Rupert Parker revisits the marvellous French Ardennes, a region that deserves to be better known.

The Ardennes is a region in North Western Europe, stretching across parts of Belgium, Luxembourg, and France. It’s known for its rugged, forested terrain, rolling hills, and historical significance, bitterly fought over for centuries and in both world wars.

The French Ardennes shares many of the characteristics of its counterparts in Belgium and Luxembourg. One of France’s less visited regions, it’s a land of misty woodlands, ancient myths, and ancient battlegrounds. I travelled here a few years ago and liked it so much that I vowed to return.

Charleville-Mézières

I start in Charleville-Mézières, the region’s capital and cultural hub. At its centre is the Place Ducale, a grand 17th-century square that rivals the famous Place des Vosges in Paris. Framed by arcaded buildings in golden stone, it’s lined with lively pavement restaurants and cafés

Charleville-Mézières is also the birthplace of Arthur Rimbaud, the famous 19th-century poet. The Maison des Ailleurs, the house where Rimbaud once lived, is part museum, part poetic experience, exploring his travels and literary influence. Just steps away, the Musée Rimbaud, in an old mill by the Meuse, provides a deeper insight into his short but illustrious career.

The city is also internationally known as the world capital of puppetry. Every two years, it hosts the Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes, a 10 day spectacle of puppet artistry drawing performers and spectators from around the globe. Outside festival times, the Institut International de la Marionnette offers workshops, performances, and a puppetry museum.

Sedan

Travel southeast along the Meuse and you’ll arrive in Sedan, home to Europe’s largest fortified castle. Covering an area of over 35,000 square meters, the Château de Sedan dominates the town and transports visitors back to the Middle Ages. Originally built in the 15th century and expanded over time, the castle was both a stronghold and a princely residence.

An audio guided tour of the fortress reveals thick ramparts, gloomy dungeons, and sweeping views from the battlements. The annual Medieval Festival in May sees the fortress come alive with jousting, music, and traditional crafts. Sedan also played a pivotal role in more recent history. During the Franco-Prussian War, the Battle of Sedan in 1870 marked a turning point that led to the fall of the Second French Empire.

Rocroi

From the air, the town of Rocroi resembles a five-pointed star, a symbol of the military ingenuity of the Renaissance period. This geometric marvel was originally fortified by Francis I in the 16th century, and later improved by the famed military engineer Vauban under Louis XIV. In 1643, it was besieged by Spanish troops but the French general Louis II de Bourbon, led his troops to a decisive victory, and relieved the fortress.

The bastioned ramparts, moat, and outer earthworks still stand today, making Rocroi one of the few fortified towns in Europe whose structure remains largely intact. Despite its military history, it’s still a living town, with a population of just over 2,000. Its cobbled streets, central square, and sleepy cafés offer an authentic slice of rural French life.

 Museum of War and Peace

Located in Novion-Porcion, the Musée Guerre et Paix en Ardennes ( Museum of War and Peace in the Ardennes) tells how the Ardennes endured three major conflicts—the Franco‑Prussian War (1870), the First World War (1914–1918), and the Second World War (1939–1945). Instead of focusing on iconic battles or famous generals, the museum unravels the human and regional narrative of resilience, trauma, and regeneration.

Rising barely above ground, the museum’s architecture mirrors the protective nature of bunkers — a quiet but powerful reminder of the land’s past role as both fortress and battlefield. With life-size dioramas, interactive trenches, and battlefield reconstructions, the 5,000 m² space contains over 14,000 objects. Uniforms, weapons, vehicles and household items animate each era’s experiences.

Riverside Villages

Beyond its main towns, the Ardennes is sprinkled with picturesque villages and peaceful countryside, perfect for slow travel. The Vallée de la Meuse, where the river twists between dramatic cliffs and gentle meadows, is ideal for cycling and canoeing.

One gem along this route is Monthermé, a charming village sitting in a dramatic bend in the river. High above is the La Roche à Sept Heures and Roc de la Tour which offer stunning views over the surrounding countryside. Local legend is commemorated with a striking sculpture on the cliff opposite – it celebrates the tale of the Four Aymon Brothers, medieval knights who accidentally killed Charlemagne’s nephew.

Further downriver, the village of Haybes has a British related history. It was almost entirely destroyed by German troops during WW1 but thanks to money raised in the UK, the village was rebuilt with a new town hall and church. BAH, the Brasserie Ardennaise de Haybes, a local brewpub, makes a beer called Stockport, after the English town where the money was raised.

Heading north, Hierges is one of the most beautiful villages in the Ardennes overlooked by ruins of the stunning medieval castle. Not far away lies Givet, a fortified border town with a distinctive skyline marked by the 16^th century Fort de Charlemont.

It was built in 1554 at the request of Charles V to defend his empire and then perfected by Vauban. Over the centuries the fort was besieged by all the big players of Europe, but it never surrendered until the Germans arrived in WW1. Until recently it was the training area for France’s Special Forces, but they’ve now left and all is quiet.

Down in the town the market is in full swing and stalls are brimming with the recent asparagus crop. There’s a distinct Belgian presence as people regularly cross the border to do their shopping. My journey ends with lunch outside, overlooking the Meuse, eating the best of what today’s market has to offer.  It doesn’t disappoint but then that’s also the story of the French Ardennes

Tell Me More About The French Ardennes Revisited.

Eurostar runs from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord. Then it’s SNCF to Charleville-Mézières.

Ardennes Tourisme has information about the French Ardennes

Tourisme Vallées et Plateau d’Ardenne has information about the valleys.

Château fort de Sedan is open daily for tours.

Musée Guerre et Paix is open daily.

Logis Hôtel Saint Hubert in Haybes sits on the Meuse and has excellent local food.

Hôtel Le Château Fort**** is luxury hotel located inside the Sedan fortress and has a fine dining restaurant.

Hotel Le Dormeur du Val makes a good base in Charleville-Mezieres near the railway station.

Hôtel Restaurant La Hulotte au Lion D’Or in Signy-le-Petit is good for local specialities.

Restaurant Auberge de la Tour in Givet has good food.

Restaurant L’Echiquier in Sedan has excellent food.

Restaurant L’Antre Ducale is in the main square of Charleville-Mezieres and popular with locals.