Rupert Parker Walks And Bikes as he offers his guide to The Speyside Way.
I’m on the Caledonian Sleeper on an overnight from London Euston to Aviemore. My Club En-Suite Room is comfortable, there’s good food on board, and I even manage a decent night’s sleep before arriving at 7.30am in Kingussie. I hoist my rucksack on my back and start walking the Speyside Way.
This long distance route runs 137 km from Newtonmore, just beyond Aviemore in the Cairngorms, to Buckie on the coast. It’s one of the easiest of Britain’s long distance trails to walk and suitable for walkers of even modest abilities. High levels of fitness are not necessary and it follows the valley of the Spey – Scotland’s second longest river, and its most dynamic.
The route criss-crosses the Spey and its tributaries – waters famous for salmon fishing and malt whisky production. The river and its hinterland are a haven for wildlife and threatened species. Half of the trail is on disused railway tracks and river paths, with only around 700m of ascent. When it reaches the sea it runs east to end at Buckpool Harbour. I’m going on foot to Aviemore, then will take an e-bike to the coast.
Kingussie to Dalraddy 20km
After leaving Kingussie, I’m soon at Ruthen Barracks, built in 1721, to guard a crossing point of the River Spey. I enter the Insh Marshes National Nature Reserve and the trail undulates but is well marked. The path follows the River Tromie before crossing it and entering woodland. There are wonderful views across the moors to the snow slopes of the Cairngorms.
I’m soon at the shores of Loch Insh and follow the narrow northern edge before crossing the Spey to Kincraig village. There’s a pleasant café here, but I press on climbing steeply with panoramic views of the Spey and the Cairngorms. It’s then downhill to reach the railway line which I follow to Dalraddy Holiday Park and my comfortable chalet.
Dalraddy to Aviemore 6km
It’s an easy day today and I rejoin the railway line to follow the trail. On one side is the large Loch Alvie and on the other a wooded hill. At its summit is the distinctive Duke of Gordon’s monument but I carry, on crossing the railway, into the outskirts of Aviemore.
The arrival of the railway here in the late 1800’s led to its development as a Victorian mountain resort with huge hotels such as the Cairngorm springing up. Later, in the 1960’s, winter sports arrived, with ski slopes on nearby Cairn Gorm – at 1245m it’s the sixth-highest mountain in the British Isles. The town is bustling as I make my way past the station to the Balavoulin pub where I’ll be spending the night.
Aviemore to Aberlour 65km
Next day, I pick up my e-bike and follow the National Cycle Route 7 to the Boat of Garten. Most of it follows the Strathspey Railway although I don’t spot any steam trains. Out of the town, I enter the Abernethy Forest National Reserve which is the largest area of Caledonian pine forest remaining in the UK. There’s a huge diversity of wildlife here including Ospreys but I have no time to spare.
At Nethy Bridge, I cross the Spey and then follow the disused railway track. Anglers in waders are in the Spey casting for salmon although they don’t appear to be catching anything. I enter Anagach Woods, bypassing Grantown-on-Spey, following the trail to a crossing of the Spey near the village of Cromdale.
Here I take the road, as the next section is unsuitable for cyclists, all the way to Ballindalloch station. The Speyside Way now follows the disused railway track into the heart of whisky country. Distilleries now come thick and fast – Tamdhu then Knockando and Dalmunach before crossing the Spey and reaching the town of Aberlour. Tonight I’m in the lap of luxury at Dowans Hotel.
Aberlour to Buckie 37km
My final day starts by following the path along the River Spey for two miles to the village of Craigellachie. I then cross the river and take the road to Fochabers. Here I rejoin the trail, squeezed between the now enlarged Spey and the road. Warren Wood is a blaze of yellow gorse, then it’s Culraich Wood before arriving at the sea at Spey Bay.
At the Whale and Dolphin Conservation and Wildlife Centre I turn right, eastwards along the coast. The path winds its way through conifer woods and eventually reaches open country. I join another disused railway line to reach the port of Postgordon.
It’s then a mixture of coastal path and road to Buckie and the end of the trail at Buckpool Harbour. I’m slightly disappointed to discover that in the 1970’s it was filled in and now it’s a park. A sign tells me that it’s 55 miles back to Aviemore and this is the official end of the Speyside Way. I nip into the pub and devour a Sunday roast, waiting for my Highland Yaks transport back to Aviemore.
I have one more night in a heated pod in Badaguish placed in a woodland clearing of Glenmore Forest. There’s good food here at the Penny Bun and I slip into my sleeping bag, nicely content. The Speyside Way is one of the easiest long distance paths I’ve followed, with weather the only challenge. Yet, count me lucky, I’ve managed the entire distance without a single drop of rain.
Tell Me More About Insider Guide To The Speyside Way in the Scottish Highlands
The Caledonian Sleeper goes from London Euston to Kingussie overnight.
Element Bike Hire has great E-bikes.
Highland Yaks can transport E-bikes, baggage and also arrange tours in the Cairngorms.
Cicerone’s The Speyside Way is an indispensable guide.
Visit Cairngorms has information about the region.
Chalet 33 in Dalraddy Holiday Park provides all comforts with Coyote Cookhouse and Nana’s Thai Kitchen offering good food.
The Balavoulin makes a comfortable base in the centre of Aviemore and has excellent pub grub.
Dowans Hotel in Aberlour is a luxury country house hotel with fine dining.
Badaguish is in the countryside in a quiet location just outside Aviemore with The Penny Bun offering creative local produce.
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