Lynne Coates stays at The Cavendish at Baslow and enjoys a Chatsworth Escape in the glorious Peak District of Derbyshire.
The peacocks may have taken off a long time ago, but the Cavendish at Baslow is flying high on its many awards, and I can quite see why after my recent stay.
‘It’s the Peacock Inn’, announces my husband, as we sit in the lounge enjoying a delicious lunch of assorted finger sandwiches. Childhood memories of afternoon teas with his parents, when peacocks roamed the gardens, come flooding back. Acquired by the Cavendish family (later the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire) in the 1830’s, the hotel was rebuilt in the 1970’s and renamed the Cavendish.
Having recently undergone a complete refurbishment, led by the renowned interior designer, Nicola Harding, working closely with the present chatelaine, the Countess of Burlington, the décor now tastefully connects the past with the present. The connection to Chatsworth is in evidence throughout the hotel, with art and artefacts from the estate, together with the Devonshire family’s personal mementos, books and photographs.
The artwork is particularly interesting with both historic and contemporary works. I am drawn to the black and white photographs in the lounge, by the acclaimed photographer, Jorge Lewinski, who, unusually, documented other artists at work in their studios. Lewinski became a lecturer in photography, and Lord Burlington was one of his students.
The staff at the Cavendish are delightful, and, after a warm welcome, we check into our room. Each room is named after a person with some connection to the Chatsworth estate. Ours is called “Compton” after a member of the family. Emanating a perfect blend of country styling, with a fireplace, comfy armchairs and a deliciously inviting bed, it’s a room that begs you to stay and relax.
I love the combination of quirky touches – an old telephone, antique tables, and an elegant, traditional-style bathroom with soft aqua- coloured tiles and walls. But most impressive is the inspiring view over the Chatsworth landscape, particularly in the morning when the mist rises over the peaks, before giving way to the sunrise.
After a delicious, impeccably served, breakfast in the Gallery Restaurant, we set off to explore. From the hotel, a path leads us directly into the park, and entrance tickets to Chatsworth House are included with our stay at the Cavendish.
A herd of deer graze nearby as we meander through the park, with almost one thousand acres of parkland to roam, they are unperturbed by visitors. You can’t fail to be impressed by the magnificence of Chatsworth House. The estate, originally acquired by the Cavendish family in 1549, passed through many generations. In 2018, the house underwent a £32.7 million restoration project, overseen by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire.
In 2023 they passed the estate to their son and daughter-in-law, Lord and Lady Burlington. Since 1981 the house has been run as Chatsworth House Trust, a registered charity, with an expanding programme of exhibitions, events and learning activities.
The current exhibition, imaginatively titled ‘The Gorgeous Nothings’, is dedicated to flowers and horticulture, exploring the relationship that plants have had with the house and gardens. A tour of the house begins in the Painted Hall with its captivating murals and grand staircase. We are enthralled by the history of the wood-panelled Oak Room and the state bedchamber with its sumptuous ornate furnishings.
Unlike many historic houses, Chatsworth has integrated some contemporary art and design, such as the Mirrored Gallery, an astonishing installation of glazed blocks, based on the mitochondrial DNA of the 12th Duke and Duchess and their son and daughter-in-law – an extraordinary concept. Mirrors are designed so that visitors can view their own unique likeness reflected in a portrait, certainly thought provoking.
Outside, the curated gardens are spectacular. A farmyard with animals and an adventure playground keep the children happy. Of course there is a gift shop, and Chatsworth packaging is pretty impressive. I am tempted by a lavender and lemongrass scented candle. Most importantly, there are alfresco cafés with good coffee, restaurants, and (I can confirm) the Carriage House café serves delicious cakes.
Booked into the Cavendish Garden Room restaurant, we are looking forward to dinner. The cheese souffle is divine and his Chatsworth gold beer-battered haddock and chips exceeded Whitby’s best. My sea bass is perfectly perched on new potatoes and wilted spinach. We gallantly share a generous portion of apple crumble and custard (it would be rude not to), after which we heave ourselves back up to our cosy bedroom, the effects of country air and delicious food ensuring we enjoy a good night’s sleep.
The location of the Cavendish at Baslow means guests have direct access to many of the Peak District’s glorious hiking and cycling routes. The hotel has a helpful guide-book of local walks with routes clearly indicating distance, elevation, and difficulty levels. If you want to travel around the area, nearby Monsal Head has breath-taking views over the Hope Valley and the edge of Kinder Scout.
The Monsal Trail follows a route through some of the most spectacular scenery. For those seeking a longer walk, follow the Derwent Valley Heritage Way from Ladybower Reservoir to Shardlow, and see some of the Peak District’s most famous heritage sights. Don’t miss the nearby town of Bakewell, worth a visit for those wonderful puddings and tarts.
The Cavendish at Baslow deserves its many awards (recently voted the UK ‘Hotel of the Year’ by The Times and The Sunday Times), for its perfect combination of understated luxury, charming staff, wonderful food, and picturesque location. As one of the hotel’s wonderfully quirky art installations by Jeremy Deller tells us, ‘You Treat this place like a hotel’. We leave the Cavendish with a contented smile.
Tell me more about the Cavendish at Baslow and Chatsworth Escapes
The Cavendish at Baslow. Church Lane, Baslow, Bakewell DE45 1SP
T: +44 (0) 1246 582311 reception@cavendishbaslow.co.uk
Prices based on cosy double, Bed and Breakfast from £290 Dinner, bed and breakfast from £436. Various packages are offered, which include entrance to Chatsworth House. The Cavendish is one of several hospitality businesses, including inns, boltholes and shepherd’s huts in and around the Chatsworth Estate.
