Rupert Parker offers his insider guide to Aisne an incredible department in northern France and discovers imposing medieval cathedrals, art deco cities, a workers utopia and the best champagne.
I’m in Laon, Aisne’s capital, rising like a medieval crown over the surrounding plains. The city’s most iconic feature, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame is a Gothic masterpiece that predates the other Notre-Dame in Paris. Begun in the 12th century, this majestic cathedral is home to curious stone oxen that peer out from the towers – a nod to the animals that hauled the building materials uphill during its construction.
Climb to the top of one of its five towers for a high level view of the city and the surrounding area. Go the other way, deep into the ground, and explore Les Souterrains, a network of underground tunnels. Originally 5th century quarries they’ve been used for everything from storage to shelter during wars. Guided tours take you through three levels, including a 12th century prison and defensive casemates built under King Louis-Philippe in the 19th century.
Aisne is a region too often bypassed by travellers racing to the South. Yet, it’s well worth stopping off for a few days or even longer. It offers a rich tapestry of history, architecture, and distinctive local cuisine. The countryside rolls gently, dotted with small villages, historic abbeys, and memorials to the two World Wars.
This was WW1’s western front and three major battles were fought around the Chemin des Dames, a prominent east-west ridge, north east of Paris. Art Deco was a blueprint for the reconstruction of the cities and towns left devastated by the conflict. Inventive and colourful, the style is a testament to the capacity of residents to bounce back.
Saint-Quentin
50 kilometres north west of Laon lies Saint-Quentin, an Art Deco gem with over 3000 decorated facades. The Basilica, 133 m in length and crowned with an 82 m spire is Picardy’s second-largest religious structure after Amiens Cathedral. Constructed between the 12th and 15th centuries, it was severely damaged doing WW1 but has been meticulously restored.
Almost 70% of the city’s building were also destroyed but were rebuilt after the war in the Art Deco style. While the Town Hall has a flamboyant Gothic façade, inside the council chamber and wedding hall are distinctively Art Deco. The Rue de la Sellerie is a living gallery of Deco’s floral friezes, geometric ironwork, and bas-reliefs. The Buffet de la Gare, in the 1926 railway station, is a riot of gold and silver mosaics and floral motifs.
Soissons
60 kilometres south, Soissons is known as the first capital of France, where Clovis I succeeded in uniting the Frankish tribes in the 5th century. The city has two remarkable examples of religious architecture. The Cathedral of Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais dates from the 12th century and reflects the transition from Romanesque solidity to the soaring elegance of Gothic style. Large rose windows flood the interior with coloured light, changing with the movement of the sun.
Just a short walk away, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes was founded in the 11th century and its twin spires still dominate the skyline. Unfortunately it was dismantled during the French Revolution and is now in ruins. But its surviving portions, including the dramatic Gothic façade and cloister, still manage to evoke the spiritual and political power the monastic orders once held.
Guise
80 kilometres north east is the town of Guise where the Familistère de Guise stands as a testament to 19th century utopian vision. Conceived and built by stove manufacturer Jean Baptiste André Godin, it comprises three large residential blocks, with glazed inner courtyards. He also provided schools, swimming pool, grocery, crèche, even a theatre, all surrounded by lush gardens.
By the 1870s, nearly 1,000 workers and their households called the Familistère home. The cooperative enterprise thrived until the 1960’s when some of the flats became private and others were left derelict. In 1991 it was classified as an historic monument and today it’s a living museum. Comprehensive tours cover the residential blocks, Godin’s own apartment, theatre, laundry, and pool.
Champagne
Vineyards in the south of Aisne mark the beginning of the Champagne region, with small independent producers rubbing shoulders with their larger competitors. In Château-Thierry, the cellars of the Champagne Pannier sit in stone quarries dating back to the 12th century. As well as bottles and barrels, there’s a carving of an archer etched into the wall. It was only discovered in 1990 and is now the symbol of this prestigious brand.
Champagne Météyer, in nearby Trélou-Sur-Marne, has been in the same family for 6 generations since 1860. Franck Météyer and his wife Anna continue the tradition and she gives me a personal guided tasting in the cellar. Particularly impressive are their single grape champagnes: Blanc de Chardonnay, Blanc de Noirs and Blanc de Meunier.
If that isn’t enough, she grabs a favourite bottle and we set off on a tour of the vineyards in her vintage Citroën Dyane. It’s a bumpy ride, bouncing along the slopes, amongst rows of vines. We stop at her favourite spot and from the boot she produces two glasses and a basket of freshly picked cherries. All that remains is to pop the cork and watch her husband trimming the vines while we consume his famous bubbly.
Tell Me More About Insider Guide To Aisne in Northern France
Haute-de-France Tourisme has more information on this Guide to Aisne
Eurostar runs from London to Paris and then there’s a direct train to Laon.
The Hôtel du Golf de l’Ailette near Laon offers spacious rooms with lake views and tempting seasonal dishes in l’Albatros restaurant.
Brasserie Le Saint-Jean in Château-Thierry is excellent value for traditional brasserie cooking.
La Java is by the lake in Saint-Quentin and good for outdoor dining.
Champagne Pannier offers guided tours of their cellars with tastings.
Champagne Méteyer offers tastings and a tour of their vineyards in a vintage Dyane.
J’aime L’Aisne has information about the region.
Laon Tourisme has information about the city.
Saint-Quentism Tourisme has information about the city.
Soissons Tourisme has information about the city.
Maison du Tourisme Les Portes de la Champagne has information about Champagne.
Pays de Thiérache has information about the Guise region.
Familistère Godin in Guise has guided tours.
