Taormina. A great city to wander, with spectacular Mediterranean Sea views, medieval architecture, and narrow cobbled streets, it’s also great for shopping and eating – we do both! As we sail away from Sicily to the Amalfi coast we pass by Stromboli, the active volcanic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, which treats us to an eruption – an awesome sight!
The Italian Island of Lipari, the largest on the Aelian Archipelago, is enchanting. From its lively marina we walk up the steep streets, lined with little shops and cafes, to the historic Cathedral of San Bartolomeo.
From here you can walk around the ancient walls with breathtaking views over the island’s beautiful coastline. Amalfi, our next port, is one of the most popular tourist destinations, known for its magnificent Duomo di Sant’Andrea and its production of large lemons, which appear on everything from clothes to crockery. ‘Sorbetto al limone’, a delicious sorbet served in a whole lemon, is ‘a must’, and every influencer’s ‘photo op’!
We sail on to Ponza, the largest of the Pontine Islands. Its harbour is lined with a multitude of fishing boats, and an upper level has boutiques, souvenir shops and restaurants. Ponza is one of Italy’s hidden gems with an authentic vibe, providing a perfect ending for what has been a brilliant itinerary.
Back in the Tropical Bar, our final cocktail of the day is ‘Pina Colada’. Star Flyer’s fabulous crew gives us a flag- waving parade in the dining room, and our captain hosts a farewell dinner as we set sail for our final destination, Civitavecchia. We bid goodbye to our new friends and toast to more cruises aboard Star Clippers’ great sailing ships.
Images (C) Lynne Coates
Tell me more about Star Clippers Cruising in the Med with Star Flyer
11- nights on board Star Flyer, cruising destinations in Croatia, Montenegro, Sicily and Italy. Departs July 2nd 2026 & August 20th 2026
From £2980pp. Price based on 2 adults sharing a category 6 cabin. Includes 10% Early Booking Discount and port charges. Early Booking Discount valid until 31st January 2026. T: 01473 2426
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