Sarah Kingdom Visits Saudade Mozambique And Discovers A Quietly Luxurious Escape Where Design Meets Soul.
Part design haven and part barefoot escape, Saudade, a quiet luxury retreat on Mozambique’s Bazaruto coast, offers more than just ocean views.
I didn’t realise I’d been craving something like Saudade until I arrived. The villa’s quiet elegance and its sweeping views over the Indian Ocean shifted something in me. Saudade isn’t just a place, it’s an experience, a reset, a deep exhale.
Saudade is a Portuguese word with no direct English translation. It refers to a melancholic longing or yearning. In fact, saudade is more than just a word; it’s simultaneously a feeling, a way of living, a longing, a sense of nostalgia, and a sense of belonging. And that’s exactly what I discovered during my days at Saudade, a luxury villa in Vilanculos, Mozambique.
Saudade is the vision of Sarah and Mike von Hone, who’ve spent two decades holidaying in their neighbouring property, Villa Coco. With Saudade, they’ve combined their passion for luxury hospitality with a deep connection to this part of Mozambique, and the resulting villa is a masterpiece of design and comfort. Perched above the Vilanculos coastline, overlooking the ever-changing turquoise blues of the Bazaruto Archipelago, the house is open and organic, designed to draw you outside and then pull you back in.
Every part of the villa has been designed to dissolve the boundaries between indoors and outdoors. The architecture leans into open living: high thatched ceilings, expansive decks, and louvered shutters that let in the breeze and the ever-present birdsong. Spaces flow effortlessly from shaded lounges to sunlit terraces, from a marvelous, covered patio to the palm-framed infinity pool. The style is understated but thoughtful, a unique aesthetic that honours traditional Mozambican elements while embracing contemporary design. Neutral tones reflect the sandy coastline, with organic textures—woven baskets, stone, and hand-carved woodwork, creating a mood of effortless sophistication. It’s not flashy, it’s considered, and there’s an art to that.
Set in a tropical garden, overlooking a magnificent white crescent beach, Saudade can comfortably accommodate up to 16 guests, in six individual suites, without ever feeling crowded. Each of the spacious suites feels like its own private world, including the charming family room, perfect for families with younger children. The architecture effortlessly blends traditional elements, like fabulously thatched roofs, with modern amenities, like air-conditioning and high-quality bedding and linens, creating a harmonious balance between rustic charm and contemporary luxury.
Everything at Saudade encourages connection, whether it’s shared meals at the long wooden table, lazy hours on the pool deck, or cocktails in the lounge area. There’s Wi-Fi, sure, but you’ll forget to check your phone; there’s just too much real beauty to distract you.
One of the villa’s secret weapons is its kitchen, and the people who work their magic inside it. Meals are made from scratch, with fresh-caught seafood and ingredients sourced locally wherever possible. Calamari, prawns, blue swimmer crab, fabulous fish; everything on the menu celebrates local flavours, while alfresco dining, with the ocean’s gentle breeze and panoramic views, makes each meal memorable. Meals at Saudade are luxurious without being showy – just incredibly well done.
The rhythm at Saudade is gentle, and the days take on a lovely elasticity. Morning begins with the scent of coffee and the sound of the waves. Then, it’s time for you to decide. Maybe it’s a walk along the beach at low tide, when the water pulls back to reveal intricate patterns in the sand. Perhaps it’s a boat ride out to Magaruque Island, where the dunes shimmer white against the turquoise sea – the villa team arranged a boat ride and picnic for us, complete with chilled wine and delicious food, served under a billowing tent – it was unreal.
One day we went searching for seahorses, those elusive, otherworldly creatures that most people never see in the wild. It was the most magical of mornings. Beginning with a boat ride through the calm, shallow waters just south of town.
We slipped over the side of the boat and into the water. The tide was just right, low enough to expose the seagrass beds where the seahorses cling, with their delicate, coiled tails. Ilídio, our guide, moved slowly, sweeping gently through the grasses with his fingers, never disturbing more than he needed to. And then, little bigger than my thumb, and almost invisible against the green blades of grass, was a tiny yellow seahorse, curled like a question mark in the water.
We found several more that morning, some with rust-coloured stripes, others barely visible in pale brown. The experience was surprisingly moving. No nets, no tanks, just us in the water, and these tiny miracles of evolution. In a world that sometimes moves too fast, this was something else entirely: slow, intentional, respectful.
From snorkelling in the Bazaruto Marine Park with dugongs and dolphins, to sailing trips on traditional dhow boats, bird watching at one of the inland lagoons, horseback rides along the beach, kite surfing, and guided walks through the local market in town, there is so much to do here. Or you can do nothing at all, which is its own kind of luxury. I found myself spending long mornings just watching the light change over the water, listening to the distant chatter of the fishermen drawing in their nets on the beach. The pace of Vilanculos is slow, and Saudade leans into that rhythm.
What surprised me most was how quickly Saudade started to feel like home. There’s a warmth in the staff that goes beyond hospitality; they remember how you take your coffee, they anticipate when you want a quiet hour, or when you’re ready for another G&T. It’s discreet but personal, like staying with a friend who has exquisite taste.
On my final morning, I woke early. The ocean was glass-still, and the sky barely pink. I didn’t want to leave, and that, I realised, was the feeling of Saudade, the feeling of missing something, before it’s even gone.
Tell me more about Saudade in Mozambique
Saudade, Vilanculos, Mozambique
T: +27 82 563 4817
How to get to Saudade
Airlink operates daily direct scheduled flights between Johannesburg, South Africa and Vilanculos, Mozambique. https://www.flyairlink.com/en-zm/flights-to-vilanculos
Rates – (All rates are full board)
Rates range from £500/$675 – £750/$1.015 (per person for single occupancy) to £335/$450 – £500/$675 (per person for double occupancy).
