Andy Mossack goes hunting gems in hidden Palma and uncovers a few surprises.
Mallorca has been much maligned over the years for its sheer volume of tourist traffic. Perhaps nowhere more so than its capital Palma. A magnet for cruise ships, private yachts, bikers, golfers and holidaymakers, her old town’s cobbled streets offer well-trodden paths for sightseers. La Seu Cathedral, Bellver Castle, the Royal Palace of La Almudaina and the Arab Baths are the obvious treadmill favourites.
But there are parts of Palma where more than few glorious gems are passed by without a second glance. Unless of course, you’re forewarned, which is exactly what I’m about to do. Here then, with the help and assistance from Raquel Muñoz my excellent local guide, is my hidden Palma, treasures tucked away off the tourist treadmill.
Giant Mannequins and Crocs.
The city town hall on Plaça de Cort is a good place to start. A former courthouse but now home to some very special giant festival folklore mannequins. Well over 4 metres tall, you’ll find six Gegants de Cort hanging out in the foyer. The two guarding the stairs, Tofol and Francinaina, are practically royalty in Palma. They were made in 1961 and were the first gegants to wear traditional costumes depicting everyday islanders.
Nowadays they enjoy their retirement guarding the stairs and are not used in festivals anymore. However, the farming couple on the right of the big group are Margalida and Tomeu. They’re joined by a couple of musicians – a flutist/drummer and a bagpiper. Weighing over 50 kilos each they are literally carried along on the shoulders of strong members of the procession. If you look closely between Tofol’s baggy trousers you just might spot a square viewing box used by the carrier so he can see where he’s walking!
The four smaller mannequins are a dog and cat, deemed as lucky mascots and the devils provide protection for villagers. You’ll find this motley bunch taking part in numerous festival parades throughout the year.
There’s also one more creature on the left side of the foyer. Why would a crocodile be here? There’s a 17th century Palma fable about a fearsome dragon who ate stray children in the town after dark. Cue battle veteran Captain Coch who had ridden to Palma to wed his fiancé, Na Coca. He encountered the dragon, slayed it and brought it to his beloved as a wedding gift. The dragon turned out to be a crocodile that had slipped onto the island from a passing ship and lived in the town’s sewer system. But why let the truth get in the way of a good tale.
As you leave the town hall look out for the extraordinarily gnarled olive tree in the square. It’s reputed to be over 600 years old and still offers up olives every season.
Gaudi in Palma?
Have a stroll along Plaça del Marquès del Palmer (just off Plaça Major) and you’ll encounter an extraordinary building which, built in early 20th century, was clearly influenced by Gaudi. There are also a few others around the old town that make no secret of Gaudi’s genius, but this one, Can Forteza Rey, is an exceptional example. It was the five-storey home of wealthy merchant Lluis Forteza Ray.
The number of extravagant mosaics, symbols and patterns adorning the exterior is hugely impressive. So too is the dental clinic sign above the second storey because back then signs for businesses on Mallorca were not a thing, and Forteza Ray, clearly something of a visionary, started the trend and made his son in law’s dental clinic a huge success.
The building next door, not to be outdone by its neighbour, was Palma’s first department store, Almacenes el Águila, and the owners tried their hardest to be just as eye-catching using an art deco design. Today it is an upscale boutique hotel.
Gastronomy anyone?
Who can resist delicious local fare and tempting snacks? An absolutely brilliant find is Cellet sa Premsa which has been a local hangout for decades. Set inside an old wine cellar in Plaça Obispo Berenguer de Palou, this cavernous rustic resto literally oozes character, offering probably the best value lunch in Palma. 3 courses for €18.95 including a glass of wine. All of it fresh traditional fare.
Il Tanno Pizza in Santa Catalina. Currently Palma’s hottest neighbourhood, this is well worth a visit. Not only do they make delicious organic pizzas, but they also offer a charcoal base option (never heard of that before) and a special tennis racquet shape pizza to honour Mallorca’s famous son Raffa Nadal.
If you want to taste proper sobrassada and find out what all the fuss is about, visit Mallorca Delicatessen Mateu Pons in Plaça del Marquès del Palmer. Mallorca’s famous pork based paprika salami is used in everything from stock to spreading on toast and this shop is literally stacked with it.
A quite different experience awaits at Forn des Teatro an old town favourite at Plaza de Weyler. This turn-of-the-century bread and pastry shop run by Tomeu and Mª José is like a scene from a Dickens novel. Still making delicious traditional handmade cakes and pastries with care, their ensaimadas and gatós in particular. They call it gastronomic archaeology. It also serves tapas in the evenings.
Hidden Perfumery
Literally hidden away in Calle de Saint Gaieta 6 (just a small doorway) is Arquinesia Perfumes 100% handmade Mallorquin organic perfumes lovingly created by owners Urs and Romana. Go through the small door and you’ll find yourself in an ancient house full of curious objects. This is a magical mystery tour eventually leading to the perfume shop at its heart. A true scented adventure.
Free Museums and Galleries.
Throughout old town Palma, huge wooden doors hide many intriguing treasures – many of them turning out to be beautiful courtyards containing galleries or museums. One excellent example is Can Balaguer at Calle de la Unió 3, one of Palma’s best-preserved and free to enter courtyards. This was once a famous nobleman and musician’s home, so go up the stairs and take a trip back to the 17th century. Everything inside is original furniture including a very impressive grand piano. Make sure you check out the doors, some of them are set at a strange angle.
I was told it was to make sure they stayed open. I’m not convinced. For art lovers there’s also an exhibition of impressionist paintings by Antoni Gelabert.
All around this area you’ll find a warren of free to enter art galleries tucked away wherever you look so just take a wander around.
Stroll to Portixol
If you fancy a short stroll out of Palma take a 45 minute walk along the seafront promenade to Portixol a charming former fishing village that still retains an old world charm about it. There are many bars and restaurants around the small port but also a few old school bars that are a delight to try like Bar Molinar for example.
All images (C) Andy Mossack
Tell me more about Hidden Palma
You can get more information on hidden Palma by visiting the Visit Palma site or Iles Balears
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