Beverley Watts stays at Moorleaze. An eco-aware cottage retreat in rural England, and finds it definitely the way to recalibrate your life and chill out.
The small village of Witham Friary in Somerset is surrounded by fertile countryside, with narrow hedged lanes winding through undulating fields to the historic market towns of Frome and Bruton. It’s the perfect place to escape the madness of the metropolitan grind and relax into the quiet rhythm of very lazy days. A short break in pastoral tranquillity (no airports, no hassle, no luggage restrictions) certainly feels as if it lowers the blood pressure.
Driving from London, we pass Stonehenge beside the A303 on our way to Moorleaze, a secluded cluster of stylish and eco-conscious self-catering cottages, two miles south-west of the Wiltshire border. Owners Tim and Esther Reynolds have preserved the former dairy farm’s historic stone buildings, installed solar panels, supplied an on-site EV charging point and stocked the cottages with biodegradable cleaning products.
Moorleaze is set in 40 acres of land – much of it wooded – and it’s ideal for a casual ramble. Tiny Muntjac deer hide in the thick bushes, there’s an ancient 500-year-old oak tree to admire and at dusk you may well spot a brown hare foraging, or a barn owl on the hunt. Half of the 10 Moorleaze cottages, grouped around a courtyard, welcome well-behaved dogs and the small lake within the grounds is a terrific place for a canine pal to cool off on a hot day’s walk.
For we humans, there’s an indoor 16-metre swimming pool, heated to 30°C, and also a sauna. Each cottage has exclusive pool use for an hour a day plus 9am and 6pm it’s open to everyone. After a wander in the woods, a leisurely self-catered lunch (we arrived with a cold bag of basic provisions) and a dip, Witham Friary’s traditional pub, the Seymour Arms, is a 15-minute stroll on foot.
Drinking In The Past
This is no ordinary tavern. There’s no bar counter and, just behind off the flagstone entrance, you order your hoppy Cheddar Ales Potholder beer or local cider (nothing like an excessively fizzy commercial brand) through a glass-panelled hatch. Built in 1866, the Grade II listed establishment was once a small hotel for railway travellers and its original features have been preserved. Resisting modernity and anonymity, there’s even a jar of pickled eggs on offer to go with your pint and it’s a nostalgic 19th century experience. CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) calls the Seymour Arms ‘a hidden rural gem’.
The chapel of a former Carthusian monastery, demolished by Henry VIII, became Witham Friary’s Church of St Mary, with the oldest sections dating from 1200, but rebuilt over centuries and now supported by four huge flying ‘Muscular Gothic’ buttresses added in 1875. The original religious community lived an austere life of contemplation and the medieval fishponds, dug by the pescatarian monks, still survive. Today, the atmosphere remains muted and contemplative – the only sound you can hear is cows mooing.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Somerset’s fast-flowing streams and rivers powered waterwheels for a network of wool and silk mills. Raw silk was imported from Asia to be made into thread and Witham Friary was part of a silk-spinning hub. Silk Mill Studios & Gallery in Frome has transformed an abandoned textile mill into a bright venue which now accommodates an event space and 22 artists’ studios creating jewellery, ceramics and more (visits by appointment).
To fully unwind, there’s actually no need to leave the privacy of Moorleaze. On site you’ll find a tennis court and games room with a pool table, table football and table tennis. There’s an outdoor playground and football field with goal posts, plus other facilities. For days out, choose from multiple options and experiences.
Out And About From Witham Friary
Witham Friary is within easy reach of the spa town of Bath, just 45 minutes by car. The Romans built a bathing temple to enclose the hot springs in 70 AD and mined lead and silver in the Mendip Hills. Just east of Witham Friary, an important Roman road was discovered and in April 2010, the Frome Hoard, a stash of 52,503 silver and bronze Roman coins were unearthed locally, hidden in an earthenware stone jar. These are now on display at the Museum of Somerset in Taunton.
Thermae Bath Spa, Britain’s only natural thermal spa, is a sensory experience and Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with elegant 18th-century Georgian architecture. Jane Austen was a visitor to the neo-classical Pump Room, sipping the mineral waters and getting inspiration for her novels. Follow in her footsteps and taste the slightly sulphuric stream that continues to gush freely from the King’s Spring fountain.
The town of Glastonbury is a significant spot for those with an interest in New Age spirituality. The theory of ley lines, connecting ancient sites, emerged in the 1920s and the idea grew into a belief that leys were mystical conduits to guide alien spaceships. Glastonbury Tor, a conical peak of Jurassic sandstone, is considered an energy vortex, a nub for planetary healing and higher human consciousness. Whatever your thoughts on earth energies, the 158-metre hill, topped by the 14th century St Michael’s Tower, has sensational views and is free to climb.
The caves at Cheddar Gorge are magnificent and, for fans of the film Barry Lyndon, Stourhead is conveniently close to Moorleaze. This picturesque estate, now run by the National Trust, was used for location filming by Stanley Kubrick for his celluloid masterpiece. Stourhead’s 18th-century landscaped gardens were designed as a living work of art, recreating classical scenes with temples, a grotto and Palladian bridge.
Where And What To Eat
During our stay we enjoy two evening meals out. The busy Full Moon Inn at Rudge has a lively pub atmosphere and the pork ribeye with gooseberry, burnt leek, pancetta croquette and Kicking Goat (craft cider) sauce is delicious. At The Chapel in Bruton has a totally different ambience, housed in a high-ceilinged former chapel, it’s a laidback venue to try a crispy wood-fired sour dough pizza topped with wild mushrooms and truffle.
For dining in, Tim and Esther have compiled a very helpful list of local eateries and stores who’ll deliver and there is a selection of farm shops in easy reach. White Row Farm in Beckington stocks Marshfield Farm Ice Cream, with exciting Black Vanilla, Salted Pistachio and Caramelised Biscuit flavours, plus artisanal honey, with a gentle floral aroma and taste. Family-run Batcombe Milk Station, 10 minutes’ drive away, has a vending machine dispensing fresh, pasteurised milk from the farm’s own cows, alongside cheese, yoghurt and eggs.
On our last night, we cook for ourselves in our well-equipped open-plan kitchen and sit with a chilled glass of wine on Moorleaze’s scenic deck with a view. Peace, simple peace.
Cottage and countryside images (C) Bev Watts.Swimming Poll Image (C) Dave Watts.Royal Crescent image (C) Visit Bath.
Tell Me More About Moorleaze Cosy Cottages.
Moorleaze Farm, Witham Friary, Frome, Somerset BA11 5HH
T: 07770 678283 E: info@moorleaze.co.uk
Moorleaze is a collection of 10 self-catering cottages found just beyond the edge of Cranbourne Chase National Landscape, outside the small Somerset village of Witham Friary. Select properties are dog-friendly and each has daily access to a private swim slot in the luxurious 16m indoor pool.
Off peak, four-night breaks (Monday-Friday) start from £645 for a two-bed cottage, from £895 for a three-bed cottage, and from £1,795 for a five-bed property. Direct bookings offer the best value and for much of the year, a mix of midweek and weekend short breaks are available alongside longer stays in peak season.
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