Rob Rees reviews Artichoke Restaurant and Enjoys The Innovative Cooking & Hospitality Of Celebrated Chef Laurie Gear And Team.
Tucked into the picture-perfect streets of Old Amersham, Artichoke isn’t just a restaurant but the life’s work of Laurie Gear & wife Jaqueline. The cooking is confident, clever and full of quiet creativity whilst retaining a grounded simplicity. It showcases the best of seasonal British produce, no better exemplified than in the new summer lunch tasting menu.
Artichoke was opened in 2002 by Laurie, a self-taught Dorset chef with a passion for modern British food rooted in classic European technique. Laurie bagged a stint in Denmark at famed Noma in Copenhagen after a fire temporarily shut the Artichoke in 2008, gaining new, eye-opening experience under legendary René Redzepi.
Laurie first met wife Jacqueline at Coombe House in Devon (now The Pig at Combe). They have subsequently turned a modest site in Old Amersham into one of the UK’s most respected food destinations, quietly building a reputation for meticulous cooking and relaxed, unpretentious service. It was always the Gear’s ambition to create a loved neighbourhood restaurant, taking their inspiration at the time from their London favourites Chez Bruce and La Trompette.
The primary goal was to offer great food without the dreadful culinary pretence, all pervasive back in the early noughties when they came to set up in Amersham.
23 years on and they’ve more than achieved this vision. By 2013 The Artichoke had received Three AA Rosettes and was named AA England Restaurant of the Year. The crowning achievement in 2019 was the award of a Michelin star, which the restaurant has now successfully retained for 6 years in a row. National accolades abound. You name it, they’ve achieved it. And early guest, Raymond Blanc, has become a trusted friend, inspiring and mentoring the couple as they have steadily become better and better.
After years behind the stove, Laurie is now Chef Patron and whilst still involved at the pass for every single plate, he has brought in capable Head Chef Chris Chegwin to lead the kitchen.
Chris, earned his stripes at Simon Rogan’s Linthwaite House in the Lake District, shares Laurie’s uncluttered and ingredient-first approach. His cooking is precise but never precious. Together, they focus on regional sourcing, sustainable methods and dishes that celebrate the ‘Best of British’. Their philosophy is simple: don’t show off, don’t mess about. Just cook properly, season boldly and let the ingredients do the talking.
Its summer lunch tasting menu demonstrates this in spades – every course is a surprise of colour, texture, visual delight and immaculate technique. 6 courses for £95 is par for the course in these parts and represents brilliant value versus Central London. Amersham is easily reached off the M40 and sits at the end of the Metropolitan Line.
Our own dining journey begins humbly: a nugget of Chiltern Black Ale bread, its crust as dark and malty as treacle toffee, still warm from the oven and begging for a slab of malt butter that’s halfway to caramel. A strong opener.
An amuse bouche of cold melon & feta soup with a cannoli of ricotta & black sesame lifts the vibrancy and opens the tastebuds.
Chef Patron Laurie then cheekily squeezes in an extra course – an inventive Lyme Bay crab with cold pea jelly, cold pea soup, pea sorbet & green mixed beans, setting a clean, elegant tone for such a warm day, with intriguing textural and temperature interplay.
Next a crisp courgette flower filled with borlotti bean cream, lifted by basil pesto and a warm slick of Old Winchester custard, which sounds weird but absolutely works. Fresh garden textures countered by silky cheesy richness.
The red gurnard arrives in a delicate seaweed tea, its skin just crisped, with pickled peppers, turnips and carrots cutting cleanly through the fish’s natural sweetness. Elegant, precise and full of flavour.
The Adlington chicken course is a masterclass in Sunday roast dinner reimagined: juicy breast, crispy wing, a silky cauliflower purée, and sharp pickled romanesco. The tarragon just ties it all together.
Lamb is the undoubted star. A pink, tender saddle from Greenfield Farm with smoky lamb belly bacon, Evesham tomatoes and a dollop of house tomato ketchup that’s probably better than most. Smoked anchovy adds punch without screaming.
A delightful ‘pre-dessert’ of goats cream and vanilla Crème Diplomate with elderflower and macerated green strawberries more than cleanses the palate – it’s simply divine!
Main desserts are well-judged. A light vanilla rice pudding with roasted apricot, toasted almonds and a zingy apricot sorbet is summery and spot on. Then raspberry mousse with white chocolate jelly and chocolate sponge — sweet, sharp, fun, indulgent.
If you’ve any room left, you can finish with a selection of British cheeses (£8.50). We rather naughtily opted for coffee and three different petit fours (£7.50) – fresh ‘melt in the mouth’ Turkish delight the highlight.
The wine flight is well matched (£60) with some unusual wines, including gems from the Jura and Orvieto.
None of this happens without calm leadership and superb people at every turn. Emanuela the restaurant manager is originally from Palermo. She’s bubbly and unflappable. Louis the charming sommelier was 7 years at Le Manoir and quietly dispenses his considerable knowledge and enthusiasm. Ile, who greets you with the most enchanting of smiles, is from Italy too and manages your reservation flawlessly. Head Chef Chris is supported by Constantine the creative Sicilian sous chef and a team of hugely capable and motivated young chefs.
In summary, Artichoke Restaurant is your perfect unpretentious neighbourhood restaurant. It is the best of modern cuisine – smart without being overly formal, serious without being pompous. The lunchtime tasting menu represents fair value at £95, showcasing both contemporary trends and classic origins. You’ll witness cheffing precision and experience the most attentive, personal service.
We loved every minute and every single mouthful!
Tell Me More About Artichoke
Artichoke 9 Market Square, Old Amersham, Buckinghamshire HP7 ODF
E: reservations@artichokerestaurant.co.uk
Lunch Thursday to Saturday: 12.00 – 16.00 (last orders at 13.45)
Dinner Wednesday and Thursday: 18.15 – 23.00 (last orders at 20.45), and Friday and Saturday: 18.00 to 23.00 (last orders at 20.45)
Closed on Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays.
