Lynne Coates reviews Viking’s Rhine Getaway River Cruise aboard Viking Idun
‘Caught you’ exclaims Maja, our charismatic programme director, as we attempt to sneak off to bed. ‘You must join the music quiz tonight’ she insists. Now quizzes are not my thing at all, but I have to confess we have the best fun. The ‘70’s themed quiz tests our memories, also our dancing skills (who doesn’t enjoy a bit of a boogie to Motown and Abba!).
Assisted by several rounds of cheeky shots served up by our mischievous barmen it certainly produces some unexpected movers and groovers in the lounge that night! We don’t win the quiz, by the way, but are glad we stayed. You don’t always need a schedule of shows to keep you entertained, just a great crew and a happy group of travellers – and our Rhine Getaway river cruise on Viking Idun, had oodles of both.
Basel
Landing in Basel, we are met by the Viking team who transfer us to Viking Idun. After a warm welcome from the crew, we check in and are quickly settled into our luxury stateroom. The Scandi-influenced décor on the Viking ships – soft pastel colours, pale woodwork, and Nordic art – creates that warm hygge ambiance, making it so easy to adapt to our temporary floating home.
After a buffet lunch we set off for a guided walking tour. Straddling the Rhine, Basel is located where the Swiss, German and French borders meet. Our guide explains that the official language is ‘Romanch’, a blend of German, Italian and French, though most speak what’s known as Swiss German. Architecturally, Basel has it all; Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings juxtaposed with contemporary new museums. On Gerbergässlein a giant mural depicting many of the world’s top rock stars, is a ‘must see’. Hosting Eurovision 2025, Basel is justly proud of its reputation as a great cultural city.
Food is undoubtedly an important feature on all cruises. Whilst river cruises may not offer umpteen restaurants, the quality of food on Viking is exceptionally good. Our executive chef, Peter, has great culinary skills, creating innovative daily menus with a nod to whichever country we are in. There are two dining options on board, the main restaurant and Aquavit Terrace for casual dining, both offering the same menu. For our first night on board, we choose Aquavit and enjoy the ‘chefs special’, rosti, a Swiss speciality.
Sailing through the night we wake up in Breisach, Germany, located across the river from Alsace. Viking offer daily included and optional tours, and we take the ‘Black Forest Experience’. A spectacular panoramic drive takes us up winding mountain roads through dramatic forest landscapes, passing by picturesque villages and vineyards.
Our guide tells us about the hardships endured by farming families during the winter when the area is virtually inaccessible. Arriving at the village of Hofgut Sternen, famous for its handmade wooden cuckoo clocks, I manage to resist the temptation to bring one home. However, in the café I am unable to resist a huge slice of Black Forest Gateau while enjoying a demonstration of how this famous cake is made, with cherries steeped in Kirsch and mountains of whipped cream which, we are assured, is sugar free!
Strasbourg
Our next destination is the beautiful city of Strasbourg, home to the EU and the Council of Europe. Its unique mix of French and German influences makes Strasbourg one of the most fascinating cities. We wander through the charming and picturesque ‘Petite France’ district with its half-timbered houses, canals and flowering chestnut trees, part of Strasbourg’s Grand Île UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s impossible not to be impressed by the magnificent Notre-Dame Cathedral, with its gigantic spire.
Strasbourg is known for its gastronomy and we visit one of the winstubs (a small traditional bistro) to try the local flambé, an ultra-thin dough base covered in a variety of cheeses and toppings, filling but delicious. Strasbourg deserves more than a day and we put it on our ‘revisit’ list. Back on board, there is a demonstration of how to make Rüdesheim coffee, a flambéed concoction of coffee, brandy, sugar, whipped cream and dark chocolate – happy hour follows!
Speyer
River cruises allow you to visit lesser-known places, and this is particularly true of the German towns that border the Rhine. We visit the quiet town of Speyer on the west bank of the river. Our knowledgeable guide takes us on a stroll through the town’s historical areas. A grand Romanesque cathedral, with its red-sandstone exterior, dominates the town’s skyline. Speyer was once home to a thriving Jewish community, which had survived many pogroms, but almost all of whom were murdered during the Holocaust.
However, in 1996 there was a resurgence of Jewish life when some families returned to the area. Astonishingly, the ruins of an ancient synagogue from II04 remain, (now being restored) together with Germany’s oldest (c II26) Mikva, (a 33-foot-deep ritual bath). The story of the community is told in the nearby museum called ‘SchPIRA’. Also known as the ‘pretzel town’ (spelt Bretzel in German), Speyer holds an annual beer festival, where 22,000 pretzels are distributed among the crowds – a pretzel is the town’s symbol!
Middle Rhine
One of the joys of river cruising is sailing through ever-changing landscapes, and the sun-deck is my favourite place to take a coffee and enjoy the passing scenery. We spend a morning cruising the Middle Rhine, where steep hillsides are peppered with a myriad of Medieval castles. Along the route, Maja regales us with tales of feuds, and romance. Middle Rhine is a vast wine-producing area, most famous for its German Rieslings.
The Rhine converges with the Moselle at a point known as ‘German Corner’, in the city of Koblenz. We dock opposite one of Europe’s largest fortresses, Ehrenbreitstein, looming 400 feet above the river. Now a museum and multimedia centre, visitors can take a cable car to the top. In the evening a talented string quartet comes on board to entertain us with an eclectic selection of classical and contemporary music – a perfect end to a perfect day!
Cologne and The Netherlands
Cologne, the next city on our journey, is an intriguing mix of old and new with modern plazas, pedestrianised shopping zones and traditional ‘brewpubs’. Many of its buildings were destroyed during World War II but, remarkably, the city’s Gothic 14th Century Cathedral survived. ‘Eau de Cologne’ perfume was named in honour of the city where it was invented by the Italian perfumer Giovanni Farina. Cologne is a great city for shopping, with many European brands and German fashion stores.
Finally, we arrive in the Netherlands. Docking in Kinderdijk, a UNESCO World Heritage site in South Holland, famous for its 18th-century windmills, we take a guided walk by the side of the canals, bordered by tall reeds and golden flowers, to see the inside of a working windmill. Our guide explains how they were used, and lived in, often by large families. A lovely, relaxing last afternoon, before Idun departs for our final port of Amsterdam. We have traversed four countries, learnt about castles, kings and feuds, cuckoo clocks and cultural towns.
We have eaten our way through delicious meals, (we will never forget chef’s legendary carrot cake), enjoyed cocktails and champagne, and slept like children. A spectacular sunset throws its hues over the river as we drink a toast to Viking’s exceptional crew. Headed by Captain Christoph Rohn, they ensured our cruise went as smoothly as the mighty Rhine flowed.
All photos (C) Lynne Coates
Tell me more about Viking’s Rhine Getaway River Cruise:
Viking Rhine Getaway River Cruise Itinerary includes stops in: Basel, Breisach, Strasbourg, Speyer, Koblenz, Cologne, Kinderdijk, Amsterdam. 8 days/7 nights, 6 guided tours included. Return flights from select UK airports, a 7-night voyage in a Standard stateroom, in-destination transfers, all on board meals including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner (plus no corkage fee), included excursion in each port of call, Wi-Fi (connection speed may vary), gratuities, evening entertainment and enrichment talks.
Prices start from £1,895 p.p. for a 13-20 November 2025 sailing, based on current availability. To make a booking please call 0800 319 66 60.or visit Viking Cruises
