Dipping my head under the water and experiencing Australia’s Great Barrier Reef for the first time, I feel I’ve stepped uninvited into  a colourful underwater world where sea life is busily going about its business just like it has for thousands of years. I have to admit I feel a bit of a voyeur, just staring at all the busyness going on around me and then I realise no one down here is remotely interested, even the giant clams seem to look at me in a disdainful sort of way. It’s a busy life and everyone’s got somewhere to go.