Sarah Kingdom Visits Newly Opened Chichele Presidential Lodge In Zambia And Discovers A Quietly Luxurious Safari Retreat Where Heritage Meets Nature.
Part historic hideaway and part wildlife sanctuary, Chichele Presidential Lodge, perched high on a hill in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, offers more than just sweeping savannah views.
There are few places where you can sit on your veranda with a coffee and watch a herd of elephants appear silently through the early morning mist. At Chichele Presidential Lodge in South Luangwa National Park, that kind of moment isn’t unusual; it’s just part of the daily routine.
I’d come to South Luangwa National Park in search of space, big skies, and a bit of bush romance. The park, in Zambia’s wild east, is one of Africa’s premier wildlife destinations, and rightly so. Once part of the Luangwa Game Reserve created in the early 1900s, South Luangwa was declared a national park in 1972. It spans over 9,000 km² and is famous for its high densities of wildlife, including some of Africa’s largest lion populations, as well as its pioneering role in the creation of the walking safari.
On a hill overlooking the Luangwa Valley, Chichele Presidential Lodge commands a view that’s hard to beat. The lodge was originally built in the 1970s as a retreat for Zambia’s first president, Dr Kenneth Kaunda, who had led Northern Rhodesia’s fight for independence from Britain. KK, as he was affectionately known, loved the bush, and South Luangwa was where he went to rest, reflect and make decisions. In its heyday, the lodge hosted heads of state, royalty and dignitaries, including Queen Elizabeth II, with Prince Philip and Prince Andrew, during her 1979 Commonwealth tour, as well as representatives of the South African ANC.
Today, Chichele has been restored, with immense respect for its history, while introducing the comfort, polish and luxurious touches that many of today’s travellers are looking for. With fabulous views overlooking the park, the Luangwa River, and the Luangwa Escarpment, renowned South African architect Jack Alexander has created a contemporary, terracotta-coloured oasis that feels both presidential and intrinsically African.
South African design duo, Fox Browne, have created fabulous interior spaces, in shades of salt, pepper, wood and copper, all referencing the lodge’s surroundings and its history (Chichele means salt in the local Chewa language). Amid contemporary African-made furniture, sit Victorian hat stands, strikingly ebonised in black, a display of old pith helmets, and cool oversized strands of glass beads. Local modern sculptures are juxtaposed with old English leather-bound books and antique prints. And a pair of black wingback armchairs used by Kaunda, who died in 2021, take pride of place, alongside a grand piano.
A little removed from the central, communal dining and lounge spaces, and on either side of an infinity pool and gym, ten stylish and spacious, earth-coloured villas have been constructed on the hillside, just below the ridgeline. Thoughtfully designed, with high ceilings and large double-height glass doors that open out onto private verandahs and plunge pools, they look out over the valley. From mine, I watched impala pick their way delicately through the grass, while kudu browsed at the treeline, and elephants ambled towards the river in a stately procession. You don’t have to go far to feel like you’re on safari here; sometimes you don’t even need to leave your room!
But the real adventure begins when you do. Morning and afternoon game drives out from Chichele Presidential Lodge, are the kind that stay with you. On one particularly memorable morning, our guide took us down to the river’s edge where we found a pride of lions lazing in the morning sun. Their bellies full, after what must have been a successful hunt the previous evening, they lay on their backs, basking in the early morning warmth. We watched them for nearly an hour, dozing, stretching, occasionally glancing over at us, as if we were worth no more than the most fleeting of thoughts.
South Luangwa is famed for its predators, but it’s the diversity of wildlife that really makes it stand out. Giraffe, buffalo, huge herds of elephant, leopards, wild dogs, countless bird species, every outing delivered something different.
Back at the lodge, there was an elegant ease to the experience. The main building has retained elements of the old-world colonial character of its past. The interiors are comfortable without being fussy. In the lounge area, you’ll find framed portraits of ‘Zambian presidents past’, vintage maps and photos, and inviting chairs facing the view. The swimming pool sits just below the main building, and from the water’s edge, you can see across the entire floodplain. It’s the kind of place that makes you slow down, because the surroundings demand it.
Meals are taken on the veranda whenever possible, with stunning daytime views, and romantic candlelight flickering as night falls and the sounds of the bush grow louder. Menus are presented to you in advance, so you can place your order and know that whenever you return from your game drive or other activity, your meal will be ready. Despite the lodge’s remote location (there are no other lodges aside from sister camp Puku Ridge for 7km), the kitchen somehow manages to deliver fresh, seasonal, delicious fare with quiet confidence.
What struck me most about Chichele, beyond the views and the game viewing, was its atmosphere. It’s luxurious, yes, but it’s not trying to impress you. Instead, it invites you to settle in, to relax, and to pay attention. You begin to notice things: the shape of a lion’s paw print in the dust, the low rumble of a passing elephant, the laugh of a hyena after lights out, the way the light shifts across the valley as the sun dips below the horizon.
On my final morning, I skipped the game drive and stayed on my verandah. A herd of elephants passed by on the floodplain below, followed by a tower of giraffes. Impala picked their way down to drink from a seasonal stream. A kudu bull, with his corkscrew horns catching the light, stood perfectly still in the shade of a sausage tree. A warthog and his family trotted across the hard, dry earth. I hadn’t moved, and yet I’d seen more than I could have hoped for.
Chichele Presidential Lodge isn’t about checking boxes or ticking off sightings, although that’s definitely available. It’s about immersion. About the privilege of being still in a wild place and letting nature come to you.
If you’re looking for a polished five-star safari, you’ll find it here, but it’s the history, the setting, and the effortless intimacy with the bush that truly set Chichele Presidential Lodge apart. This is a place with stories. And if you stay still long enough, you just might hear them.
Tell me more about Chichele Presidential Lodge
Chichele Presidential Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
Email – dosm@zambialuxurylodges.com or res@chiawa.com
T: + 260 211 261 588
Rates (All are full board)
Peak Season (1 Jul – 15 Oct) – US$ 2,000 per adult per night sharing
Shoulder season (1 Mar – 30 Jun & 16 Oct – 6 Jan) – US$ 1,400 per adult per night sharing
Single supplement 35% Children (aged 1 – 18) US$ 575
South luangwa national is the best place to visit namely chichele presidential lodge and puku ridge as well. You can watch different wild animals with or without going on your game drive.
Ohh no i just want to say you are welcome all