Andy Mossack visits Royal Museums Greenwich and rediscovers a hat trick of wonders at The Royal Observatory, the Maritime Museum and Cutty Sark.
It’s a rare thing to be able to visit three extraordinary London historical sights within a short walking distance, but at Greenwich down by the Thames in southeast London you most certainly can. And, as a bonus, two of them are inside the delightful Greenwich Park, a wonderful green space that’s been a joy to Londoners ever since the early Romans were here.
I was last here as a young boy and still have lasting memories from that visit, so why not share that love and pass it down the generations? As it was Easter holidays, I took my two youngest grandchildren on a day out to Greenwich to see if the magic was still there.
The Centre of World Time at the Royal Observatory.
Standing proudly atop a hill in the centre of Greenwich Park is the historic Royal Observatory, another Christopher Wren masterpiece celebrating its 350th birthday this year. It’s the official centre of World Time and where the Prime Meridian Line dissects the World’s two hemispheres.
There has been an Astronomer Royal in Britain ever since King Charles II appointed John Flamsteed to the job in 1720 (Currently, Lord Martin Rees is the 15th Astronomer Royal). This is a prestige posting and a job for life, which back then included sumptuous living quarters right here at John Flamsteed House up until 1947 when the observatory moved to Herstmonceux in Sussex.
Flamsteed’s unique position allowed him the luxury of unlimited astronomical experiments and theories about our solar system and how time changes around the globe despite lacking the telescopic tech we enjoy today. His achievements and those of his successors led to extraordinary advances in nautical navigation and ultimately to work out Longitude and World Time.
The large red time ball on the roof of Flamsteed House is the first sign something special occurs here. It drops at 1pm precisely every day and has done so since 1833 when ships on the Thames watched for it to adjust their clocks. We stood watching it drop from our picnic spot in the park. During our Observatory tour later, I found out it was where the phrase “keep your eyes on the ball” came from!
There’s plenty to see and hear on the Royal Observatory tour. The plush living quarters, a wander around the four remarkable prototypes of John Harrison’s first stab at marine clocks, examples of huge early mechanical telescopes, and an unforgettable climb up into the dome to gaze at the last space telescope before the observatory was moved. Of course, standing on the actual Prime Meridian Line was great fun for the kids. Standing with one foot on each hemisphere provided plenty of Kodak moments.
The National Maritime Museum
Originally a palace and the birthplaces of Tudor monarchs Henry VIII, Mary I, and Elizabeth I, this building was a naval hospital for retired seamen for centuries until 1878 when it became the Old Royal Navy College. The National Maritime Museum took it over in 1938 and ever since it has been a centre chronicling Britain’s maritime history.
The galleries are free to enter, and I remember finding the Lord Nelson exhibits fascinating (including the jacket he was wearing when he was fatally wounded). I made a point of revisiting them for old times sake. Still very absorbing. Lots of fun things for the kids to do too. Playing around with Morse code was a hit, the Astronomy Photographer of the Year images were spectacular, and just strolling around the numerous World Galleries gazing at the impressive maritime artefacts kept the kids’ interest.
And for younger ones, The Cove sea-themed outdoor playground had plenty of things to climb and clamber over.
A new pay to enter Pirate’s exhibition has just launched chronicling everything pirating from Treasure Island to Jack Sparrow and how real-life pirates lived and were perceived. It was certainly a lot more complex than just swashbuckling treasure hunting that’s for sure.
Cutty Sark. An historic globetrotting speedy Victorian Clipper
Cutty Sark was deemed at one time to be the fasted ship in the world. This Victorian-era sailing ship broke speed records for fun transporting wool back to England. But it was originally built as a tea clipper to ferry tea from Shanghai. It was the Suez Canal opening that proved its undoing in the tea trade cutting the journey distance to China by 3,000 miles. Unfortunately for Cutty Sark the challenging wind conditions through the canal proved perilous for sailing ships plus expensive toll fees made it an unprofitable trading route.
So in 1883 it turned to the Australian wool trade where its speed in delivering wool 25 days before anyone else, made it the hottest property around. Until seven years later it wasn’t. Steam ships became the desired form of transport and Cutty Sark’s star status faded rapidly. After numerous changes of ownership and names, it ultimately retired to be a naval cadet training ship until the end of WW2.
Fortunately for the ship, Frank Carr who was the Director of the National Maritime Museum heard of its poor health state and formed the Cutty Sark Preservation Society with the support of the Duke of Edinburgh. Funds were raised for its restoration and transport to its new home in Greenwich dry dock where it remains today.
I was really keen to see the ship once again particularly following the devastating fire in 2007 which ripped through all three decks. Cutty Sark seems to have had more lives than a cat managing to survive each calamity and then come back stronger. She looked magnificent. A quite extraordinary renovation had her reopen in 2012 and she is looking pristine once again.
We toured all three decks taking in her historical journey from tea trading to her final days running cargo to and from Portugal. From the dizzy heights of her main mast and complex main deck rigging, to the old tea chests in the lower hold way below deck. After the tour we went underneath her copper plated hull to see her seemingly suspended in mid-air. The kids learned ropemaking and explored a collection of real ship figureheads, while we enjoyed a cup of tea with Cutty Sark suspended above our heads just within touching distance.
A great family day out the Royal Museums Greenwich came to a close with two very tired but thoroughly excited grandkids who chatted about their adventures all the way home.
All images (C) National Maritime Museum, Greenwich.
Tell me more about a day out at the Royal Museums Greenwich
Royal Museums Greenwich Romney Rd, London SE10 9NF
T: 0044 20 8312 6608 E: bookings@rmg.co.uk
Bookings office is open 9am-5pm, Monday-Sunday.
Entry Fees Royal Observatory Greenwich: Adult: £24 Child: £12 Student: £18 Under 4s free
Cutty Sark: Adult: £22 Child: £11 Student: £16.50 Under 4s free
Day pass for Royal Observatory Greenwich and Cutty Sark Adult: £38 Child: £19 Student: £28.50
Pirates: Adult: £15 Child: £7.50 Student: £11.25
Entry to the National Maritime Museum and Queen’s House is free.
More about Greenwich – 111 Places in Greenwich that You Shouldn’t Miss by Solange Berchemin and Martin Dunford
