Stephen Kelly reviews Merceri, a new stylish restaurant in the equally stylish Thiseio neighbourhood of Athens.
Greek cuisine doesn’t have the best of reputations. Go to most Greek tavernas in the UK and the menu will be pretty similar – taramosalata, kebabs, moussaka, stifado and so forth. And in most tourist resorts on the Greek islands it’s much the same, even down to blue and white interiors with Greek pottery and fishing nets adorning the walls. It’s a generalisation, of course, but thankfully a new breed of restaurants is breaking the trend by trying to introduce fresh culinary tastes, with a hint of international flavours.
Zen Like Atmosphere
And one of those is Merceri, a delightfully stylish restaurant, in the quiet, residential area of Thiseio, a short stroll from the main shopping parade. It should perhaps come as no surprise that in a capital city you’re going to find such gems but in Athens you have to search diligently.
The restaurant is inspired by its two female chefs, Melina Chomata and Maria Dioudi. Following many years working of in hotels in Santorini, they decided, in the summer of 2021, to create this contemporary bistro with modern food to accompany. Two years later it was recognised by the Michelin Bib Guide and was still there in 2024. Not bad going.
No sea blue walls and fishing nets here. Thanks heavens! Instead, elegant Japanese style surrounds, warm sophisticated colours, subdued lighting, tastefully placed plants, wooden parquet floors, artwork on the walls and Villeroy and Boch china on the table; a feel that is more Japan meets Ercol than Greece meets the sea.
The zen-like atmosphere continues behind the open kitchen where the two chefs and co-owners work assiduously without screaming at each other. It’s calm, relaxed and very Japanese.
There are covers for about 30 diners with at least another half dozen tables outside. The wine list is substantial, especially promoting Greek wines including the Greek Islands, Peloponnese and central Greece as well as Europe and the New World across a range of prices, with an equally interesting choice of wine by the glass.
My wife started with a glass of sparkling Greek rose, a Theopetra Estate Xinomavro from the Meteora region, whilst I had a sparkling Italian white, a Bellavista from the Franciacorta area. The provenance and characteristics of each wine were carefully explained to us by our clearly knowledgeable – and bilingual – host.
Small But Precise Food Menu.
The food menu is small but then, in my experience, the larger the menu, the poorer the food. There are basically two menus. The degustation menu at €70 which offers seven dishes that includes lobster, steak, John Dory, tuna and crayfish. And there is a Greek wine pairing to go with it at €48.
The other menu is the ‘a la carte’ which we opted for. The menu is divided into three sections – Raw, Appetizers and Main. There’s a choice of 16 dishes in all. We skipped the raw selection and began with two appetizers which, naturally, they encourage you to share. First up was a generous helping of scallops cooked in a butternut squash sauce with coffee, tonka and shaved almonds.
I’ve always believed that scallops need to be accompanied by a delicate sauce, nothing too heavy or with too many rich flavours that will overwhelm the scallops. The delicate and slightly sweet taste of the squash underscored by the smoky hint of coffee and the nutty hints of tonka complemented the perfectly cooked scallops.
Our other starter was a tart of French goat’s cheese, a Sainte Maure chevre from the Loire region, on a bed of duck confit and caramelized onions, topped with fresh cranberries. Full of rich flavours tamed by the tanginess of the fruit. As a bonus there are home-baked bread rolls for mopping up those mouth-watering sauces.
For the main course my wife opted for the John Dory (sometimes known as St Peter’s fish), a fish you don’t see too often on English menus. It came cooked with fennel, served in two ways as a puree and steamed, and a light sauce of saffron and oil. Again, a sauce that allowed the flavours of the fish to take precedence.
I decided on the Paccherini which was blue, yes blue, cylindrical pasta, shrimps, black pork pancetta, orange, bergamo, and trout eggs. Intrigued by the striking colour of my pasta I was fascinated to discover that the blue tone derives from spirulina power, a blue-green algae, reported to be a superfood. The combination of flavours were certainly memorable!
I accompanied it with a fruity Provence rose from the Domaines Ott, perfect for relaxed meals whilst my wife opted for a Peloponnese white from the Semeli Estate, a wine known for its elegant aroma and intense colour.
Traditional Comfort Food Dessert.
And then, for dessert, from a choice of three, we opted for Ravani; a dessert of filo pastry with semolina, grated orange peel and soaked in syrup. Our host explained that this was the restaurant’s modern twist on what would be a traditional comfort food in Greek kitchens. Usually heartier than sponge cake, this was a delicate confection of semolina cooked to resemble a light custard. Simply glorious!
The combination of memorable flavours and impeccable service was a feasting adventure in sophisticated surrounds that will linger in the memory for some time.
No Demis Roussous Here.
And while you can’t see the Acropolis from this restaurant, you can be assured that neither do they smash plates or play Demis Roussous in the background. But then as we strolled back towards the Plaka district, past rows of tavernas with the Acropolis lit up on the skyline, we were suddenly back to normal with the sound of Zorba’s dance.
Our four dishes and dessert cost €114 with the four glasses of wine at €47, making a total bill of €161.
All images (C) Stephen Kelly
Tell Me More About Merecri
Merceri, Iraklidon 21, Thiseio, Athens 11851.
Opening hours: 18.00-midnight, all days. Closed Tuesday.
Reservations recommended.
T:+302103417511 E:info@merceri.gr
The Degustation menu is €70 without the wine pairing. Wine pairing is €48 for wine from Greek vineyard and €68 for wine from premium Greek vineyard. A la carte appetisers range from €18 to €26 and main courses from €24 to €42.
