Andy Mossack reviews The Cottage in the Wood Malvern; a beautiful boutique restaurant-with-rooms-concept perched right on the Malvern Hills in Worcestershire.
Those Benedictine Monks up in the Great Malvern Priory knew a thing or two about Malvern’s healing spring waters as far back as 1085 when their Holy Well attained almost reverential status. But seemingly, nobody else took much notice until the Victorians discovered the health benefits of mineral water spas, created a craze, and the rest, as they say, is history particularly for the spa town of Great Malvern.
All that precious mineral water comes from rain falling directly over the Malvern Hills, a network of twenty granite peaks running north to south over thirteen kilometres, with the highest, Worcester Beacon, measuring 425 metres above sea level. Up there, the views of the Severn Valley and The Cotswolds beyond are spectacular. And to this day the Hills are quite literally blessed with natural wells wherever you look.
All this leads me rather nicely to the once substantial Blackmore Park Estate, formerly owned by John Vincent Gandolfi a Genoese silk merchant. It was all sold off many moons ago and eight acres of it now belong to the Cottage in the Wood now owned and run by Nick and Julia Davies since 2015. During that time, they’ve undertaken a complete renovation and redesign over the entire property including a 25 seat all-season outdoor-covered terrace.
Funnily enough The Cottage in the Wood is not a cottage (although there is one on the estate) but a clutch of striking Victorian-era properties all beautifully renovated, perched halfway up those famous Malvern Hills. There’s a certain majesty up here with panoramic views looking outward whilst being dwarfed by giant chunks of granite rockface behind you.
Beautiful guestrooms.
There are 32 guestrooms making up five categories at The Cottage in the Wood; Cosy, Classic, Very Good, Great, and Best. These are spread across the estate within the Main House, Beech Cottage, the Coach House and two fully fitted self-catering properties – The Chapel and The Studio.
My room was a Best in the Coach House on the ground floor, and it was well worthy of the name. Spacious enough to be classed a junior suite in many other hotels, with patio doors leading out to a small terrace with table and chairs offering up a spectacular view of the Severn Valley. A huge bed dominated a room painted in a soft pastel green with two comfy armchairs positioned in front of the patio doors, perfect for reading and taking in the scenery.
Tea, coffee and hot chocolate was on offer plus some delicious homemade flapjack snacks replenished every day. A full-length free-standing mirror stood in the corner.
Then, a welcome surprise. Sitting proudly on the dressing table was what seemed at first glance to be a a vintage wooden turntable complete with vinyl albums; The Beatles classic Seargent Pepper, a Rolling Stones compilation, and a collection of Elgar classics which will become obvious shortly. But imagine my surprise when I realised this was no antique turntable but a super modern box of musical accessories which included a DAB radio, Bluetooth streaming, CD player and even a tape cassette slot!
Needless to say, the vinyl was put to good use instantly.
Lastly, the bathroom was equally spacious with a shower cabinet, rolltop bathtub and natural and indulgent Bramley toiletries. I can honestly say this was the first time I have showered in hot mineral water so pure you could drink it while showering!
Now that is indulgent.
Selected rooms in the Coach House are also dog friendly as are the self-catering guest houses.
An outstanding restaurant.
The food service, lorded over by culinary magician and head chef Mark Potts, was outstanding from start to finish. The main dining space is The Brasserie, offering breakfast lunch and dinner. However, Thursday to Saturday the much-decorated 1919 Restaurant is open, offering a 7- course tasting menu plus a few chef surprises that allow Mark to really show off his book of culinary spells. It boasts 3 AA Rosettes (the only restaurant in Malvern that does), it’s twice won Worcestershire Restaurant of the Year, and it’s listed in the 2025 edition of the Michelin Guide.
Restaurant Manager Rachel is a total force of Nature, and together with her two daughters and the rest of the team, managed the table service with professional efficiency and discretion. She can also knock out a mean Espresso Martini by the way, telling me beforehand “the big secret is the coffee must be chilled”. Noted Rachel.
The Brasserie fare is British sourced, excellent quality and the portions generous. I fell in love with the cauliflower tempura while the apple and cinnamon crumble wasn’t too shoddy either.
While 1919s tasting menu was a more formal affair, Mark’s obsession to detail and seasonality was evident in every dish. As he mentioned at the end of service “seasonality is everything to me, and this time of the year (January) is the hardest for food selection”. Be that as it may, you would never have known it.
Famous artists and authors.
Walking the Malvern Hills has inspired many storied musicians and authors including Edward Elgar, Tolkien and C.S. Lewis. Elgar lived in the area all his life and often gave piano and violin lessons in what is now the local post office in Malvern. He even gave a violin recital in the Coach House at Cottage in the Wood. There are various Elgar trails to follow around the region.
On the other hand, while you’re hiking along the Malvern Ridge you might think some of the landscape looks familiar, particularly if you’re a fan of Tolkien’s Middle Earth. It is said Tolkien created his map of Middle Earth and in particular, the White Mountains bordering Rohan and Gondor, while out walking the Hills. Perhaps he was looking longingly at the Black Mountains you can spot in the distance. One other Tolkien gem surrounds a gentleman I mentioned at the beginning. One John Vincent Gandolfi, who owned the estate the hotel stands on. Sound wizardly familiar?
Last but by no means least is C.S. Lewis, a close friend of Tolkien and a frequent walking partner. When stepping out of the Unicorn pub in Malvern one winter’s night he spotted a gas lamp shining in the snow flurries. He is claimed to have said “this would make a nice opening line to a book”. Anyone reading the first chapter of The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe might just spot something similar.
Seduced by the Malvern Hills.
Honestly, I’ve fallen in love with this particular corner of England. As co-owner Julia pointed out to me “The Malverns are not as groomed as the Cotswolds or as rugged as the Lake District. We’re sort of in-between” which is fine by me as that translates as beautiful but not over-touristed.
The Davies’s have done an outstanding job in giving this Victorian dame a new lease of life as one of Worcestershire’s top contemporary boutique foodie destinations. Gandalf’s magic powers are not needed here and I can’t wait to return to The Cottage in the Wood Malvern.
Images (C) The Cottage in the Wood.
Tell me more about The Cottage in the Wood Malvern.
The Cottage in the Wood Malvern, Holywell Rd, Malvern Wells, Malvern WR14 4LG
E: reception@cottageinthewood.co.uk T: 01684 588860
A one-night B&B stay in a ‘Cosy Room’ at The Cottage in the Wood Malvern is priced from £104 per night for two adults sharing. This is based on travel in low season. Great rooms from £159 per night for two adults sharing.Best rooms from £177 per night for two adults sharing. These are guide rates, to get the best rates and special offer packages it is always best to check directly with the Cottage in the Wood by phone or on their website.(see above).
Restaurants
To book a table in 1919 Restaurant (7 course tasting menu £95 pp winde flights £95pp) or The Brasserie please call 01684 588 860 or email reception@cottageinthewood.co.uk.
Yet another gem has been found by Andrew Mossack. I loved the references to Tolkien , the area and of course the original owner .
You are such a lucky man to get to see these places and eat such wonderful food. Keep up the good work.